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Pipe dope makes a mess. I hate that stuff. But on BST sometimes it actually works better than teflon tape... Anyway. it's not a big deal to change out the pressure switch. Pull the alternator off for more access (2 12mm bolts), then take the sensor out. I think it's about a 24mm, or just use vicegrips or a pipe wrench on it.

When I install taper thread stuff like this, there are two important things to keep it from leaking. CLEAN THE THREADS!! Probably the most important thing. Taper threads rely on a good seal to keep from leaking. Wire brush the threads on the sensor, and get a wire brush thing for cleaning the threads in the engine. Then I always use teflon tape on the threads, make sure you put it on the correct way so the tape doesn't peel off as you install it. I have replaced many many many temp and oil senders on boats, and a few on my cars this way. None of them have ever leaked. And, if the threads are clean you technically don't need any tape at all. The oil pressure switch and one of the temp senors on my car don't have tape because I didn't have any on hand. With nice clean threads on install, no leaks.

That's awesome! I love those. Is it logbooked?

Have you checked that the engine, transmission, and pitch stopper mount bolts are tight? I had a weird clunk and drivetrain shake on my car. Turned out the engine mount nuts were booth a few threads loose. Not sure how that happened, but it solved the problem.

You can go ever further and make a PWM motor controller to basically give you a DCCD... I'm looking into exactly how I'd do that, but it's definitely possible.

The way the solenoid works is this. If you give it full power it will be FWD. This is what the FWD fuse does. If you give it no power it locks in 4wd, essentially. So yes, you could just have a switch to remove power from the solenoid. The issue with doing that though, is it upsets the transmission computer. Suddenly it can't find the solenoid and puts the computer into limp mode. That's why you have to add a dummy load to make the computer "think" it's commanding the solenoid, when in fact it's just giving power to a resistor pack. It's weird it's not working well in the snow though, have you verified that the transmission is actually sending power to the back wheels at all? You can either jack one side of the car up (right wheels on the ground, left wheels off the ground). Then both a front and back wheel should turn. You can also unplug the harness connectors going to the transmission. This will put it in limp mode, meaning locked in 3rd gear and locked center clutches. Do some tight turns on pavement, if you feel it binding up, you know the clutches are locking. Over time and age the clutches can wear out and not grab, which might be what's causing your awd to suck. It might be broken.

For a return spring just go to the hardware store and get a spring that's the right length. That's what I did.

This is why I only want the heads... Even so, it would be expensive.

I want the heads to stuff onto a 2.5 block. I'd take the whole thing at that price, but I'm too far away to ship an engine.

What about just the heads off the dual port EJ22?

Ya, but I built mine out of spare bits and pieces because I'm poor. So I can't afford fancy gas. Anyway, back on topic. Has anyone found evidence that running a step or two colder plugs is better with this motor because it makes more heat? Just thought about that, wondering if anyone has tried it with any quantifiable results.

But in a pinch I don't think it's going to hurt the engine. Especially if you don't drive with your foot to the floor all the time.

My understanding is if you run regular gas the knock sensor will take care of it. I actually got done putting one of these together at about 11.00 last night... Junk block with 240k + single port heads.. Just threw together parts I had laying around because my car needed an engine. The car had sat for about 5 months with regular gas in it, and it ran just fine on the test ride.

AH! Good point, ya. Carrier should work both ways. Otherwise you couldn't reverse...

Are you talking about the fuel injector? The thing under the intake boot? Try jumping a wire directly to the spade terminal on the starter. That'll rule out if it's a starter issue or a wiring issue.

If it's for a front diff, doesn't that mean the gears are cut the wrong way to put it in a rear diff? Or does the front driveshaft spin backwards?

2.5 head gaskets, and everything else for the 2.2. Intake gaskets, timing belt, etc. You can just bolt the heads right on. It's interference because the piston design, not the head.

It's most likely an ignition issue. Check your distributor cap. I had a cracked one that was letting moisture in and caused misfires. Check for your plug wires if they're chafing anywhere. Check the plug boots aren't cracked or dry rotted. You can take a spray bottle with water in it and mist over all the ignition components. If spark is leaking out of a chaffed cable you'll see little blue arcs jumping out. Best if done in the dark so you can see it.

This link is for an impreza, so the wire colours will probably be different. But it's essentially the same transmission. http://www.rs25.com/forums/f8/t99075-4eat-diff-lock-switch-handbrake-mod-torquemada-lite.html

Do you get a loud CLICK from the stater itself? This would indicate the contacts are probably bad. You can also try taking a jumper wire from the battery to the spade terminal on the starter that powers the solenoid. On my GL I was having a problem where it wasn't getting enough juice from the switch. I don't know why, I tried three ignition switches and two different starters. I finally just set up a relay to give direct battery current to the starter when I turned the key, and it hasn't had a problem since.

Not a dual range? That's what I have, so I'm not sure the dip stick is the same length between the two.

I don't really know... I took it apart, cleaned all the grit out, and put it back together again. And it just worked... The actuator always worked, it made noise and the lock by the handle made a feeble attempt to move. It must just have been gummed up.

Throw a C-clamp in your tool bag. Thats what I use to compress the tensioner. You're supposed to compress them in the upright position (the new style, at least). So I can't just put it in the vice.

The other adjuster is for the lock. The outside door handle hooks directly to the open mechanism. You could probably get in there and fix it though, just not as easily. Maybe they did, I dunno. I didn't notice it until it stopped working But it's been a while. They used to be so that if you pulled the handle and pushed on the door with some force they'd open, then it took more like a hip check to open them. Then they just stopped. So it's definitely been getting worse. The only reason I took the door card off in the first place is because the back driver's side power lock stopped locking. I use that door for throwing my crap, so I like it working right. Turned out that was a simple fix, but then I saw how easy the door handle was too.

Those are friggin side draft motorcycle carbs! that's awesome!