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It will be very drivable. My GL is fine. I drove it from Maine to North carolina. Then back. That's all highway, and it did fine. There are some writeups for ea tranny into ej car. It boils down to something like Custom axles, or swap stubs in transmission Custom crossmember re-drilled flywheel adapter plate custom driveline And then you have to get the dual range shift linkage to fit properly in your car.

If there's a problem with the ignition circuit just add a relay under the hood. When you turn the key have the relay switch direct battery power to the solenoid. I had to do that in my GL because for some reason it wasn't getting enough power from the ignition to always work.

Since you don't get any clicking or anything, it sounds like the electromagnet that moves the plunger doesn't work. Even when the contacts go bad you stick get a distinct CLICK when you turn the key. So first thing I'd check is take a dead starter and see if there's any continuity from ground to the little spade connecter to the coil. If there isn't, it's somehow frying that. Maybe the ignition is always supplying a little bit of power to the coil which overheats it over time and fries the little wires.

It doesn't look big enough, probably 4x100 or 4x114, or whatever the other common size is.

The expensive ones are crap too. I've been through a lot of them.

What I usually do when I have a bunch of codes is write them down, then clear all the codes. As soon as the light comes back on, check it. It'll probably only be one or two codes, not a whole slew. Then work on fixing those first. Often times one problem will cause more than one code, but generally you won't get all the codes at the same time. So as soon as you see the computer is upset, figure out why. These older cars aren't as picky about it, but for example on the Legacy a bad O2 sensor can cause O2 code, rich condition, misfire, cat efficiency, etc, etc. The longer you have a problem the more codes it's likely to throw.

Some pics of that showed up in AI a couple months ago. I was wondering if it belonged to someone on here.

My GL has 26.5" tires, and turns about 3000 at 70 on the highway.

Well, obviously I'll see performance and mileage gain with a new sensor because mine is pretty much dead. But, my reasoning on the three-wire was this. The cat probably doesn't work anymore, if it's not already gutted. The cat usually runs at a pretty high temperature so it keeps the O2 pretty warm, but with the cat not working, the sensor won't be as hot. I thought that could cause some performance reduction in the sensor. If I'm wrong, I'll just get a one-wire because they're cheaper...

Ahh, I forgot yours isn't an outback. My 98 LGT doesn't have a speed govener. And they changed the speedo from 140 to 120 (for some reason). I don't actually know how fast it goes. **** TESTED ON A CLOSED TRACK OF COURSE **** It goes WAAAY faster than 120... The speedo needle goes down to where the warning lights are.... My 96 legacy L was governed to 112, though.

I need to replace the O2 sensor on my 89 spfi and I'm wondering what three-wire sensor will work? Can I just use one for a Legacy? Yes, I know it's a one-wire in there, I want to convert.

If you're looking for a dual range, you don't want an RX transmission. They have 3.7 diffs and the low range isn't as low. I want to say 1.2:1. The GL dual range is 3.9 diffs and 1.59:1 low range, much better.

In that case, the wrx shouldn't be wrb anymore either because subaru hasn't been in it for a few years...

My legacy has the same 4.44 auto your car has. With 205/55/16 tires it shifts from 3rd to 4th at redline at almost exactly 100mph.

Doncha love being able to weld up your exhaust And anything else you break, for that matter.

Why get rid of the 5 lug stuff?? I'll take it...

I already said it's not a vacuum leak. It's a newish boot on there that I know doesn't leak. I've swapped MAFs, etc. I know it's not that. Besides, why would it go away when I reset the computer and did nothing else if it was a vacuum leak. It's not because it's an auto computer in a manual. It used to work fine. So that's not the problem. I don't see why cutting it's power all the time would upset it. It's not like this computer is some fancy bit of high end engineering with super duper adaptive tuning. It's an ancient 8-bit computer designed in the 80's. I'm glad you found your problem... Anyone have a good theory as to what's going on? PS. My car isn't a ford focus.

That's a completely totally different car than I'm talking about here.... Clean your IACV, make the vacuum leaks go away. Make sure it's OEM wires and NGK plugs... Your alarm system is probably draining the battery.... I kindly suggest you start a thread in the new gen forum with your specific problems. On a related note. My car has been working perfectly for the last 2 days... Hopefully it stays, but I doubt it will. I don't see a problem switching the constant 12v to the computer to ignition... I might just do that.

So I went in to pick it up today, the (slightly incompetent) parts counter guy was all proud he'd found and ordered me the right part. I said it's too small.... Owner puts the number in the computer, Justy part... So no, napa still doesn't have these

Hmm, a possibility. I'll check the resistance chart for temp values. And tonight I'll put it in a pot of water with my digital temp probe. See if it matches up. I have a spare one somewhere. If I can find it, I can compare the two.

I know there are a million idle issue threads. But none of them seemed to fit my idle issue... Here's what goes on. 89 GL. Manual swapped from an auto. The computer always has codes 33, 34, and 35. It's had them since I have owned the car, and it has always worked fine. Goes from high idle nicely down to 700 or 800 rpms. But in the last 3 months, it's started not idling down. It'll stick at maybe 1500 RPMs, sometimes just over 1000. It's annoying as hell. When it first started doing this I checked all the vacuum stuff. Even plugged all of the hoses off so it wasn't possible any air was leaking into the intake. Pulled tho IACV off and cleaned it. Nothing is stuck or leaking. The timing is good, disty is good, rotor is good, cap is good, wires are good, plugs are new. It's nothing there. BUT if I disconnect the computer, and re-connect it, it works perfectly for about a week. Then starts acting up and doesn't stop till I disconnect the computer. It's been three months of this now, so enough data to show it isn't something else, and that was a one time random fix. This points to a computer problem (in my mind), something in the RAM is getting corrupt and screwing up the idle. But everyone says these computers never fail.... Did my computer fail? heh... What if I just hook the constant 12v up to ignition so it's off when the car is off...?

How could it possibly work with the head on the wrong side? wouldn't it be upside down...?

I remove the 10mm bolt that holds the inner end of the control arm on the car. No dicking with the ball joint that way. And it gives plenty of room to get the axle in and out.

Personally, I'd just get a used one. They don't fail very often. If you pull your own from a yard make sure there's no play in the joints and you should be fine.

It's a bunch easier on the Legacy, because that's plastic lesnes, not glas.