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you're on NES. Look at Dave (URABUS) legacy. He did that and put projectors in it. Looks amazing!

I'll link you to the post on rs25.com, because it's a great writeup. http://www.rs25.com/forums/f8/t99075-4eat-diff-lock-switch-handbrake-mod-torquemada-lite.html

I have it written down on my shop computer. I've spent way to much time in there today, so tomorrow when I'm finishing some stuff up I'll post it up here.

The SVX isn't supposed to handle like a WRX... It wasn't designed to be a track monster. It was designed to be a nice big luxurious touring car. Which it does an amazing job of doing. To keep on topic. Put a much better d/r in my car today. Never done a tranny swap before. Went pretty smooth.

If the cone washer comment is aimed at me, I have brand new ones in there. The washer was all messed up, napa sells them for $5 or something. Also, my other axle (replaced both at the same time) has been spewing grease out of the DOJ. The boot isn't sealed properly to the cup. And yes I was very careful of the boots when I installed the axle, I know they're delicate.

What kind of axle is it? If it's an aftermarket one it's probably just bad out of the box and clicking. I put in an aftermarket axle about 5000 miles ago on my car. It's clicked since the minute I put it in there. They're junk. This one was a new napa maxdrive one.

I don't take the caliper and rotor off. I leave the parking brake on to hold the rotor in place, then remove the four bolts that hold the rotor to the hub and pull the hub off. Leaving the rotor held in place by the parking brake. I suppose it doesn't REALLY batter which way you do it.. just a different method.

Damn you give me SVX envy... That's a sweet car.

It's looking good in that picture! Keep going with it! Trans swap isn't THAT hard, those are good cars.

I think the outback is the only one that got the stupidly short 5th gear. They had a valid point, but it was just too short. I had a legacy with ej22 and 3.90 gears, it was a total dog. I think 4.11s would have been much better with that same gearset (which is everything besides OBW transmission). The other oddity... if you get a 94 impreza awd box, it's 4.11 but has weird gear ratios.

Looking at the gear ratio charts, it looks like the FXT box has a pretty sweet 5th gear on the highway. It actually doesn't... It has to have that long gear with the 4.44 diffs, but in reality the final drive on 5th gear ends up lower than on a 4.11. My friend with the 2.5rs us turning like 3800 at 70 on the highway...

That wouldn't work.

What I'm saying is, your only option for a 4.44 5speed is a Forester XT transmission. Those are VERY expensive. Or a custom setup, which is also doable. But highway is gonna suck without the shorter 5th gear, highway sucks anyway on the FXT box. I have a friend who put one in an RS. So I know about the swap.

Why would you need 4.44 diffs for a 5speed swap?! The only 5speed with 4.44 diffs is the forester XT box. You're not going to find one of those cheap, nor do you really want that. Most transmissions are 4.11, a lot are 3.90, but the majority in your year range are going to be 4.11. Which is good for you, you don't need to deal with the rear end.

One of the funniest things I've seen in a while. That's awesome :lol::D:D

You can download the FSM and see it all there. That's what I have. I think there's a post about it in the USRM.

The FSM details band adjustment pretty well, better than I can explain. I just followed the diag. flow chart step by step, and adjusted it accordingly. I didn't check to see if it detailed reverse as mine worked properly.

That's weird about reverse. Try tightening the reverse band. I know you can tighten the forward ones from the top (without taking apart the transmission any). But not sure about reverse. It's a tedious process that if you mess it up your transmission falls apart inside... But it made mine work better.

If you park it with the defrost working... does it work in the morning?

Have you tried changing the fluid and filter yet? That cleared mine up, it had hard shifting, occasional torque bind, occasional not RWD, etc. New fluid made it much happier.

You don't NEED an ECU. It will work with the automatic one. I've used auto in a manual car, and manual in an auto car. The tuning is slightly different, but it'll work just fine. I have everything besides pedal box and driveshaft for the swap.... go on a road trip. haha.

You need a bunch more than just the transmission for that swap. I have one in Maine.... come get it

Compression test won't tell you anything about the headgasket. See if you get another bubble, if it smells like exhaust. Or just do an exhaust in coolant test.

Just grab a hand full of snow and use it to clean the lights off. Its the easiest most effective way. Your hands won't get cold because you carry gloves in your car at all times. If you drive where it gets below freezing and DON'T have a resident pair of gloves in your car, you're an idiot. Get some cheap leather gloves now.

RainX helps a bit. Most of it for me is crappy road grit that gets thrown up off cars infront of me. If I'm driving from the city back home, when I get off the highway I stop at a gas station and clear off my headlights and driving lights for the rural roads home. Keeping a longer following distance is probably the number one thing you can do to keep road grit off your lights.