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The only problem I see backflushing it like that, any gunk that comes out of the heater core goes into the engine and radiator.

I'd drive an EA over a land cruiser in a blizzard too

That makes me feel better... I always put anti-seize on my threads. I have pugs, and can't afford to strip one of those stupid nuts out...

The snow has been decent here... been practicing my LFB.

While we're on the topic here. Why do you suggest not to put anti-seize on the lug nuts?

You have to take the whole clutch pedal off the replace the cable on a GL? I had this happen on a legacy. It was the middle of winter. It only took about 15 minutes to replace. It's really not a big deal.

The first one you posted looks like a ridged industries product. They're really good lights. I've never actually used them on cars, but I've used them a bunch marine applications. They're absolutely amazing. Draw a fraction of halogens, and have the same output. I have been really impressed with them. They have lexan lenses with a lifetime warranty too, and if they stand up to salt water, they'll do well on a car. I don't know any alternative though. Not one that's any good, at least. I've done a lot with LEDs on boats (because ofter power consumption is very important), and you get what you pay for. The cheap ones are dim, have poor beams, and burn out quickly, or get dimmer.

Traded some fozzy XT wheels for a dual range! Thanks bratman. I'll throw that in my GL and rebuild it's old tired tranny. I want to put the xt tailshaft on so I have 4wd/awd(ish). I know it's not real awd, but when I step on the gas on the road it'll still use the whole drivetrain instead of just the front axles. This will be good with a (someday) ej22 swap.

Looks like someone has cold hands from hooking up that tow strap...

Ya gotta do what ya gotta do! Sometimes it's not always the correct way, but if it gets your butt to work, who's to argue?

Why don't you just let the engine warm up for a minute? It's not good to fire it up frozen cold engine at 18 degrees and cruise off anyway.

Thanks very much for the post! I screwed up a trailer wheel bearing once by being too harsh putting the race in. I think I used the bearing to drive the race back into the hub... I figured it was all hardened metal, so how could I hurt anything. This is when I learned that bearings aren't made out of unobtanium. Needless to say, I replaced it again a few hundred miles later when it started making noises. What's funny?

Haha, that guy is funny and has some really good tips! Thanks for the link.

That's actually exactly what I usually do. I usually take two hammers and put the claw on the nut and yank it through. Two hammers across from each other pull it through nice and evenly. I just sort of figured this out because I needed to think up a way to get it through... I think I have a picture of doing that in my rear wheel bearing thread, actually. But this one was unconditionally tight. Is it acceptable to sand paper down the axle a little to clearance it better to fit through the bearings? At this point I don't care so much about the axle in the car or bearings in the car now, just curious about how to treat bearings in general. I know they're more delicate than people usually make out, and you seem to know A LOT about bearings.

You clearly gave the wrong answer, because you should have said "YES, of course I need them"

I didn't beat on anything with hammers, I made a series of die type things so I could use the nut to pull the axle through the bearings, but it was waaay tighter than I'd have liked. I didn't beat on the bearings to install them either, I found out that a 2" sched 40 PVC adapter fit the outer race perfectly. They went in pretty smooth with that. But in this case, how would you have put the axle through? Just used a different one? What is the proper way?

Hmm, some interesting food for thought there. Especially about welding in tight spaces thing. I hadn't really thought about that too much, but it's something I get into somewhat often. With cars it's often a lot faster to weld stuff in place, even though it's a bit tight. So that may be something I should consider. MIG sounds like it's better for some of everything, TIG sounds like it's more for precision stuff that has to be perfect and beautiful, rather than structural and fast. I worked on a boat in a welding shop for about 3 months (I was doing boat systems, electronics, etc. Not welding) but being in the shop I talked to the guys on break, etc. They were pretty much doing all aluminum with huge TIG machines. He swore by it, but he could also butt weld coke cans perfectly, and make stick welds look damn near perfect... I tried my hand at TIG and sucked bad... Sounds like for welding up rusty cars MIG might be best.

Thank you very much for your input! when I saw it advertised as only weighing 15lbs I was shocked! The duty cycle makes sense, I probably only weld 30 seconds to a minute at a time anyway. Do you agree that in general TIG has better results than MIG does? I like the concept better, and don't see why I can't learn how to do it as well as I can MIG.

I'm looking for some education on welders so I can find one that'll meet my needs. I'm decent with flux-core mig, but I need something better. I've been looking at TIG welders, but don't know what to look for. I found a fan cooled inverter welder on craigslist, but is that what I want? It's the THERMAL ARC 95S Inverter welder. I know with the fan cooled ones there's something about duty cycle, but what exactly does that mean? Does it mean it needs to "take a break" to not overheat? And what about being inverter? Seems I've heard mixed stuff about those. Thanks for any input

Front 6speed axles will fit in a female 5speed, and vice versa. I have some friends who've done the swap, and their turbo axles fit in the 6speed Not to say the 6mt ones aren't heavier, just that they'll interchange. Dunno if they'll fit on the n/a boxes though...

I've had them going in tight before. But this was ridiculous. It's a pretty new axle too, only 2000 miles maybe. So it was nice and shiny.

So I put a new wheel bearing in the front of my 89GL. Getting the axle through was REALLLLY tight. Like serious amazing abuse needed. The new bearings went in pretty well, and all that. But why is the axle so amazingly tight?

Because a 12T harbor freight jack stand is actually only good for 3...?

I love that it drove off after the rollover. Sad to see it destroyed though... was probably rusted to death anyway :-\

For temporary purpose, put the hose to the front washers on the rear pump. Then at least you'll have washers when it gets snowy and nasty out.