BlueSteel

haha well done phiz i like the twagon as alimo heres the rest of the pics for u photochop people (and yes camera phone) http://soob.johnnysmultimedia.com/slideshow/twagon-17s/index.html

reasonably easy fix there are bars that run across the roof that have a few blobs of glue to hold them onto the roof more than likely these have come unglued just run some sikaflex all along them and make sure they are well stuck and you wont have the problem again. if you want to go further, cover the roof with dynamat after glueing the bars back on and you wont even hear the rain on the roof anymore

cool idea... but im not sure how it will be too effective if say you have your front right wheel off the ground with an open centre diff, it will spin and you will not get drive to any wheels you pull the front handbrake on so now both front wheels are locked up, now the back wheels have to try to push the front wheel untill the other one makes contact with the ground and you can drive all 4 again be creative matt... 4 levers ftw u will have 4 cables already running there anyways or theres always a much heavier centre lsd to put in which still should be able to give you some drive to front and rear another thought... those rwd spools for the ej boxes... do they actually convert it to rwd, or just lock the centre diff solid? you could do the welded trick and remove axles for on road driving.

well you already have 2 brake cables running right up to the handbrake lever all you need to do is bolt in a second lever and join the left cable to the left lever, and the right cable to the right lever. sweet82 could you please post a pic of the joiner you used to attach the cable to the lever (ive been meaning to do this for agers)

most aftermarket alarms come with outputs for central locking so you will just need to buy an actuator master/slave dosent really matter

i have a feeling they were falcon XD castor rods? few boys on ausubaru have used em however im currently running 24mm HT threaded rod ground flat at the lower control arm end, gives me as much adjustment as i could possibly use im also runing L series lower control arms i did a quick search, found this post http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4369&highlight=falcon

is there any chance there is a crack/hole in the head between oil galleries and the exhaust eg; after the combustion chamber but before the exhaust im not really 100% into how these engines work... just throwing possibilities at you

ive used a heap of dynamat, it works really well but ive heard a lot of good things about raamat. people over here (in aussie) are importing it and still coming out cheaper than dynamat with just as good results

okay... suspension. you can use the front suspension if you, put the ea81 strut tops on the ea82t struts, use the ea82t steering knuckle and brakes, use the ea82t lower control arm, ea82t driveshaft this will space the bottom of your wheels out a bit and get you some proper camber on the front you can also use the ea82t real coilovers if you make up a new bracket for the top mount of them Brakes. The rear disk brakes should basically bolt on, use the ea8t2 backing plates, disc rotor, hub, caliper and brake lines if using the front ea82t susp then the brakes will bolt on too you can also use the brake booster and master cylinder from the ea82t, but it will involve massaging the strut towers with a BFH to get it in transmission. when fitting the 5 speed you will need to make up a gearbox crossmember to suit the gearbox and with any luck (mine did) the ea82t 2 peice tailshaft will fit in and yes the lsd will bolt straight in happy modding

+1 for GD get out a multimeter or test light and try the different pins on the plug coming off the gearbox till you find the reverse switch wire, swap it over and will all be good

ive tried this on 2 cars... i which had slight lifter tick every now and then, but it was doing it at the time i added about 500mls of ATF and about 500mls of Deisel Fuel into the engine oil drove around for a couple days that freed up the lifters and stayed good the second soob had the nosiest lifters i had ever heard thought it was going to rattle itself to death added about 300mls of ATF and about 400mls of Deisel Fuel ran it idling for about half an hour and it didnt seem to help at all couple days later came back to the car and started it upn and it started noise and a couple minutes was as quiet as the day it was made! hasnt made a noise since

was just looking through my parts for something, when i saw... an ea81 door map pocket would make a beautiful hood scoop...and has subaru stamped on it sorry cant get pics, camera died

wheel bearings are pretty easy.. did 2 of them a couple nights ago undo the wheel and axle nuts jack the front of the car up undo the hub bolts undo the brake caliper bolts remove the hub and disc and caliper punch out the roll pin from the inner cv cup remove the inner lower control arm bolt undo the swaybar bushing pull the steering knuckle/lower control arm out so the cv comes off the gearbox with a soft hammer/punch knock the axle towards the engine so it comes out of the steering knuckle with a punch/drift and hammer knock the inner bearing from the outside, go round the bearing till it pops out (the seal will come out with it) there should be a metal spacer in the middle, pull this out from the inside knock the outer bearing out of the steering knuckle clean all the old grease out, fill the new bearings up with some fresh grease installation is reverse of the above be careful with the new bearings tho, only hit the outside ring of the bearing as when you hit the inner it puts stress on the bearings which will shorten their life span or ruin them altogether cheers bluesteel

the stock speakers in the soobs are wired in with a common ground system eg; the front and rear on the same side share the same wire for ground most new cd players cant handle this and you will need to at least run new speaker wire for the front OR rear but you might as well rewire them all with some good quality speaker wire

the crank handle was a bit difficult.... i made a whole new door card out off 3mm plywood and trimmed it with some foam and vinyl, so this made the whole lot about 10mm thick at the widest bits. so the stock crank handles wouldnt fit it is just a standard aftermarket chrome crank handle and they come with a bunch of different adapters i joined the splined adapter that fit to one of the other adaptors (just drilled and tappes and bolted them together) to get the handle spaced out so they clear the rest of the door ended up working and looking pretty good http://soob.johnnysmultimedia.com theres some more stuff on there if you want a look

i had 2 x 6.5" splits in my front doors and 2 x 10" subs where the rear seats go i used to do a lot of camping, so was better to sleep on this way... longer flat space hope that helps or gives you some ideas

thats the only pic i got of mine b4 the camera died 15" on the side and it only sticks out as far as the wheel arches so dont really lose much useable space in the back

i even have a spare set sittin in my shed for an MY wagon (non retractable) ive only seen retractable ones for the L series or later, but i spose that dosent mean they dont exist for the earlier ones

the full article is in this thread http://ausubaru.com/main/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=3033&highlight=

Ball Tearer Brumby lifted from AutoSpeed Magazine http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_2970/article.html One of Australia's most impressive AWD drag machines - and probably the world's best Brumby! World's fastest Subaru Brumby? 2.4-litre EJ-series four Currently 498hp (372kW) at all fours Soon into the 9s Immaculately presented Occasionally street driven! The engine comprises a 2.2-litre EJ-series block with a 2.4-litre aftermarket stroker kit, forged pistons and rods and modified DOHC heads. Oversize valves and custom cams give extra breathing capacity. The engine is built with an aftermarket stud kit and all the good bits you’d expect in a drag motor. A PWR aluminium radiator and Davies Craig 10 inch thermo fan keep it running cool. An off-the-shelf exhaust manifold and custom up-pipe connect a Garrett GT35/40 turbo combined with a 42mm external gate. With boost set to a max of around 25 psi, the heated charge air is chilled by a PWR barrel-style water-to-air intercooler. Interestingly, the water lines for the water-to-air ‘cooler pass through an esky which is mounted behind the cabin - Nathan throws in a couple of bags of ice to help reduce peak intake air temps from around 45 to 10 degrees Celsius. Stainless plumbing routes through the engine bay and a single TurboSmart blow-off valve is installed. The intake to the turbo comprises a large pod filter on the end of a mandrel bent length of tube while exhaust gasses exit via a 3 ½ inch system with twin 3 ½ inch straight-through mufflers. Interestingly, the engine runs a custom intake manifold that – while it appears similar to the stocker – provides perfectly even length runners and a custom plenum volume. A big-bore billet throttle ensures there’s plenty of airflow into the intake manifold. Controlling the fuel and ignition systems is a MoTeC M400 programmable ECU with data logging and various other options ‘unlocked’. Rochester 1000cc injectors suckle from custom rails teamed with an AEM pressure regulator and you’ll find large diameter braided lines extending back to the Magnafuel pump teamed with twin Bosch 044s pumps. A custom alloy fuel tank (with extensive internal baffling) is mounted under the tray. The CDI ignition system is controlled by the MoTeC and Mercury Marine ignitors are employed. Tuning (and much of the drag setup) has been performed by the experienced team at Advanced Performance Centre is Brisbane.

if yer going shiny black, its gotta all be black and chrome. not a fan of the red under the trim, but the black and chrome would be sweet. till it comes time to clean it anyways

you can use a punch to turn the 2 break off bolts on the top undone just hit straight down on the edge of the bolt to make a hole to get some grip on, then chase the bolt head around to undo it once you get half a turn or so.. you can probably undo the rest with your finger just replace the lock with a new one or get it fixed at a locksmith hopefully its just something jammed in there and will fall out when u turn it upside down (happened to me)

when i was looking for driveshafts to fit an RX AWD box with 25 spline output shafts i found you can get inner DOJ with 25 spline to gearbox and 25 spline to axle inner DOJ with 25 spline to gearbox and 23 spline to axle axle with 25 spline inner and 25 spline outer axle with 25 spline inner and 23 spline outer outer CV with 25 spline to axle outer CV with 23 spline to axle so basically any combination you can think of is out there, but actually finding out which configuration comes off witch car.. good luck! i think a lot of it depends on the manufacturer of the driveshaft happy hunting Bluesteel

i havent actually done one, but im pretty sure. the ea8t is a wider engine than the ea81 you will need to cut and shut the chassis rails to squeeze it in what i have done is an ej22 sohc in a my wagon (same engine bay) apart from woring was basically a bolt in thing will need to have an adapter plate to fit the gearbox to the motor and modify the gearbox crossmember for the 5 speed and the linkages