xbeerd

made a plate to lower my rear dif after the previously mentioned spring/shock install. i wanna make some spacers for the suspension tube to correct my camber, HOWEVER, 3 bolts on the drivers side will NOT come free. i even had a hard time drilling them out last time when i replaced the tube. so hard i quit and just didnt replace that bushing.

Said he got it from an old Tercel. was it the sr5 or all trac or something i would guess.

i put new 4runner shocks (kyb kg9025) and moog springs (cc-248) on the car today. got free lift! but need to drop the dif now. lol. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=133609

i hope you are right about the driveshaft. that'd be cool, i've always been told you need a custom drive shaft, or i guess you could cut a drive shaft in half, sleeve it and weld it up and hope you are as good a welder as you think you are? LOL

I thought i would put this in a thread since i could never find what i was looking for when searching for the stuff on this topic.) *NOTE: my car has 2" lift already installed* Parts list: Shock: KYB Gas-A-Just KB9025 (part is found under 'Yota 4runner on Rockauto) Spring: Moog CC-248 (used in older Honda Accords, Google search the part lists for 86-89) Coil Spring Dimensions from Moog End 1 Type: Square End 2 Type: Tangential Inside Diameter: 2.5" Bar Diameter .5" Install Height: 9" Load: 1100 Spring Rate: 279 Free Height: 12.88" SPRING: The spring in its full size extends to the very end of the shock. tried to compress it to fit the shock by using my HF spring compressors in a non approved way (one hook of the 2 on the bottom, its all i could get in there. ) so that wasnt goin to work, a little bit of trial and error and i ended up with this.. i cut 1 coil off of the bottom of the spring (tangenital end) i cut 1.25 coils off of the top of the spring (square end) this made the coil to the height that i could atleast assemble the stuff. UPPER COIL SEAT: drill it out to 12mm (or just so the shock fits thru it. i just used a 1/2" bit i had layin around, 12.5mm. BUMPSTOP: since its attached to the dust boot, and i had new dust boots that came with my new shock, i cut off the bumpstop 3 notches from the end, and put it on the shock, not sure if that was necessary but i did, i made it shorter just because of the travel of the shock being shorter UPPER SHOCK MOUNT: to assemble, i cut the rubber bushing from the top of the mount in half, or so it just protrudes from the top of the shock mount enough that the nut will be able to be threaded on. for the bottom bushing, i used the one that came with the shock. also i drilled out a flat washer to go under the nut. so in order from top to bottom: nut, washer, half-Ea82 upper bushing, shock mount, lower bushing from new hardware, new hardware washer, upper coil seat, bumpstop. i was able to put it all together with out spring compressors, i did have to push down by hand on the mount to get the top nut to thread on. finished assembly... GET ON THE CAR once the car is up on stands, drop the mustachebar and rear end of the rear dif. your axles will thank you. i didnt do this on until after the first side was done. the axles were REALLY stretched out. you will need to modify the welded nut that the old shock lower bolt threaded into, i used a 9/16" drill bit to drill out the hole that bolt goes thru on the back of the control arm. as for that welded nut. you can try to remove it, i attempted, but couldnt get in there and didnt want to waste alot of time tryin to mcgyver it out of there, so i just drilled right throught it and used a longer bolt, i believe it was a 80mm bolt i used. also.. the bumpstop stop on the control arm will get in the way due to the lift and not lowerin the suspension tube if you have not done so. since my bumpstops rusted out years ago... little bit of grinder lovin.. bolt the top bolts in first, then you can use a little 'oomph' and get the lower to line up, i had to put a pipe in there to get some leverage so i could get the bolt lined up, the pipe went above the control arm and under the suspension tube, my pipe was long enough i could just straddle and sit on it and adjust the downward force that way. it worked well. with a 2" lift iwth this setup, it would be good to drop the dif a little as you can see here is my axle angle currently (tomorrows project: dif drop plate) here is what it looks like after driving about a half mile or so to the photospot. i am curious though.. based on the wheel gap... what lift height does this setup resemble? 4"? due to the stiffness of the springs, i wouldnt assume they will settle TOO much from here.

sucks eh? im replacin my rear suspension, will probably end up just getting new struts for the front, god i hate takin the car apart with the lift on it. pitchbar seems to check out just fine. i tightened the front bolt a bit but it wasnt loose enough that i would have expected it to make a clunk.

hmm, i'll double check the pitchbar.

while tryin to track down a clunk under the car.... and while filling my car with some coolant, my car died, got it goin on what was my fuel pumps last effort to pump, died in the street 2 houses up, where i found my IAC seemed to have also died. replaced the fuel pump in the street, luckily i had a spare in the trunk and my fuel lines werent stubborn. then i was messing with my new gauge cluster i made, didnt tighten my mechanical oil pressure gauge line enough and didnt realize it until i had atleast a quart of oil in my glove box. aside from that debacle. i ordered a 2nd cooling fan to wire up to the original EA thermo switch for additional cooling, that showed up along with my new rear springs (Moog cc246), new radius rod bushings, just waiting on my rear shocks and i can install that good stuff. might order new trans mounts soon too. of course, this will be put on hold as im sitting in the hospital waiting for my baby to start coming out. i need a clone. lol.

any car audio shop will have plenty of sound deadening stuff, probably Dynamat or similar. in milwaukee i can only think of Auto Sound and Effects or Alarmtronics, BestBuy used to have it too, but that was back in the mid 90's im sure they still might carry it.

i do have a pitchstopper. i'll peek around at the trans mount there, but i hear/feel it up front more so. will have to put this on hold for a day.. IAC went bad today, cant start the car.... WHAT NEXT!

i'll try for some video. i think if i put some weight in the car at the rear, it would lessen as the weight has shifted back a bit. when my suspension was all stretched out after having the car jacked up, i thought i had solved the problem. then it settled... :/doh!

i find that tractor supply stores carry the seafoam about $3 less per can than places like autozone/advance/oreily etc. might call around. 5 cans might be a bit much, LOL> but hell, who am i to say whats right and wrong.

"trans strut support brace" would that be the trans mount where it mounts to the cross member? i'll double check all the tranny mounting bolts and such. unfortunately i am being stuck at work until about 10pm tonight.

lay shaft? something is definetly shifting when power is applied. i generally cant hear it when i let off the gas. havent tried revving it out over 5k and letting off the gas tho

double and triple checked everything is tight, i THOUGHT at first i forgot to tighten up the 2 bolts at the front of the radius rod but unfortunately they were tight. LOL. too bad because that would have been easy. haha. lookin like i'll have to try swappin that hub and hope the wheel bearings are good in it.

i think we may be on to something there, i recall a slightly wobbly hub on that side a while back,

that was a thought as well. i have a spare hub at my parents place, but dont want to swap it until my new tie rod ends show up as i dont think the current one will survive another beatdown. i also dont know the health of the wheel bearings in that hub.

rear dif top mount bushing? probably not, this is definately up front. did it before the swap, top hat bearings i think are good, i've had the top hat original to the car as well as fox's 3door strut/tophat that he gave me. same result, i wouldnt expect them both bad.

yeah as far as i can tell. i tried to shake things around a bit, i couldnt find my pry bar to try to pry it around. but yeah, seems like its due to the accelleration that whatever it is shifts. unfortunately i cant seem to find anything that will shift when the car is still, especially if i jack it up, with the lift its pretty tight. when all extended.

i think i might have accidently deleted some words there. lol.. i have tried different struts in there. (not just the upper strut busings) now. being that these struts were both either from 1992 or 1987, they could both be bad, but im doubting thats the case.

ok, so i did search for this already, couldnt find anything. when i accellerate i hear a clunk sound one time and then wont hear it again until i slow to a stop, hit the gas again and it'll go again. if i take off pretty slow, it wont do it. its not a click like a CV, i have replaced the bushings on the radius rod and still get it. sounds a little different with the new bushing. im pretty sure its not the upper strut bushing as i've had 2 different ones in there. and happens with or with out the lift Could it be worn tranny mounts possibly? im not sure how 'spongy' they are when worn? they feel a bit spongy, and im sure are original from 1989 with the trans. this is a 92 loyale. anyone have this before? any ideas????

Caption: Dude! really? :barf:

removed the teflon tape and there was no change in the way the sensor was reacting, so fortunately it was monday today and went to the dealer (open til 8pm on mondays) and got a new sensor, cost 2x as much, but its much easier to return if needed. i can probably still return this one to rock auto the new sensor worked out just fine. i wish i would have just accepted the fact i could have a bad sensor right off the bat! LOL. Had to be that i got a wrong part, or rockauto listed the part for the wrong year. looking closer the subaru part vs the Intermotor part were slightly different, the intermotor part was larger in general as far as the temperature probe.

theres 2 wires and 1 gnd on the sensor, i bet you that the gauge is grounded thru the coolant tube, not the gnd in the connector. that makes sense to why the car is driving as it did previously. and the gauge just doesnt work right. i'll try removing the teflon tape and then will report back.

F'in a. I did put Teflon tape on it, went back and forth on to do so or not.. Its a triangle sensor, However it only fits one way by design. There is a notch that prevents putting it wrong unless you mangle/force it.. However I would have thought that the coolant tune was Aluminum so it wouldn't ground thru it?? Ill take the Teflon tape off and try it.