xbeerd

wish i could borrow one to try it out before buying one!

ok, so my swap is from an originally automatic vehicle. ('00 outback, which any one reading this probably knows already from past threads etc) i've previously mentioned that i get 2 codes related to automatic transmissions. 1722 and 1116. which i figured ok, so that makes sense coming from a AT car to a car which is no longer AT. HOWEVER. looking at the wiring diagrams in the FSM ('00 legacy) for the AT diagnosis wire (which i assume is what tells the ECU its an auto vs a MT)from the ECU, it only connects from the ECU to the tranny controller and no other splices. so, with the removal of the tranny controller, the ECU should be thinking its a MT, so why would i still get these codes relating to the AT?? (i wrote down the differences at home, will try to post later) there were a few differnces in the pinouts from the AT and MT ECU diagrams but it was relating primarily to the manifold pressure sensor and a couple signal wires. you think the ecu seeing these readings on a certain pin might keep it in AT mode? the codes go away when i clear them and dont return for a while but eventually return. i dont have the AT diagnosis wire grounded or anything, should that be grouned or just left free?

i used my gps for the first couple weeks after the larger tires. noting what speed i was going on my speedometer vs my gps. when my speedo says 65mph, im actually going 74-75 mph. 55mph is about 63, etc. under 40 it doesnt really matter as its only a few mph off. which isnt going to cause my any trouble around here i found i got used to it pretty quick.

what the heck? now that names red?

yeah, i knew there wasnt a subframe on the leg's, just was showing what it might look like as an example, definately a simple reacharound to get the EA plate on it. i second that on the UEL header skid plate spacing. especially if you dropped your engine cross member with a lift. i had to extend the front bolts like 2", as well as add a 3" block in the back of it to clear on my loyale (i know not a legacy but same general idea). might as well just make a custom plate. LOL!

i thought you had to slightly modify the holes in the skid plate no? so they couldnt fix your old screenname? thats a bummer. here is how it looks on a 05 Impreza wagon. now i remember. Steve had to drill holes in that sub frame to mount it to. thats what it was.

i cleaned the IAC, it seemed to solve the problem for a few days, and now its back. should i do the same to the air assist thing on the front on the intake manifold? guess i will look into the pcv valve next too.

the intrepid spring is a rear spring on the intrepid but would be replacing a front spring on the ea82 potientially. i havent done it yet, mainly because i dont have $60 i can drop on some more springs for r&d. yeah, 4wd ea82s cliffs notes: EA82 front springs can be replaced with the ford tempo front springs, but the tempo springs will have to be modified in some manner for the height, being that they are like 3-4 inches taller than the subaru spring. but as a heads up. the tempo spring will seat in the subaru strut, but it will have about a half inch gap on the one side due to the OD of the spring being smaller. EA82 rears can be replaced with the front springs of a Honda Accord per Jeszeks write up. you'll have to search but i think its 1988-91 or so range of years for that. They will lift up the rear end. yeah, i hear ya, it is confusing.

i did basically the same thing you did for finding a tempo spring size, using moog for a reference, i know there are all different sizes etc, but for the most part, the OD and height etc were pretty close, but as i was looking at Rock Auto for model comparison, they seemed to list the same springs for different models. that 'd have varying weights (like AT W/ AC Etc VS MT) the thing that i really didnt like was the OD of the spring being that much smaller that the size of the strut. but i do like the idea of those Intrepid springs. seems like it would be a better fit. i had a rate of 135 or so stock, but i was looking at a 87 XT fms

interesting! and handy to know!

where i live (Milwaukee, WI), they just plug into the obd2 port and read it, no sniffer or anything (atleast on awd vehicles). and they only check vehicles 96 and newer. this surely helped me in my decision to buy a 92 of course, because of this, the used car dealer market is pretty jacked up.

Yeah I am pretty sure its right up top

Ah yes, carb cleaner, something I just ran out of when prepping the snowblower for winter. Thanks for the reply!

i did the plugs/wires about 2 months ago or so. i will take a look at the pcv and iac.. you think its a case of the pcv and or iac randomly sticking? what would i use to 'unstick' the IAC? can you just use a spray lubricant (like WD40 etc) on that? or is it more of a clean it with some kind of degreaser? just bugs me that its not consistant. consistant problems much easier to solve. unfortunately (and fortuantely i guess) i havent run into many cars with issues in the past.

well. i found that someting ripped apart my o2 sensor from the connector! fixed that and eliminated the 1133 code. it still idled all funky, BUT, i cleared the code from the computer and it seemed to go back to normal. Does that make any sense?

i had that problem with our shifter once, the metal L shaped lever popped out of the plastic groove in the parkin lockout. i pulled it apart and popped it back in place pretty quickly, on the 2000 legacy outback its on the passenger side of the shifter.

ok, so i think this is a EJ251 related problem not relating to my swap. (this is a EJ251 swapped Loyale) this happened once before and went away on its own, so then lately the cars been running well. then all of a sudden a few days ago i start the car and it goes a little weird, will idle up to 3000 rpms and drop slowly down to 2000 rpms and hold there. keeping on my drive to work. it'll keep doing it, i push in the clutch and the rpms rise up and finally settle back down to 2000rpms. so by the time i get to work 15 mins later, still same situation. then, when i was a mile or so away from home. its just went back to normal like someone flipped a switch! i pulled my codes. the normal ones i get... 446 / 463 Evap system and fuel pressure sensor (swap related) 1116 / 1722 engine torque control and AT diagnosis input (also swap related, using AT ECM) and a new one 1133 Front Oxyen sensor heater circuit high i did rip an axle boot open, so there is probably a load of axle grease on the front o2 sensor connections etc. BUT. is there anything else that could possibly be causing the goofy idle, and why the heck would it all fo a sudden 'cure' itself while driving? Think if the Neutral switch wire to the ecu was accidently grounded it could cause this? other info.. doesnt seem to be losing coolant, if it is, its minimal at best, i drove 800 miles round trip a few weeks ago and lost maybe the amount of coolant from top off to part way above the bottom of the filler on the radiator. this seems to happen whether the thermostat is open or closed. so i dont think its a HG issue. (maybe it is?) there doesnt seem to be any vaccum leaks that i can find. i'd love to hear anyone elses thoughts on this one. I find it odd that it happens for a while, goes away, and then will happen again. -scott

i believe you will want to wire the previously mentioned tickler wire to the main relay, or atleast via relay to the main relay, or you will drain the battery. thats what i was told in my alternator thread in the retrofitting forum.

Lol yeah. Its m4d tyte! I gotta clean up the holes from where the slats were yet before repainting

i made a m4d jD/\/\ grill. ran out of the rustoleum red, so it ended up safety red, will become the same color as the hood some time.

This is the post i was thinking of, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=127177&highlight=shifter+bushing its shown for ea81.

there was a post about using some nylon washers/bushings or someting for this, let me see if i can find it! its like a $6 fix!

Because if thats the case, then i probably have a failing alternator as my battery isnt being charged and its brand new. So you are sayin I'm good as is? S and L straight to S and C with no need for ign connection?

i have the Actron one from Autozone (was like $60) just reads the code. also i have a USB/obd2 adapter (bout $35+shipping). both work great, i usually just read the codes, write them down and take them inside to the computer, http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/ they also have manufacturer specific codes on there too.

if you get a obdII donor/motor/harness its a little easier (i've only done an obdII, but from people that done both, that is the consensus i gathered) i tell ya tho. i love the ej25 in my car. its not running 100% on right now, few bugs to work out but its damn close. i dont think its anything swap related, more motor related as in sensors and stuff.