xbeerd

this is the thing where i feel the leak may be...

on my way to work today, power dropped out a couple times on the highway for a second or 2 but i had to gas it up to keep it going, but that was it. any chance this might be a dying fuel pump?!? my fuel pump was running fairly loud for a while (before the swap, but never seemed to fail/hinder ea82 performance

BAH, LOL. true. ok fine (lol), i will install the rear o2 sensor which i am pretty sure is bad anyways.. i put a meter on it, and it read like 4 ohms, where i think it was supposed to be like 30 ohms or more. i actually thought i found a possible vacuum leak last night in the dark but couldnt see where it was. i THOUGHT it was coming from that little part on the front of the intake manifold behind the powersteering pump, has 2 hoses (and one smaller hose i think,i forgot what part it actually was, i knew.. but forgot.)

well my stupid program is a trial version so it wouldnt save the damn data long, but i took a few pics of it while it was idling. not sure if it helps or not.. any thing flag on there? or because i was just idling its not enough to tell. im lookin for a better software now, after i took those i changed my TPS with another on i had layin around (i always grab them at the pick n pulls etc) and turned it all the way one way and the absolute throttle position was at about 5% drove around a little but i dont think it was enough, true test will be in the mornin or after work tomorrow. the last 3 days it started happening right about the same spot on my way home.

LOL, i hope that is my problem. then it should be solved after i check all that stuff. thanks for the info there! oh... when you refer to air/fuel are you meaning the 02 sensors. oh ************, i forgot... the rear o2 sensor i expect to be running lean... since its not hooked up to the exhaust at the moment. (smack self) but its been that way for over a month now and has been fine

SO the car in the last 2-3 days has started acting kinda goofy. i'll start driving, everythings fine for a few miles then, i'll hit the gas, it'll hesitate then kick in, then hesitate, kick in etc. my idle has been sitting around 2000 rpms sometimes falls to 1600, and then sometimes will sit around 5-600rpms. possibly helpful information.. SOHC EJ25, OBDII, (both fused) power and constant wired to a switch, from an open spot in the fuse box (via spade connector, i dont like it but its been working fine for about a month now with pretty regular driving.) grounded to the body. i need to do the alternator wiring that elfreddo showed me yet. resistors to eliminate fuel level sensor, and fuel temp sensor (set to 75 deg F approx) my TPS was/is adjusted to 10%, as thats how it was set on my buddies 04 2.5rs (checked via obdII usb data cable /laptop) i dont know if maybe i kicked a wire out or something yet but everything should be secure. thats my plan tonight to check that. it IS possible that my wiring to the TPS was damaged by the previous time this engine and wiring was installed by someone else. (grrr) mainly wondering if anyones had the similar issues post swap and what they did to fix

word, didnt think about the 6cyl! does the 6cyl only come in automatic?

so. can someone explain to me why it is that the auto has a 4 pin TPS, and the manual has a 3pin TPS. according to my FSM for this car, they both only use 3 pins, and both connect to the same pins on the ECU. yet. they are different parts. and the auto one is WAY more expensive.

Thanks dude. the atmospheric pressure sensor actually is not part of the TCU, well, from what i can tell based on the wiring diagram from the 00 legacy fsm. my ecu is from a automatic 2000 Outback ej25 sohc. i dont have a pressure sensor in my airbox, just a manifold pressure sensor on the manifold, so if the ecu would be tricked to think its manual. would i technically end up with the same problem just looking for a different sensor. as far as the atmospheric sensor. i think i busted it apart to make a 3 prong male/female set of connectors, LOL. if i recall its a white square sensor maybe 1" square about 1/8-1/4" thick with a mounting tab on it. im sure i can however, so the 3 pins listed for the sensor, i anticiapte i would just have to connect the power, signal, gnd pins together, and ground the signal out with a proper resistor to adjust to 14.7psi, i think i'll still find a sensor to put in tho.

i think you'll be more likely to see a subaru engine in a porsche, than a porsche engine in a subaru. like the porubi. http://porubi.com/ i would say its definately feasible, well anything is possible with the right money. but i think acquiring a porsche engine and wiring would be quite spendy! unless its an older motor, which case i think the EJ would be probably better? thoughts?

I've eliminated 2 of my CEL's. the Fuel Level sending unit, and the fuel temperature gauge. in 2 ways... using the actual sensors and using resistors. the 2 resistors add up to about 1650ohms as what the fuel temperature sensor was at about 75 degrees. the lone resistor is the 33 ohm for the fuel level sensor. i like the compactness of the resistor option, so i'll probably stic with that one only CEL codes left are 446 (evap sensor low input (IIRC), and 1111 Atmospheric pressure sensor. (im using a AT ecu) if anyone knows a pin i can ground to make the car think its manual, i'd love to hear it, otherwise i'll wire in a sensor probably (if i can find it)

turn the steering wheel a little bit back and forth?

well, you probably couldnt just drop it in, you'd have to plumb it in, i would think the washer fluid is conductive and would just short out the wires if the whole thing was submerged in washer fluid unless you put some glue or something over that area of the sensor. not sure about the pressure sensor, i dont believe i have a code for that at the moment, i'll have to run the codes thru my computer again. maybe tie in a MAP sensor of some sort?? im not sure if the ecu controls fuel differently based on the temperature of it. depending where you are, it wont matter, but in wisconsin we definately have some season changes with 90+ degree days in summer and subzero days in winter.

here's what i am going to try. i got the old fuel pump and scavenged its internals, so i have the sensors i can just wire them in and hide them under the dash in a box or something. but for reference and for my own curiousity, i'll give a shot trying using resistors to cancel it out when i have a chance. i measured the resistance of the fuel temp sensor from my donor, it was about 1.66k ohms at my room temp which was about 75deg. dropped slightly when i breathed on it to heat it up. I'd look for a resistor or put a few resistors in series to make about that. Fuel level sending unit had a lower resistance range, from like 16-50ohms or so. i would stick a 33ohm resistor in there so it think its at half tank all the time. at the bottom you see the 2 pins needed for my situation, not sure if yours are the same you'll have to check your fsm for sure.. I would think you would just put the resistor on those wires/pins, and then ground the other end. im gonna put a VMM on it first to see if i am getting voltage out of the ecu which im pretty sure i am. (anyone can chime in correct me on that one if they know for sure!)

im with you on that one. i'd lose that SMJ for sure. i was just getting a feeling that based on the conversation it might be over his head to do so (no offense to the OP by any means, thats just the feeling i got)

there probably is. but, once you have the harness stripped down you'll be left with X amount of wires left on the SMJ, those wires then you cut (one at a time i would recommend) and solder, pin 1 to pin 1 (from each side of smj) pin 2 to pin 2, and so on. the SMJ doesnt have to be eliminated really. if i were you i would concentrate first on going thru the car and labeling all the connectors, and start removing them as necessary when youare 100%sure you dont need that connector. and eliminate the bulk of the wiring. i would probably label it with text labels like "cruise control" or "DRL" etc. rather than the numbers in the manual since you'd have to look up the name to see if you need it before you remove it anyways. you can go thru and label as you remove it from the car.

the SMJ, as far as i can tell is the large gray connector in the picture below. Fortunately my ej251 swap doesnt have an SMJ like that. Theoretically you could eliminate it by cutting a wire off of it, say, pin25. Then you would cut corresponding pin25 from the other side and solder them together and repeat for all other wire pairs

Made a new pitchbar for the lowered x-member. Welding could be bter but eh, who cares driving the car with the crossmember lowered made a huge difference, since my suspension is kinda mushy, when i got on the gas the front end lifts up a bit from the ej25 torque and once i hit like 3000 rpms the power just wasnt there. well.. my axles were stretched out to the max. (already ripped a boot on my new F'in axle!; pre blocks) the outback lift blocks lowered the crossmember probably like 1-1.25". the steering joint i used was from a 98 impreza, but the alignment holes were different so i had to pull my steering wheel and aim it right.

One was halfway to Madison in the middle of nowhere in the middle of the day Outback spacees fit but the outback hardware is just slightly larger than the EA hardware. Doh. Just got new hardware. It'll do till I can get right sized grade 8

why dont you start one if you want one? oh. i was gonna reply to the above.. but just a heads up wisconsin technically does require both plates to be displayed. its section 341.15 most of the time no one is gonna care, unless they are lookin for something else. i've been stopped twice for not havin a front plate.

Dropped my front crossmember using cut down stock spacers from a 2000 outback

where in Indiana are you? as in how far from milwaukee? we have some parts here that might be able to help out pretty reasonably

Gloyale... yeah, charge light comes on, but the other wire on the connector, im not 100% sure on. i've read the EJ swap alternator issue solved thread. but it talks of an alternator with more wires than i have. honestly, the mileage has been great, well, its better than it was with my EA82, so, im happy. LOL. i'll try a diode on the ign wire when i get a chance, i would like to eliminate the fact that both wires need to have the power cut all the time.

yeah, i figured you meant rocks. i think the most big rocks this thing will ever see is probably going to be a median in the road. haha. (needs mostly new suspension all around) im just gonna drive it till it dies and try to keep the rust at bay being that the car is one of the more unique rides in the city.

yeah, im not too worried about the front, its the back of the car that'll probably rust away before the front gets damaged lol.