xbeerd

This is what im doing right now (99 LGT, 04 Forester XT springs/struts). I am having a hell of a time getting the rears in. i got the strut bolted up top to the body (loosely, for ability to maneuver it if needed) and the lower bolt in the knuckle, but cant get the upper bolt holes lined up even close to being able to put the bolt in. i cant seem to figure out how to put a prybar or anything in there to get it goin the right way :/ ideas?

i think i might make some body spacers or find some body spacers still tho to save a little on the bushings on the trailing arm and stuff. i litterally gave it all i could give and couldnt get the bolt hole to line up to put the bolt in, would it have been better that i had the top end completely loose and bolt the bottom first? my only concern is i found a little bit of a rust issue and dont want to potentially F up the cross member mount and have to weld a new one or something. i gave a turn on the cross member bolts and heard a little crackling of rust in there, i dont know if it was necessarilyl in the area of the crossmember bolts or in just the outter layer of metal. (i assume theres an outter layer? similar to the loyales and stuff?)

I searched and coudlnt find the info i was looking for, but do i need the outback body spacer blocks for this? i have a rear strut partially in and it looks unpromising that without a good deal of muscle the upper bolt of the 2 on the knuckle will be bolting up. sounds like i just answered my own question? anyways. would like to hear from anyone running this setup in their legacy gt thanks!

Buy Bills blueprints and produce lift kits?

LOL... is a raped ape a good thing or a bad thing ?!?!? ahah mine will downshift and squeal tires at higher speeds

anyone besides me running a frankenmotor (ej25d-ej22dualport heads) with an automatic trans? im wondering how yours runs compared to mine, my trans is tired, 175k, and im pretty sure its never had a fluid/filter change.(on my to do list). its a 4.11. i'm probably going to swap it with a 4.44 auto i have from a 05 impreza if i can get the axle stubs to swap, (*free trans! woo!) my power seems to lack untill about 2700rpms, i get a jolty hard shift into 2nd sometimes, and hard downshifts at times. im assuming this to mostly be my tired trannys doing? anyways.. just looking for experiences with frankenmotor on auto trans cars.

yeah, the sad thing is i've had the frankenstein one done for probably 2 months now, but i've been too busy with work, family, and other bS to post anything about it.

Hope i am posting this correctly... Actual item shows EJ22/25, not EJ22.5D (but i'll make that if you want it) decal is 4" widex2.125" tall $5/ea. or 2 for $8 shipped. Right now available Chrome or White Frankenstien pistons 7"x8" available in silver currently $12 shipped PM here or probably best to email me at pergandes AT yahoo.com paypal only preferrably thanks! Scott PS.. i should also mention i can do custom stuff too, up to about 24" wide. PM or email any inquiries/ideas and we can talk about it.

well, i restarted the car to see what CEL i might have, assuming misfire i guess, and i got a P0301, and the car idled quiet as a kitten and smooth as it ever has. cleared the code with my reader and it hasnt come back who knows. LOL..

so my HLAs on one side tick like like a time bomb. i took the cover off and popped out the HLAs, half of them were soft and squishy, half of them were very hard. SO.. i compressed and sucked in some oil to the soft ones and they got some strength like the other ones. put it together, start up the car and im getting a flashing CEL and a rough idle. not sure where to look next. did i F up the HLA by doing what i did? something else? never had a flashing cel ever so i dont know where to start with that.

i seem to recall 55mm shorter on the driveshaft

yeah, make sure to use the flex plate thats with the trans, i didnt notice the difference in the flex plate sizes until i had the engine bolted in and was bolting, or should i say attempting to bolt in, the flex plate to the torque conveter. DOH. (this was in a ej22 swap into a 99 legacyGT, that ended up getting a frankenmotor)

cool thanks for the links and info guys, im contemplating just putting this engine together on the shelf for the sake of it'll be a quick swap if my frankenmotor dies. all i should need is a timing belt because i made a belt out of the EJ25 belt, LOL

right on. i'll keep searching around for that old thread. i did some searching naturally, the 'normal' frankenmotor topics come up

i know Ivan mentioned it in a post at some point, but is this setup worth the effort? i think they said it was like 8:1 CR. so it would be better suited for a turbo application wondering if anyones built one and driven with it in a car and what they thought of it. (or how bad did it suck?) to get any power out of it, thoughts about something like a small turbo (saab? ea82t?) but running on stock ecu and just maybe some larger injectors. for reference, 95 ej22 block and 99 ej25d heads is what i have

yeah, research frankenmotor on here. or read all of the "high compression frankenstien" on Nasioc

from another thread on this, people are saying that due to the viscous center dif, its probably bad. you are correct tho, no rear dif combo will make a 40% difference. something is not right there, the 4.11 rear dif is standard usdm. he said he redid the test with both fronts up. and got like 9-10 rotations, has to rewatch to verify 9 or 10, as that makes a huge difference here. from the diagram i was lookin at here (attached) it shows that the transfer gear is driven off of the center dif. so. the ratio to me is something of value. he is going to pull off the transfer extension and count teeth. its just kinda hard because he isnt super experienced taking his car apart to this extent. and i don't know that much of how the drivetrains work, having never taken one apart myself let alone the time when im not at work to help him out. i'd love to work on it so i could learn something, but just need more hours in the damn day!

Can the USDMcenter dif be swapped in place of a JDM center dif if thats the problem? we have a center dif from the old trans.

here is a video of him jacking up the car, spinning the front wheel 10 times. based on what we said earlier, the rear wheel should turn one less rotation (or close to it) than the front wheel it is 1.1:1 or also turn 10 rotations if 1:1. well. the wheel turned 4 times? anyone?

ok, so that being said, if it is a 1.1:1 transfer gear, with a 4.11FD in the front and rear, if he were to do that test again and spin the front wheel 10 times, it would rotate the rear wheel 11? or would it be more like 9, regardless, it wont be 10. then we'd need to find a 3.7 rear dif, which comes from a 06-07 WRX from what i found searching, know of any other years that had 3.7 rear dif? (other than old school soobs! haha, thats the only thing i knew of a 3.7 until starting this stuff)

it wasnt a full 1/4 rotation off, he spun the wheel a few times. i believe there was a 1.1:1 transfer ratio, but those all seemed to be cars having a 3.9 Final drive. on this chart.. http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru%20Transmission%20Chart all the JDM trans with 4.11's have 1:1 or have nothing listed.

Oh gotcha. That's what I figured. Well the trans checks out for a 4.11 as far as I can tell from searching the net. The front wheel made one rotation. The rear wheel made what looked like 3/4 rotation ( or 1.25 if went the other way)

so what does Gloyales test do? lol test the center dif function?

someone else in the facebook group he and I are a part of mentioned that center dif might be problematic same as ivan did here. anyone have any thoughts on the video? can the center dif be swapped with trans stil lin the car (sounds like a pain in the rump roast)

you can listen here. the tranny is ty754vbbca i found a tranny list/doc, but that didnt include the FD for that one but a few ebay items show it as 4.11