xbeerd

LOL... the audio in bass tracks was classic. I gotta see if i still have the cd, it was some crap about a "Stylaphone" or soemthing some brittish guy talkin bout it. oh here it is.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tNO4EZU8GSQ Mortal combat sounding ************. i recall the bass was pretty good if you had a tight sealed box I wanna build this for my home theatre.. http://www.decware.com/newsite/hwk15.htm although it'd probably wreck my house... itd be fun explaining that to the insurance company. they got some cool sub box plans on that site.

how do sites work? we just get a big group site? or everyone gets a site on their own?

Yeah, when we did mine, it was that same situation. i dont recall offhand which color wires they were off hand. I cut the plug off the AT selector and made a jumper that way rather than jamming a wire in the socket.

atleast tho, with the capacitors in there you should save a little bit of draw on the system. i would bet you'd be just fine with a 90 amp alternator. I ran my old system in my ford probe 2x1000watt amps w/ 2 1farad caps wired up and it was fine, except when there was a looooong bass sound while driving with my headlights on. never killed the car, but it wanted to! be sure to post some pics (progress and finished product) of the install! i'd be down to see it in all its glory.

oh yeah! well, i got a AM FM radio with one speaker! ************ man, that stuff costs twice as much as my whole damn car!

around here i would expect about a $900 bill to get a clutch changed out. To MOST people changing a clutch and pulling an engine to do so is a HUGE deal, so some places put a high price on it because people expect it to be expensive. I had a wheel bearing changed out on our 00 outback last year to the tune of $570. i thought THAT was high. Same guy wanted $136 to change a outter tie rod end and then $70 for an alignment. which i didnt think was unreasonable. however i changed the end myself ($40 part) didnt move the adjustment nut since the end going on was the exact same part as i was taking off. car goes straight. yay!

ok, after noon for sure... so you dont get sick!

I should have time this weekend. I MIGHT have to work a lunch on saturday but i might take a personal day since i'll be off all the following week anyways. I love having 4+ weeks of vacation! do you know did that house ever get torn down behind his garage?

Wonder how much shipping to iceland would be?

by the looks of that halogen light, i'd say things took a little longer than expected and thats why ya didnt make it over to Steves... i was hopin to get that subaru alliance sticker this weekend.. oh well. maybe next weekend? what did i do recently... replaced outer tie rod end on the 00utback. attempted to fix the Yakima copperhead bike rack fork mounts on the 00utback. next step: buy replacement parts for siezed up forkmount. :/ NOTE TO SELF: take the damn parts off before winter this year!

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Looks Good! what lift is that? also... what size tyres are those? thats bout the stance i want in my ride.

my guess is that everyones first thought when talkin about a 5spd swap is that you are going from a 3at to a 5spd. thats what I originally assumed.

i dunno about your brakes, but... you could check the rear main seal of the engine for leakage. and if you have the engine out anyways, might as well check the cam/crank seals for leaks, timing belt condition, waterpump, etc etc we dont know how many miles on your engine so its hard to say where its at as far as maintenance goes, if its even on schedule etc. you could also check the rear output seal on the tranny, when we did my d/r swap i had a leaky rear trans seal if you search, MilesFox and i have a thread with the napa part numbers for that seal, and the WRONG seal they tried to give me as well. on the tranny, might be worth checkin the shifter linkage bushings too. probably easier to do with it out of the car. look at me... talkin like i know some stuff!

haha, kinda looks like you got some guns on top your car!

put a new (to me) rear bumper on the car last night, i'd take a picture but it j ust looks like a loyale with a nice straight bumper vs a crooked bent one.

well. i pulled the deck outta my loyale this evening and found a 7 pin connector with a center pin, so 8 pin i guess. i know its not the same as the 5pin. there was a plug in the connector which did nothing but jumper 2 connectors, actually, there were 2 separate jumpers. (4 pins on the 'plug'). I had to leave in a hurry, and forgot to replace the plug when i put my deck in, and low and behold i had no radio anymore until i put it back in. i cant imagine the radio is that different. i'd try jump the 2 pins that arent the L+, R+, - and see what happens. maybe its the opposite?

im not sayin your way is a bad way to do it or anything, if it works for ya and your are happy with it, then roll with it . but yeah, dependin on the music i would guess it would be fine. i really cant say ************, i've only got one speaker! most the time i listen to a mornin radio show and on the way home from work i listen to some reggae on the ipod. *keeping to topic at hand*

hmm interesting, i guess if you have volume control on the ipod so it overpowers the static, but that would get to bug me after a short while. I think that DIN plug is the same size as old school keyboard connectors, i'll have to check but if i have an old cable i could make one too for an extra aux input. or i could be way off. either way. lol. I think we are on the right track though... probably closer than we think. i hope the old school AT keyboard plug is the same i could wire someting up and pull my deck outta my car and just try it, worse case i make a harness and bezel and put the stock radio from our 2000 outback in it.

i forgot to ask, how did you come to the conclusion that the black and yellow were the L/R + wires? DUH, i just zoomed in on the original picture, found the Lch/Rch labels. Doh!! haha. could you maybe post a picture of the plug end of the cable and diagram which wire corresponds to each pin on the plug? maybe that'll help. i've been searching around the net on some MP3car forums etc. i guess if i were doin this right now, i'd try wiring the grounded sheath to the ground on the headphone plug (opposite end of the tip, i assume you know that but just to be sure), the yellow to the center, and the black to the tip. if you can do that and leave the white/red as they are, maybe try shorting that switch on the lower part of the board it might switch over. if that dont work, maybe the blue is the ground for the audio? i cant see the markings on the caps but i think the blue is on the - side.

#&^%$&&QW&V &@%@$!!!! the radio i thought i had.. well.. i dont have it anymore. Grrr!

wouldnt the last wire need to be a GND or "-" for the audio? or do you think the GND to be shared all around in this case? edit: *nevermind

ive read about doing that with cd changer/hacks. my guess is that it'll work BUT i think he was wanting to rid himself of the tape player all together.

for reference.. kinda.. i made an adapter for my kenwood from this diagram... I am going to try to poke around tonight and see if the same 10k resistor(or any resistor for the matter) will work, all the resistor was doing was letting the deck know something was there to let it switch over.

I really shouldnt say crappy, the reception with the antenna out is just fine, i just dont like antennas so i keep it tucked in, which helps my fm transmitter situation. I really wish i was at home at the moment so i could look at/for my other radio, thinking out loud.... so this radio connector has 5 pin, 3 of them are for the audio L/R/GND. If you figure the pinout, which it seems we have figured out the audio portion, i wonder if its as simple as just a on/off switch on the other 2 pins to make it work.