xbeerd

word. i think i'll just slap the frankenmotor together then, sounds like worse case, if i get some knocking and ************ i can just put the 2.2 block back in the middle. the 2.2 is in the car, it starts, smokes a bit, its not blue, but its not necessarly rotten veggie smelling. hard to tell whats what when its 20 degrees outside, 2 of the plugs seemed to have some oil on them that we took out of it. i've taken it around the block a few times, it idles a little rough, but when you put on the gas or let off the gas, it seems to run rough. im gonna try cleaning up some things like the pcv and maf etc and see if that does anything for it. im getting pretty consistant spark on all cyls per my timing gun, i'll try to get a video driving it around so ya can see what im talkin bout. so in the mean time i can checkout and clean up this 2.2 block while the f'nmotor is in why do i do this ************ in winter. LOL

holy crap! LOL that makes me feel better about my pile of stuff.

verified, yes, i could see there is crosshatching seen on all cylinders:clap:

i thought i recalled seeing some cross hatching, i'll have to double check in some good light. i havent drained the oil yet, so i can check that for goodies. the rear of the tb covers were not warped at all. so... as long as they havent been replaced at some point

Oh crap. I meant to say 'block' not heads.

were you referring to the one clean piston in the pic? i think i took a rag to the thing before taking the picture, it was consistant with the other pistons etc, the spark plugs were a little light on the front cyl's and darker on the rear cyls. in any case, based on those pics, do you think that the head is decently useable? i didnt have any oil on the plugs at all so i think the rings are decent, this car was used for a period of time for the guys wife who dove 5 mins to and from work each day. which would confirm your statement above about the short trips etc.

or you can also do a search for a ej22 swap. use a ej22e from a 95 automatic subaru for dual port heads that match, and EGR if your car has EGR

sorry bout the crappy pictures.

well. today i took the heads off of the ej25d that i had. here's the pics, what do you think? im still a bit novice when it comes to diagnosing things. i see some of the valves are pretty white, would this be due to coolant seepage??

it'll clear up coolant smoking out my exhaust?? i'll try it, see what happens

rehashing an old thread, i have a similar issue, hard to get out of 4wd once engaged, sometimes can roll it back and forth to get it easier. could it be something like a shift bushings at all? 4wd drives and functions fine, i have a 3.9 rear dif (cars '92), has to be forced out of 4wd, no clunking or anything when it shifts as the OP of this thread had.

^^^ any pics of that setup? I think it would be a good addition to this thread

Thanks for the info! the ej22e i have seems to run ok with the iac from the ej25d i took out. yaya. only downer is that it seems my ej22e, based on the smoke from the exhaust now that i ran it with coolant in it, and the now lack of coolant, has a leaky headgasket too. F*** Me! (i previously started it up without coolant but only ran it for maybe 15-20 seconds just to see if it would fire, i made sure i had oil in tho, lol) im gonna do the HG's on the ej22 and run that, keep the ej25d in the garage, and maybe pick up another set of ej22e heads (i know where some are locally) and over time do a frankenmotor. unless of course i pull the ej22 apart and its just f'd lookin inside. i like the idea of being able to take the heads off without disturbing the valve cover gaskets and ************.

i've used an impact gun with my spring compressors with no failure, i usually try to use my air ratchet instead tho, but when they are pretty compressed it wants to torque the ratchet out my hand, doh. with the spring compressors, i would say to alternate sides more than its probably convenient to. just to keep the pressure even on both sides

this is looking great cant wait to see the finished product!

i'd drill a couple holes and plug weld them too, to the shaft thats inside the tubeing

wow, that thing looks huge, but sure is functional. to large for my taste, but nice job making it work! i think i would trim is so the rear cupholders go voer the top of the seat so the ebrake isnt hidden as much.

this is the only pic i had, but i did similar to what you did, i found a slide out one on the ground by chance at the junkyard and trimmed my radio bezel for it to fit, i keep the am/fm stock radio because i dont really listen to radio and i have a nice fm transmitter (Harmon Kardon Drive+Play) which with the lower recpetion power of the radio works GREAT on ANY channel in my town. you can kinda see it in this pic, lost the other pics

thats funny that you stated that, i was just reading something about that and did it. so the hose run, starts at the solenoid valve under the IM, goes thru the smaller metal line loops to the other line and that exits by the fuel lines.

well, my repair seemed to work, i just tried it on the basement floor without the glass, but it moved around like it should, i need to find some super lube for the track tho, just to make sure its all slick. whats the best kinda lube for a sunroof track?

i suppose it would probably just be easy enough to get the motor centered just by popping the roof in the upward position (or making it think its doing that, then bring it back down to the closed position, then reinstall the glass brackets and track into the car so that i can attach the glass in its closed position, then stick the motor in.. i'll try to document the procedure if i can remember to do so, sometimes i just get into the project and forget all about taking a few pics

i'll try to get some pictures this afternoon 99 and 98 should be the same, the parts i got from the junkyard were from a 98 and are identical to what i have in my 99.

so i tore down and re connected the sunroof cables to the glass mount brackets of my broken sunroof, (99 LGT Sedan) what position should the window be in before reinstalling the motor? is there anything more to it than just getting the motor to the closed position, and positioning the glass brackets to the close position? i didnt see any real markings and couldnt find anything in the fsm about it.

the ej25 one is a bit larger, the mounting holes wont even line up with the ej22 ones. im betting a coil pack is a pocket item at my local jy while im grabbing a few other items, it seems pretty pocketable (this JY is pretty spendy, so gotta get yer moneys worth.) i'll hit you up if i cant find one.

my HF goods and bads: good experiences: 6-Ton Hydraulic Jack has been a real trooper $13 spring compressors have given me no problems, have been used atleast a dozen times probably more. 4" angle grinder/cutoff tool has had no issues. 90 amp flux core welder has worked out just fine, my welding skills/dicipline arent the best, but the welder hasnt failed in any way. i had a 8 gal air compressor for 10 yrs before the tank drain rusted (i NEVER drained it in the time in owned it. shame on me) 26 Gal compressor is working just fine when powered by the proper 20 amp circuit, 15 amp is just a tad small for it. which is stated in the instructions. all air tools purchased work well, brad/finish nailer, air ratchet, scaler, bought but havent tried the auto body work flanger yet. propane torch pistol grip handle has been great, kinda wish it was a little smaller if anything. Bad/not so great: piezo torch, it melted on first use, but then it was $3. 1st 26 Gal compressor, cooked motor, but it was my fault, knowingly used it on a non dedicated 15 amp circuit, pump kicked on while i was welding LOL 12 ton Pipe bender. it works, but search the net for ways to improve it for better results. thinwall pipe will kink if not filled with sand and capped