carpyblue

Piston slap? How common is that in a EA82 motor? I have a 1988 Subaru with a knocking noise. It goes away after the engine is warmed up.

My 88 Subaru has no juice going to the fuel pump. I unhooked the computer, found the blue/black wire on #47 that goes to the fuel pump relay then to the fuel pump. I then ran a test probe from the battery to the connect wire, and then the fuel pump ran just fine. There is no signal coming out of the ECU. Fuses are intact, I checked. That was my experience.

There is no juice (NOW) going to the fuel injector. There was the other day. I do not know what happened. Will check fuses (AGAIN).

I did not check spark at all 4 plugs. I did put new rotor, new plugs, new cap, and new spark plug wires on it. The iHigh Tension lead on the gnition coil is slightly out of specs according to the ohmeter, but it is still sending spark out. I will change out the fuel injector today. I slightly undid a fuel line and got lots of fuel. The fuel line has lots of pressure and I was careful.

It is firing now on starting fluid, but will not stay running. The distributor timing was off a little bit. I will be looking at the fuel delivery part again tomorrow.

It is fixed now. It was no. 12 fuse under the dash. I should of checked first before posting.

Both belts are good and in time. I pulled the timing cover ends off. Check engine light is not one. I have cleared the codes. It blinks 5 short flashes now. There is 4 wires going to the distributor. One wire does have juice with the 12 volt tester, I believe it was the green one. The wiring colors change after the connector.

I pulled the spark plugs, it is not flooded. It will not fire even on starting fluid. but, I will try the carb cleaner.

It is showing codes 11 and 13, crank angle sensor. Another post said those were Ghost codes. I was driving the car when it suddenly died on me. No hiccuping, no coughing, no sputtering. The spark plugs are sparking, the distributor is firmly in, the screw in the rotor is in. I looked down the throttle body, it is getting fuel, the fuel ignier is working/clicking. We suspect it is a short or open in the wiring somewhere around the distributor or coil. Timing belts did not break and they are in time. I put in a different distributor too. The fuel ignitor has been also changed out.There have been no recent repairs to the car. It has about 190,000 miles on it.

The first time I tested the ignition coil, it was 11.88 volts at both - and + terminals about 2 weeks ago with a slightly depleted battery. This morning after charging up the new battery, the coil tests at 6.06 volts both - and + terminals. What could be going on here?

John KY : I saw the ground wire for the coil and cleaned it. Timing belts not broken, distributor turns, Has Spark and Gas. Thanks for all the replys, I will start a new no start post. The Subaru Dealer here charges $120 an hour. Trying to do this myself.

1988 Subaru GL SPFI, Manual Transmission, Selective 4 wheel drive, has the lo-hi lever. There is a transistor under the Ignition Coil. The number on it is HF 8311. It looks like it is wired into the ignition coil. Do not understand it's purpose and could it cause a vehicle to stop running? My Subaru repair manuals don't go into this. thanks.

1988 Subaru GL SPFI, Manual Transmission, Selective 4 wheel drive, has the lo-hi lever. There is a transistor under the Ignition Coil. The number on it is HF 8311. It looks like it is wired into the ignition coil. Do not understand it's purpose and could it cause a vehicle to stop running? My Subaru repair manuals don't go into this. thanks.

I will check the u joint. The knock only happens when it is in motion and in 2 wheel drive under load. No knock when it is stopped or coasting. I forgot I posted this, too many other things going on here, I appreciate the answers, thank you.

Anyway, at least I believe it is a knock. At first I thought it was Piston Slap in the motor. A Subaru Mechanic told me piston slap was not common with these motors. It is a 1988 Subaru GL 4 wheel drive wagon. It has the selective 4 wheel drive. It is not full time 4 wheel drive. The knock is most noticeable when cold and then gets better as it warms up. This happens when it is in 2 wheel drive. When I shift it into 4 wheel drive the knock disappears completely. Yes, I checked the oil and it is not discolored and does not leak. Any ideas out there?