Ricearu

the EJ25d makes decent power in stock form but really doesn't come around until 3500+ RPM, the 2.2 heads keep the bottom end torque band up and don't really choke out in the top end. It is a great street driven motor, but I would run at LEAST 89 octane gas in it. My roommate runs 93 octane in his.

there is alot of info, especially on "the" frankenmotor thread on nasioc. what one can get out of a "stock" frankie, is maybe 175chp. That is NOT AWHP The stock 2.5 makes about 165, and is peaky. With the EJ22 heads, it loses it peakyness and gains a bump in compression. Cometic gaskets makes a great set of conversion gaskets for this build. they have the bore size of the 2.5 with the coolant ports of the 2.2. and they are the correct thickness at .040 in. too thin and the pistons will hit the heads on an EJ25D. The pistons clear the deck sometimes called "peeping tom" pistons.

don't lug your 25D. if it's 5 speed that is. That will super accelerate upper rod bearing wear. Ask my wife.

before you tackle this job, what plugs and wires did you get? stick with NGK plugs and NGK/DEALER wires or you will do them again soon.

i too have mated many a stubborn engine/trans together like that. sometimes you just gotta lube it up and force it in.

they do come prepacked. some people prefer to pack more grease in there. I have never packed one myself and never have had a problem from it.

the thermostat may not be opening all the way, not allowing for enough coolant flow under load here is the pic of the difference. the meaty manly awesome looking one on the right is a "subaru" fuji heavy industries made one

i have used the nissan pump works NPW pumps before. I always go aisin... but htat is just me. On the EA82, I was able to source a paraut water pump (OEM)

its 300k kilometers. which is roughly 180k... maybe. install a dealer thermostat or stant xact thermostat and try again. DONT use a parts store thermostat. worst case scenario, you have peace of mind on the thermostat.

I hate them. Don't get me wrong but they do run a long time even thought people torture the crap out of them.

when i bought mine, the gas pedal was bent halfway to the floor. I mean it. I had a friend "floor it" with the engine off and i went around and opened the throttle the other half way. I reached down and grabbed the gas pedal and gave it a pull up until it was level with the brake pedal and the car doubled in horsepower. just a thought. But they are kinda dogs. Mine would smoke the hell out of the front tires in fwd. or at least one of them.

it uses a subaru proprietary gearbox and differential set up. The viscous center differential is non serviceable. and the clutch can handle a low tire for time, it's just people who think that their car is an appliance that only needs oil changes, that burn out center diffs. there is no "transfer case" on any subaru ever made from the factory. The entire unit is in the transaxle and highly reliable. If you want an appliance automobile that is quiet and perfect, buy a chevy malibu. They are super boring.

you can swap in the trans and rear diff from the lego, use the pedal assembly and clutch cable, and shifter assy from the impreza. the outback came dohc 2.5 in the auto and manuals came I THINK 2.2 and later 2.5 until 1999. the sohc started in 2000. I would avoid the 2.5 at 120k plus like the PLAGUE.

Tick tock goes the head gasket clock... unless its a 2.2 If it's a 2.5 DOHC, let them keep it.

im glad to offer input. I flip cars so I know how a power washer, steam cleaner and shop vac can take 10 years out of an interior. A buffer and clay bar will do the outside. I would start with a impreza NA with 1.8 or 2.2. any turbo cars of the GL series are generally awful, and EJ25's before 05 are known for head gaskets blowing. I have personally rebuilt one of those "paper mache" transmissions. They are a pain. Be careful

It's been modified. I would have a Subaru dealer do an inspection on it. ALL THE WAY DOWN TO THE HEAD GASKET coolant "block test". It may cost you $100, but IF it saves you a nightmare THEN it's money well spent. And if everything checks out, then it's peace of mind. If the dealer won't let you do it, then WALK AWAY. I am leery about giving buying advice on a car that has been modified. Not always, but it usually means some kid thought it was a race car... :-\

i use wix. they make alot of filters for alot of companies. I think they make the pureone and the napa gold

maybe some of the head bolts are through oil galleys? :-\

I got this thread confused with another with a 95 wagon with bad rear wheel bearing sorry. yeah bolt on hub assembly is a piece of cake.

most independant shops that don't SPECIALIZE in subarus will warp the knuckle. not all but, the dealer has all the right stuff to do it.

what kind of head gaskets are you using?

we went with the hard break in.

DAAANG!!!

we stuck a frankie as we now call it, in my roommate's postal wagon. With stock cams, it has more low end torque than the 2.2 but is sort of a dog until about 3k. That is just the way the motor is I guess... EJ's have always wanted to be thrashed.