Ricearu

I believe the switchover for impreza's was 05, I could be wrong but I am pretty damn sure that the 05 stuff wont fit my car but some 04 will... but 02-03 does fit the hubs for sure. The top hats are different on the rears for 90-91 (93-01 prez and 90-91 legos have the same rear top hats) but are direct drop in for 92-94 and all 2nd gen lego's. My roommate had these exact struts on his 95 postal RHD but sold them to me because he wanted more aggressive drop and bigger wheels. aka coilovers... too bad he put his stockies back on

im going with collapsed hla's. did you pump them in oil before installing or did the machine shop do that? If they didn't oil soak them/pump them, then they are down and "should" pump up before too long

crappy aftermarket thermostat isn't opening all the way and under load cannot flow enough coolant to keep it cool. get one from the dealer or get the stant "exactstat" from rockauto.com

hopefully this year the income tax fairy grants my my wish of Impreza coilovers.

i used 2002-2003 wrx kyb red struts and stock wrx springs, swapped the top hats on the rears, although, I need to relook at them because the struts make the bushings come loose in the top hats and knock like hell. I'm thinking making a spacer to take up the slack They dropped my car around 1.5" You can use GF/GC impreza struts or coil overs. BOLT IN 100% here is my car before/after handles like a MONSTER now though, even with the light knock from the rears. It took 3-5k miles to start knocking the rears.

I too have done this on a 1.8l Impreza crank pulley, except we didn't machine/file it. It was some of the most back woods stuff I have ever done. I bought a new (used junkyard) crank pulley and got the new key with it too. This poor car had huge pile of miles on it and was run ragged. It literally was a $300 car. I replaced the water pump, timing belt, and idlers, put the new key in place, filled in all the wallowed area of the crank with JB and impacted the pulley/balancer on with my snap on MG725 LIKE A BOSS. Let it sit for 2 days, my friend put i think 40k on it like that before a ROD let go. He drove the dog $H!t out of it too. He sold it for $200 and it still ran. clack clack clack clack clack

make sure you do that timing belt. it's interference and will trash the valves if the belt breaks. also, like someone else said, replace the idlers and tensioner too. Also, subaru recommends a valve adjustment at 105k with the belts, which is shims so take it to a SUBARU specific shop or dealer only. They don't have "adjusters" built in. :-\

lemme know how that turns out because I am looking to do the same on my 91 Lego.

if they used chain store gaskets, they could possibly be leaking. OEM only one the headgaskets GD, thanks for the info, I used to use stant's on my old chevys that the dealer didn't stock anymore. Im glad to know they decided to make some quality tstats to fill the market void

my legacy played "which gauge will/won't work today" on the drive from family's house. Speedo is out, cable broke a couple of weeks back, Coolant Temp Gauge would bounce between non working and working, and the CEL would come on about 10-20 minutes into driving after taking off (even from gas station)

+1 check hoses also, on your thermostat woes, replace what is in there with a DEALER subaru OEM thermostat. Almost every aftermarket brand of T-stat is made in israel pakistan etc. The part stores sell them as "oem quality replacements" My left foot... Go with japanese OEM and if your dealer sucks, order it from another dealer and have it shipped. After all the crap I have been through, I WILL NOT buy another parts house TSTAT. Even my ford truck just got a motorcraft tstat.

I would rent a car. I would run a compression test also. Running for a LONG time on 3 cylinders is abusive to the crankshaft also. I wouldn't do it. Catalytic converters catch fire over crap like that. Bare minimum, if I had to destroy my car to drive it to see family, run the compression test and unplug the injector from the dead cylinder to avoid the catalytic converter overheat. You can still make it worse by driving it.

+1 on the rotor screw. even if the timing belts are there, have a friend crank it while you check to see if the driver's side belt is turning the cam. My GL stripped teeth off the belt on the freeway, but didn't snap the belt. so it looked normal, just didn't have any teeth around the crank sprocket to turn

my gl, my 90 lego, and clay's 95 postal keys all start each other with a little finnagling. I will have to make a video of this. it's pretty awesome. although the forester doesn't like to play our games with it's fat key... lame.

yes glue the paper to the glass with a THIN coat of contact cement. I have lapped heatsinks this way before back in the overclocking days. Back when every bit of heat dissipation counted when eeeking another 133mhz out of my pentium 2

i get between 22 and 23 in my legacy. I drive like a tool though. I got 31.5mpg in my GL driving really conservatively. I got 44mpg in my GL while running my HHO set up but I had to trick the o2 to think that it was running rich so it would cut back fuel, which I replaced with hydrogen. No ping or detination. Looking to set up the same system on my lego now. hoping for a conservative driven 35+ but I need a EFIE O2 simulator so the computer doesn't think too much. Burning hydrogen increases the oxygen content of the exhaust, so the ECU thinks that the engine is lean, and increases the fuel making worse fuel consumption.

Mindless self indulgence. or grime and bass, or dubstep I love heavy wha wha bass while wrenching on an ej. i also love the odd sounds of MSI while working on the GL,

dear god. It's more common down here in texas and arizona but it always makes me sad to see it happen. No insurance or license and drunk as a skunk. No care for other's lives or even his children, only his chemical addiction. I wish they still HANGED people... or death by flamethrower

how are the bearings? one of your tensioners/idlers may be failing, causing the whine, and the old belt to break.

the ej swap makes more power and does it without a turbo, in fact you can reliably turbo an ej22 to about 5psi for more fun. ea82t's are ticking time bombs.

rotary guys use a higher ratio. it saves the apex seals and face seals. my friend had an 84 rx-7 and he used 1oz per gallon. it smelled AND sounded like a leaf blower

Sinking at a stop, under light braking (not enough to fully expand cup seals) is a clear indicator of a failing master cylinder. look into that soon, because if the primary circuit is dead, you could be stopping mainly using the rear (secondary) circuit. get this checked soon. oh and one more thing, pick a new dealer as that one should be fired. the whole service department. check to see if your car is under a recall. my forester was under brake master recall.

if you wrap it in tape, use a hose clamp over the tape to keep it from blowing off. I have done this before. also, if you are in a pinch and overheated, ask a restaurant for hot water. that way you can get water and NOT damage the engine because your pouring in 140* water, not 67* water.

i successfully ran rotella t 15w-40 in my 88 gl for years. lots of miles on old engine, drove it for a very long time with bad head gaskets. no bottom end troubles. I put 36k on used engine with rotella without a single TOD... I use rotella t in my 90 legacy with high mileage

they should have lots of resistance for the most part. the valves in them wear out and don't seal any more or actuate.