Ricearu

i mean poor head/intake design. I was thinking merc 300d turbo. give it a proper tune up and go from there.

what he said, just use dealer headgaskets. I have never used fel-pro on a ej at all, and I never will.

you can test the tps by going from ground to the signal wire with a meter (back probe with key on) this requries a digital voltmeter because it's 5v so test light won't help have a friend slowly apply throttle key on engine off, and the voltage should steadlily and linearly go up or down. I don't remember on loyale's but it should be around 5v at idle and decreasing to 0 as throttle is applied but i could be thinking ej's or just backwards. if your meter dips to 0 or jumps to 5 during the sweep test, in the same "cruising" throttle location, definately replace just fyi, your merc diesel may have had 69hp but tq rating is around 140 which is 50lbs more that the scoob and at hella low rpms. the ea82 is slow as dirt. the dead spot you feel after 4k is probobly flow restriction. I DD an 88gl wagon (same car with spfi) for 2+ years. they're slow.

10 bucks says subaru hybrid would be a toyota callabo. screw that. at least it would look prettier than a prius. the only reason subaru is jumping on the hybrid train is to appeal to the "eco" crowd and get those incentives and tax breaks and breaks with stupid CAFE regs and such. Honestly if subaru has to produce a hybrid so that the CAFE regulations don't snuff out the FUEL THIRSTY STI, then I am ok with it. I just won't buy one. as rock-sauce as boxer diesel's are, they don't get subaru any CAFE reg brownie points.

ask around here for a mechanic that could do it for you. don't take it to a shop. first change the thermostat with a DEALER thermostat and have a look. also autozone rents out a "block test" kit that you only have to buy test strips for. it just tests the coolant for combustion gases. they give you back the money when you return it. you may also be low on coolant, so research "burping" the system and do so. soon.

i would just ratchet strap the rear of the driveshaft through the doors just off to the side. it's like an ej in that it has a carrier bearing that won't let it come out of the transmission. I wouldn't want to let out the fluid and all that because inertia will make more come out unless it's completely drained and that is just too much work.

the maf will cause chain codes. including all 4 cyl misfires, fuel trim bank 1 map. you name it. I would try swapping it for known good if you can find one to borrow. I have yet to see a (non flood) car suddenly throw 11 codes over wiring. I just went through this with my forester. how new is your fuel filter? I had one break up on me and cause low fuel pressure and throw a ton of codes too.

l would start with the maf sensor. unplug it and see if it does any better. it may not but worth a shot. I have been through the MAF debacle

simple simple. check your ball joints. they clunk wierd like going across uneven terrain or only once when turning into a inclined driveway. sometimes they will only have movement front to rear, or even like another person said, up and down but not in and out. they are weird. they are also pretty cheap...

edmunds.com lists it for $9,429 but that is considering it had 12k miles per year for the last 7 years. Which is 84k. so deduct some for mileage. I would see paying around 9 for it, but that depends on its condition. and factor in that it needs a timing belt/ pulleys and waterpump service at 105k, which is kinda pricey, also that it will almost certainly need headgaskets between 130k-150k. even sooner if it has been overheated. Like durania said, look in the coolant bottle for brown gunk. also under the radiator cap (cold engine!). any grit/brown gunk/gas smell from the radiator and suspect it needs head gaskets

50mph under load... is it consuming water? even small trace amounts is it boiling back into the bottle even when not "over" heated?

electric radiator fan. clutch fan. go dealer only on the thermostat. also backflush your radiator and use a/c coil cleaner on the outside of it, it will remove alot of the oxidization from the outside of the radiator

grab some used struts and springs from a wrx that someone converts to coilovers. usually they can be had for around 200 for all 4. it sits a hair lower and rides rather sporty after! I did this with mine. although if you have a 90-91 you will need to swap on your rear top hats.

duh guess I should have read that. lol hit it with 320 grit before you paint it. some spray paint (thinner) recomment 4-600 but i sanded down my outback limited wheels with 320 and 2 coats gold and 2 coats clear and they came out friggen sweet the scratches are where clay, my roommate raped them with a chain. He took them to get tires for me, and decided while in town to go to the junk yard so he chained them into the back of his truck. they had not had the required 3-4 days to dry. oh well cant hardly tell unless you look hard

if it's popping when engine braking that is pretty normal. I love it when my car does it! I still get a bum bum sound when I rev and let off.

that sounds right out of the textbook from lincoln tech:lol: ( I KNOW I graduated from there) dont drain the compressor. I have never drained any compressor in a conversion. the r-12 oil is inert to the system and won't leave the compressor! Just add R-134 oil accordingly after you vacuum the system down. protect the compressor, don't let any dirt get in there and keep it upright. then replace EVERY o ring with the green/yellow 134 safe o rings. replace the drier with a 143 compatible drier and orifice tube with a 134 orifice tube

i had a set years ago. they came on a BEAT TO HELL impreza wagon we dubbed the dentaru. I painted them bronze! it looked bossome!

i paid 650 for my 90. had 180k and new clutch and front axles. if it has 80k on the timing belt, do it immediately. 60k is the rating. ticking time bomb i would pay 800 tops for it if it looks better than mine did when i bought it

and the award for most unreliable subaru goes to!!!! i wouldn't HAUL a monza engine in my subaru, just in fear that my car might catch a case of the corvairs! im harsh but im an old vw guy and the corvair engines did not stand the test of time. they are downright unreliable im told. just slap an ej22 in it and be done. sell the corvair monza engine (for a pretty fat stack) and do the RELIABLE ej conversion also the soob engine bay is not suited for air cooled engines as far as cross flow is concerned, but anything is possible likely your "noisy" ea82 is just TOD and needs an oil pump reseal and cam tower reseal complete with "o" rings. I wouldn't rebuild an EA, just reseal it and be good to go.

clear coat them to keep them cleaner since you attacked them with steel wool

last time we called for availability they said out of stock. he would have to pull his rack and send it to them... :-\ and kristjan I forgot iceland was lhd lol

my roommate needs a RHD 90-98 legacy steering rack REALLY BAD. its undrivable and the dealer wants a pile of money for a new one. when I say a pile of money i mean it.

rusted impeller on water pump or crappy thermostat. head gaskets are RARELY suspect on ej22's, that was only on ej25's. replace thermostat with a DEALER ONLY thermostat and try again. if not, look at water pump. you could get a block test done to test for combustion gases in the coolant

my money is on bad lockout switch or switch assy. disassemble the master switch and clean all the little copper contacts.

i friggen love my 90 legacy L. i was an ea guy (88 gl) and mine kept breaking and i bought this legacy and have never been happier.