Ricearu

check pepboys for the pads. they are closing out all hawk brake pads so mine cost me 21 for the fronts and 16 for the rears also last night i fixed my "jdm" tail lights with red spray. pep boys had RED VHT Niteshades. FTW! Now I need to paint the center panel to match... and yes the brake parts bolt right up.

front outback twin pot calipers/turned rotors new(er) rear disks with good (non flaky rust) rotors cleaned and prepped all calipers cleaned and painted red (rust preventer) new hawk brake pads all around new valvoline brake fluid in flush stops on dimes and looks good through the OBL wheels!

make sure your dad pays UNDER market value true market value not some kelly bluebook B.S. http://www.edmunds.com/used-cars/

just junk that driver side turbo and go single... if you don't you will regret it. googe the infamous words valley of death... http://www.dirtyolbc.co.nz/community/topic/487-the-single-conversion-thread-30/

mine has 188k on it and consumes about that. about a quart every 1200 miles but i drive hard. although, on your next oil change, substitute a quart of oil for a quart of Lucas oil stabilizer. my friend's Saturn (old smokey) went from a mosquito fogging quart every 400 miles to a quart every 1000 miles and no "visible" smoke. same with my first 1993 legacy that had 245k miles. it almost used NO oil after Lucas.

its not the clutch, its cylinder leakdown. there is half the cylinders as your f150

so your car parts and all could not be sold for $900? I would heavily weigh the buyback... but that's just me.:-\ you could find a dead (headgasket or blown engine) legacy for around a $1000 or less and be $600 up for your labor.

my forester has done this since I got it... 14k miles strong... rev it to 2200 rpm, it doesn't do it. if you think about it, headlights pull about 10a, blower motor on hi is probably close to that and the brake lights are going to pull about 5a plus a few amps for engine control, and a few for running lights... also, now it's summer and if the a/c is running, you have a small draw at the compressor and the ALWAYS running alternate fan pulling 7-10a. at idle your alternator only makes about half it's rated capacity or so my vote is with normal operation of vehicle unless they dim a crapload or the battery won't stay up. also if you want to check for hokey rectifier, then check for ac voltage at the battery. FSM gives a max spec. this generally will point out leaking diodes in the trio. edit, also if the clutch is in or in neutral, your at idle. think about that. that's the least efficient speed for the alternator

the first time I did it, I was using mcguire's all over my dash and column and hit it. It took like an hour to figure it out. only did i see it because subaru painted the rocker to show red when on!

Not possible for a water pump. i say first thing you do if/when you buy it is clean the IAC and do a NGK plugs and OEM dealer wires and see how that does. Subaru fuel pumps usually fail one way...... Hummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm....dead maybe another option beyond that is bad fpr... brother's wrx did that so we replaced fuel pump... with a walbro 255... real smart. we THEN checked the fuel pressure and it had 130PSI!!!!!!

add me to the "no cover" list. im glad I never put mine back on

the connectors are closer to the door than the steering column there is a pair of green and a pair of black next to each other. just did my 90 the other day

im about to do the same thing but i too need a 93-94. the local cheap yard has 92

he may be associating gurgle pops in the exhaust.when my car pops in the exhaust i get giddy and downshift and engine brake to make it do it more! mmmmmmmaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa-pa pa pa aaaaa paaaaa paaa:)

is that burnt clutch i smell just messin. nice lil rig you got started there

take it to caboobaru because it is a conversion. he does a LOT of those alignments. friends are great but people who know the car through and through are better. Take that into account. and he will give you a discount too. you cannot set that car to stock subaru rx settings. :-\

if your state law (besides california) prohibits the use of lap belts with booster seats, run without one. that is all. just like I don't have to use a car seat or booster with the kiddo in my 67 chevy. no belts

or sell it and buy an 88. no liability then if something bad should happen. my 88 gl came with shoulder belts but I clamped the belt because there is no locking mechanism when you pull it all the way out like a newer vehicle...

yep. long term solution my method exactly. wetsand with 600 (if it's real bad) 800 if its not) wetsand with 1000 clean and dry headlight tape off area for overspray the lens should be very white and cloudy (make sure you sand off all the yellowness) Paint the lens with a UV safe, non yellowing clear coat. GLOSS. I used krylon. let the clear dry, and remove the tape and masking. the clear coat will fill the scratches and level out and make it so smooth you will not need to buff them at all

i have a MS2 for my 67 tpi chevy truck, it has a map on board.

also, if your oil seperator plate is plastic, replace it for a steel or aluminum one from the dealer. the plastic one will warp. period.

that was my first thought, but my wife got REALLY defensive when I told her I would stick the outback 15" wheels on her forester S and I would take her aluminum 16"s :lol:

my legacy is from kansas and it has WAYYY more rust than I am used to... im kinda spoiled down here. dont get me wrong, my 68 chevy is a pile of rust, but most cars hold together really well.

I would change it. heck if you look at it in that respect, the water pump is cheaper than JUST the tow to the shop that still has yet to ream you for bent valve replacement. I won't do a timing belt without idlers and water pump.