Ricearu

what do you need?

got my outback 5 spokes painted a very subtle gold and having them wrapped with 195/50-15's today. This ought to be good! I will post pics with them on when I install them this evening!

I might go into the business of cutting wheel wells and arches and such out of cars at the junk yards here in texas. rarely ever do I see rotted soobs down here. The last rusty subaru I saw down here still had studded tires on it so I KNOW it wasn't from around these parts. I know were there is an impreza wagon right now that has 2 good rear quarters. only problem is they don't allow powertools out there.... :-\ I have a sand blasting rig and could ship the parts already stripped and in primer like a pro shop!

replaced evap solenoid and knock sensor with junkyard parts and glazed the bad spots on my 15" outback wheels, then primed them. Now, for final primer sand and paint! if the weather and relatively low humidity hold this evening.

ha i never thought about that. that's gettin done this weekend. and the wife wanted me to toss those old cases... HA!

shiesty dallas roads took my fogs from me... :-\ both of them. and yeah my dogs are EJ - mother was pit/father was Jack Russel terrier 7 months old (he is liver aka yellow eyes and fur and lacking pigment on nose and ears) Frau - AKC German shepherd - 11 weeks old (typical German shepherd colors)

thanks. they are just a cheap set of ebay one's. I can't afford hellas

FOGS! I didn't like them that far apart so I moved them inside one more predrilled hole ( those bolts that hold the bumper skin on sure are good for stuff! Even EJ, my dog agreed! some "yard" shots

yeah, my gl with rear disk conversion, has 195/60-16's, with raybestos rotors up front, turned OEM rears, and all 4 corners have raybestos organic pads. It will straight lock all 4 up on a good panic stop:) I like brakes...

switch to organic pads. your rotors will last alot longer too.

pulled a isuzu trooper (heavy rump roast square body) with my 88gl pulled some trucks and other soobs and a jeep out of the mud with the gl also. also pulled a motor home (giant heavy cow) with frozen brakes with a v6 dodge pickup. pulled overloaded truck and trailer with same v6 dodge to dallas for scrap many times Pull (still do occasionally) a 16ft utility trailer with the forester:)

me and roommate drove to BFE to cannibalize a 98 OBW. He got the scoopy hood, I got the outback limited wheels and front brakes. He was jealous of my sexy brakes so we went to Pick N Pull and got him some big brakes too! My tires are too big for the wrx shocks so I won't be upgrading the brakes until I get me some smaller 15" tires for my ob rims (currently on 14"s that wont fit over the twin-pots my wheels look like these http://www.cheapusedcarsbyowner.com/detail/1998-Subaru-Legacy-Outback-Limited-Wagon-4D-CDHURUHaUCRHaCDRUDsa.html

grabbed a map sensor at junkyard this morning while getting a knock sensor and evap solenoid for my car. threw it on and VIOLA! no more chug chug.:banana:

bump. at whits end

even if the sensor says its bad, the "safe" timing isn't that bulletproof. Mine still gets spark knock under load.

I am aware of the clutch safety switch but the cruise system uses the neutral switch to make sure someone doesn't push it out of gear and it rev itself to death.

THAT'S WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT!!!! ATTA BOY!! Don't replace, UPGRADE!!!!

what? some maniac bozo crazed drug addict totally trashed his roof in the middle of the night

map won't show on my scanner but TPS is smooth as glass. did a voltage sweep on it and it is linear. :-\ I may need to call in the pros on this one... i sure don't want to take it to the dealer...

if the valves were hitting pistons, I would assume you would only hear that sound once before it no longer ran. make sure the tensioner isn't slapping. or timing belt isn't too slack.

Forester threw a maf sensor code a couple of weeks back, about the same time it started doing this chug chug chug under load. Needless to say I ASSUMED a new MAF would fix it. Got "new" MAF in yesterday and have been monitoring codes for a short while now while waiting on funds for new maf and for the maf to come in the mail. Here's the rub, I threw the new maf on last night and same crap. It's hard to describe other than a cyclic misfire feeling that doesn't happen "every" revolution. its more like a heavy hesitation that comes and goes in rhythm. Looking at my live data before on my scanner, the maf readings were going bonkers... steady under low load. Guess it was just rpm related. Ignition timing is steady through this ordeal too. My second thought was counting knock, but not that I can tell because timing isn't retarding according to live data... The last 2 times I pulled codes last night/last week I got a DTC for long term fuel trim bank 1. Last night when I pulled codes, I got cyl3 and cyl4 misfire but had no bucking to back it up. No o2 codes and my scanner has graph and output looks good on both o2 sensors. I'm stumped. new fuel filter a while back, new NGK plug wires, new NGK plugs. No codes concerning CKP, or CMP sensors.

DO IT!!! then you have something to dispose of said drug addict's lifeless body in!

if I am correct, they have a neutral safety on the transmission for cruise and stuff. mine threw this code, my cruise didn't work, and would start without pushing in clutch so Im pretty sure thats why

if you use NTN 6207 bearings, they come sealed and there is no need to pack the grease, also the grease inside has been through rigerous testing to be enough to not force out. I have 35k on my new NTN's and never touched grease, also, I never disconnected the ball joint or tie rod, I just popped the strut out and removed the brake caliper, its bracket and the brake rotor. on car is MUCH faster.

little bit for you here, I use these for wiring honda ruckus ignition switches to work with chinese 150cc engine harnesses. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049722 darn good information though! and good write up!