Ricearu

+1 :-\

wow, looking at it, kind of makes me want a convertible xt. now where is me an xt, the sawz-all is ready!

the front wheel bearings are common and can be "punched" out and back in with a brass punch. I went to a bearing supply and paid 10.50 each for NTN GOOD quality bearings no china junk. The bearing number is 6207 if i remember correctly and the axle is only $60. it took me two hours (lots of cigarette breaks) to do both front axles, wheel bearings and pads/rotors while there on the front of my GL... Get your buddies together and some beer. screw that $1300 noise...

I would use the box end wrench if possible. if it can't reach, THEN use a o2 socket.

all those sti goodies fit on foresters too!

buy it back and find a clean shell and then just swap away! I wouldn't just let it go like that.

and install a main ground disconnect somewhere handy in case it does get out of hand. that way you don't keep heating the same wire. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_21064_21064

I am not really a BFGAT guy, but if these perform as well as they look.... I saw them at walmart the other day and thought in my head about the forester.... :lol: they look like (by tread design) that they would be somewhat acceptable (better than bfg) in a mud condition if someone were to be "un"fortunate enough to have to go through some to get where he needed to be http://www.goodyeartires.com/tire/wrangler-duratrac/

mine fit in the GL with only one rear seat back flipped down. my tools and subs fit next to it. just fold the legs up and have a buddy lift the front from inside while you push at the back.

alot of people ask the same question because there is NO center diff. just a hard mechanical connection. when I got my GL i went through the same thing. i had a tire that was odd size. a full set of new tires and I was good to go. also if it is binding in dry in a STRAIGHT line, fix the problem because it will make it unpredictable and dangerous in the snow/ice if you need to use 4wd only early soob I have ever owned to have "ghost walk" on ice was my GL with mismatched tire in 4wd in snow.

try using a little bit of force into park. and make sure it locks into park key off. as in the shifter won't go back to reverse or neutral with key off. this is also a theft deterrent locking the car into park until you put the key in and start it next time

it was only able to ground through the speedo cable. wow that will wonk some stuff out! congrats with a banana dance!

towed an aluminum john boat with johnson 9.9 on it with a GL. I could lift the trailer tongue single handed. there was no jack, only a kick stand on the tongue. I probobly wouldn't tow a fiberglass heavy boat.

double

the same "everyone" probably tell you to use fel-pros. Subaru spent MILLIONS of dollars finding a fix for the hg issue. i will take it rather than some gasket company only "printing" the head onto a composite or steel sheet.

remove #13 and spray into the ALUMINUM throttle body. have a friend crank it or hold the idle up. it *can* run with this disconnected, it just won't be happy. but it should be fine for just a minute or two. sell the battery. give it away even. it won't be worth jack when you get back. I would drain all gas out. every last drop. if this will be outdoors, I would take all the tires off, let the air down to about 10psi and store them in a shed or garage or even attic. My grandpa has a set of 13 year old trailer tires that look new with no dry rot. he keeps the tires in the barn and once every few years he HOSES them down with PB'laster. It keeps the rubber "wet" and healthy. its worked thus far. they only have about 3k miles on them lol I personally would take the weight off the suspension. by the time you get back, your outback my sit higher because of steel memory lol

NO WAY would I trade my 2.2 for a 2.5. The rock solid reliability is with the 2.2l. I can't remember the last time I personally saw a 2.2 with a blown headgasket. I would put timing belt, idlers, tensioner, water pump and seals/gaskets on the front of that engine (and valve covers) and drive it a lot longer. and anyone who owns a subaru and pays $1500 for a timing belt, wp and reseal needs to find another mechanic. I like the buddies and beer idea instead. just that one buddy has to wait till the job is done before HE gets beer! the cat is the only thing that will cost you a pretty penny but you could go on ebay and buy a direct fit aftermarket (magnaflow and carsound are decent and well priced) and put it on yourself. The last cat i priced for someone direct fit was $184 with free shipping bottom line. keep it. I could always fly up and take it off your hands.

5mt! 5mt! if your lady friend can't drive standard, learn her! I can't isn't an excuse to drive auto. all my wife will drive now is MT cars. she does want a tribeca but they only come auto so we haven't bought one. I spose when we need third row she might break down and drive an autotragic...

NGK plug wires from http://www.rockauto.com are a great fit and high japanese quality. I would RETURN the BWD's and get my money back. That is a load. I would replace the O2 and go from there

and to think, it took mercedes millions of dollars to come up with what you just did that is funny that yours was white on blue!

driving habit has most to do with it.

friggen awesome yellow fogs!

i installed the $20 bosch one on my 88 spfi. worked just fine. MPG went from 19 to 24 and it ran better (power wise) the spfi ecu's are pretty primative in fuel injection terms but they do work, are reliable and need the exhaust oxygen content feedback to calculate mix. without it hooked up, it goes full rich to save itself. this can foul your spark plugs prematurely and cause loss of power due to almost "flooding" the mix out.

that could definately cause some oil leaks from blown out seals. hate to see the pcv valve itself.

regular old bearing grease will stave off rust. just regrease it when it gets a little dry. and if it gets "cakey" use brake parts cleaner to clean it out and do it again.