Ricearu

"JDM"'d my tail lights. yeah its a direct bite from 1982gl4 but it looks better dangit! and I still managed to chip one. the second came out good. i just used the heat gun longer and let the heat soak into the glue more. (about 3x5minute heat sessions with about 2 minutes in between for the heat to dissipate away from the lens, then pry the little tabs on top and bottom and pull. BTW that friggen plastic gets HOT! Also had to go get my brother's wrx. a while back the drain plug fell out of the transmission... needless to say a new drain plug didn't COMPLETELY fix it. Passenger front diff bearing is gone and took the seal with it. Out she comes again... :-\

only chance it may have is dump in a bottle of trans x, but metal squeal isn't a good thing...:-\ also my old 93 with 4eat had no reverse. for like a year i went without. then one day, i had no 4th, then a week later i had no 3rd... my advice, is look for another trans (5mt ) and park creatively for now

the GIANT arrows on the cam gears are NOT the timing marks. just for clarification! there is tiny hash marks that you go by also, If I were you, I would replace all the idlers and the water pump while I was in there.

did you set the timing belts by doing the driver side first and rotating the crank 360 before setting the passenger side?

starting fluid would make it try to start or start momentarily. go back to spark. I think you have a bad igniter too. maybe dead distributor

5th gear is overdrive. 4th is 1:1 or close. That is typical with doing 75-80 in 5th gear. yours may have lower gearing because its an outback.

the whine could be the power steering pump low. top it off with automatic transmission fluid. just the cheap stuff. also if the "tubes" on the rack are leaking, your power steering rack will probobly need to be replaced because you are correct, the "tubes" you see are dust bellows, and the true fluid seal is inside those where the moving parts are. once the fluid seal goes, the tubes aren't far behind. some people still rebuild those racks, its not a horrible job just to swap one if that's the route you wanna go.

you need to clean the small port inside the maf with MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR CLEANER. it has a "hotwire" and if it has gunk on it, it will not work right. its just a thread in there.

joo wanna rice mayn? lookin good!

dont touch the gas

thanks! its so worth it. even BG stuff bolts right in as long as you use your rear strut tops. (NOTE bg rear springs are wider (no taper) at the top) GR-2's for 02-04 wrx's are 10-15% stiffer than stock wrx struts...

04 sti struts and springs. the back sits a hair lower than the front so I will level it later, but I am so happy! It handles like a dream and rides like an NPR box truck! all was direct fit except had to swap top strut mounts off of my rears. no biggie Before After

me too.

i love my 90 mmmm black... and new enough for me

don't put a chain wrench on the crank pulley. it may damage it. I have had one break belt "slots" off, then it spun the outer ring off the rubber. just find a friend with an impact. that takes it right off. triple check everything! if anything is off it could wreck the valves. that is an interference engine. whatever you do, don't go by the HUGE OBVIOUS arrows on the cam sprockets THOSE ARE NOT the timing marks. The timing "hash" marks will be along the outer ring of the sprockets

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MagnaFlow-Direct-Fit-Catalytic-Converter-23874-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZMakeQ3aSubaruQQhashZitem5643fd9d2eQQitemZ370507881774QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories $184 shipped, its magnaflow, and the seller is summit racing equipment. I like magnaflow and the price is hella right and you can bolt it on yourself in the driveway

it won't be extreme wheeling and I am already looking for a 2.2 to replace that motor. I think she wants the tires to look cool against all the tahoes and stuff out where we live. I wanna be able to hit up some trails (nothing hella extreme) in it. I want her stock fat fives on my lego

if you "gut" it, it will throw a check engine light and you will be commiting a crime. It is a violation of federal law to alter emissions equipment NOBODY here has ever done that though.... seriously if you gut it, your car will run worse because the downstream o2 sensor will throw the ECU into a fit.

I'm looking to start upgrading the forester. My wife wants to be able to wheel it and so do i since my legacy is getting a drop. its a 98 forester S awd. stock struts thus far. I may do a 1-2" strut lift not much more, but I need to find out what tires I can fit on 15" factory steelies or 16" impreza steelies. The deal is that if I get her some MT's or AT's, I get her stock 16" "s" 5 spokes for my legacy. also it has factory struts

sweet that was QUICK! That's cool though it sure is a helluva lot more fun. I love my 5spd leg!

im gonna go with drop in engine vacuum as it misfires, which causes the FPR to momentarily raise pressure, remember, less vacuum equals more load. im gonna say timing chain slack, or maybe just a sticking intake valve... just a shot.

commercial sale of used catalytic converters is illegal, but non commercial isn't. find someone parting out a low mile car and grab it from them cheap. takes about an hour to install most of them if its built into the y pipe just replace the whole y pipe, if its just the cat, it should only take about 30 minutes.

grab the belt tensioner too. they are a fail part and you may need one later down the road.

sorry ea81 mindset. yeah the timing belts wouldn't know the difference in deck height. just have to worry about intake mounting. if it's too far off, it could compromise the gasket area between coolant passage and intake port.

i have symptoms same, replaced radiator, water pump, and dealer tstat. clogged radiator can do it for sure but if it started suddenly, look at hg. rent that test kit and backflush the radiator for starters.