Ricearu

I won't buy that. for damn sure. They can keep it.

i go by the general rule that if it says lifetime warranty, it will need to be replaced periodically for the lifetime of the vehicle. :lol:

To the O.P., rent a block test kit (tests coolant for combustion gasses) from autozone/advance. all you really have to buy is the strips. then return the kit and they give you your money back. takes a few minutes and isn't hard.

the biggest issues are intake fitment, and if you deck it too much, the push rods could be too long. altering rocker angles and valve adjustments. also, extreme decking could lead to your non-interference engine interfering with itself. Just food for thought.

cheap Mexico or Filipino, or worse PRISON rebuilt alternators with cheap Chinese parts. I have to put at least 1 per year on the GL and its from Oreilly. imagine anything through "best parts inc" is probably worse

Headgaskets. and by the way, overheating is technically over half way. I blew a headgasket on my 92k mile ea82 by just pegging the "red". A wire broke off my fan relay and caused me to overheat in traffic, just for a moment. same symptoms. overheat on highway etc etc. here's a hint also, stop driving it now before you trash the oil, once the oil overheats and breaks down, rod bearings go next.

I swapped my badges, and added a SPT sticker I couldn't help myself and it looks hardcore. AND ITS +15 HP including the badges LOLOLOL Also painted the front bumper trim (faded out) mmm thursday she is gettin STI struts and 16" steel rims for now.

rapid solenoid click indicates low battery, poor connection or bad solenoid (on starter). start there. even though the battery shows the voltage, it can be toast, providing too low of amperage to crank the engine. try jumping it and see if that starts it. otherwise hit the starter solenoid with something. like a jack handle while cranking.

If it has equal length manifold it will sound like a regular 4cyl with a glasspack. like a civic... yuk. better look into unequal length headers while your at it. might eek a few more pony's out too. also if your going for performance get some 2.2 cams reground by deltacams. mmmm torque

Put it in gear, set the ebrake, and let the clutch out and look to see what axle nut is spinning. That will be the stripped hub. The rear output is driven off of the front diff. Nearly impossibe to break and drive home in 4hi. I say stripped hub from improper torque also. Seen it more times than you count and people assume. Ithe worst. Maybe broken axle. I had one strip on me.

make sure its a vacuum line at the throttle body, otherwise you will only seafoam 2 cylinders

no problem!

plug in the black one's and count the flashes long = 10's and shorts equal 1's so 3 long 5 short would be 35 http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm

NOOOOOOOOO!!!!!! Worst plugs ever. you should know that twitch.... They widen the gap considerably as they wear, the electrode recedes rather rapidly into the insulator. They just don't hold up. *this post brought to you by bosch platinum haters of america* also, btw, love the wagon and good luck with the job!

if you want a 2.5 powerhouse, swap the 2.2 into the obw. then get a spare set of 2.2 heads (junkyard or the like ) in good shape and slap them and timing components on the 2.5 block. look up frankenmotor for more details but with cams, exhaust, and tune, its capable of something around 200hp.

ha! the audio blares because its from my phone

Like a million bucks. I will try to get a vid tomorrow. its really hot. kinda gurgly on decel and no resonance (quack sound) like you would expect from a glass pack. also, I went to awesome's ALL you can carry for $35 sale. my back hurts but I got a rear disk swap, washer resivior, center console, shifter trim, etc and made a shift boot from a pair of old work pants

my roommate needs that grille for his postal wagon

Had my can installed hawt!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SfWX7T99kPw Is this what it does? check all wiring first and clean the maf

Hey I feel your pain (i converted electric) To those who are having this issue, I had the same problem after installing my "new" engine last year. It died on the highway. It would run for about 20 miles then decide to peter out. It took 2 weeks of this, after jiggling junk while it was chug chug "idling" I found it ran good if I messed with the main engine wire harness by the left side of the engine (left from sitting in driver seat). when I got home, I unplugged it, sprayed it down with contact cleaner, plugged and unplugged it and hosed it with contact cleaner again. 18k later no more wiring or dying issues. only a starting to leak headgasket...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-1985-1987-1-8L-OHC-EA82-Weber-Carb-Conversion-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZMakeQ3aSubaruQQhashZitem4cf7279fbfQQitemZ330564083647QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

yeah it "can" happen but you pretty much have to warp the heads to do it I too run 15w-40 in my EJ22 with 185k miles. quiet as a mouse except for that bastard exhaust heat shield somewhere under there Ran 15w40 in my GL for all 3+ years I had it...

the dealers around here won't do any timing belts without idlers AND water pump if its belt driven. hell pep boys won't even do it, unless you sign a lengthy waver releasing liability if one of the other parts fails.

sad that a phase 1 ej18/22 will last you longer too... with NO headgasket issues