Ricearu

yeah just reminds me of Vaseline. that's a lot cheaper than armor all anyways ew.

ummmm maybe.... ya think! :lol:

I use mcguires on all my cars. it actually restores and protects the plastic/vinyl you apply it to. Armor all destroys your plastics over time

Not only that, the center core will recede into the insulator as it erodes. making it even harder to spark. I HATE bosch platinums... NGK anything is better by far. also, wife's 98 forester did this when it rained mainly, replaced wires, with NGK wires from rockauto.com, WITH dielectric grease on each end to keep water out and no more shakey shakey when it rains! Flashing check engine light means repeat misfires and possible catalytic converter damage... try not to run it long like that or the cat can melt inside from excessive unburnt fuel going through it heating it up.

2" is pushing it without other mods. most 4" kits include 3" subframe and diff drops. the goal for ground clearance is tires. look to sjrlift.com or others for goodies. also, your car is ea82 if you didn't know. Happy Lifting!

Its the injector. These cars only have one large injector and it is noisy

+1 on insert. The jb can't hold real torque. Its a plastic. Use the insertt and if its a water jacket bolt, use sealant when you install it and the bolt

Use the kit on ebay that includes the tensioners and idler. Its worthit to not have one lock up and eat the belts in 10k miles and only like 60 bucks. I got 35k on mine before the hg blew...

just look into the maf and see how big the port is. then you will understand that bigger filter is useless

That scheme reminds me of an older cressida/chaser

some use 2 different hoses and galvanized reducers

yeah, I pulled the lower part out where the hit originaly was, and the top didn't come back up. now i just need to hang my comealong in a tree and do it up so my grill and headlight line up.

I slapped new fenders and old bumper back on the legacy. now I need to find a sturdy tree to fix my core support... THEN I can paint it

I got ALL the windows working in the "new" legacy and the new passenger front door on Now I just need a pair of 90-91 fenders.

That's the most important part good luck

The postal wagons are multiplying in the area. My roommate got one not long ago. We are in venus and have a total of 4 subarus at the house. How did you guys weather that storm last night?

English color will make you an aerosol can for like 20-25 bones. worth it in my opinion

dude I learn't the hard way with those f-1 clutches off of ebay. I had one in my integra back in the day and it sucked. engagement sucked, it kicked the pedal back when you were letting out, and did not grip for S#!T. I had a modded B18A with no stupid vtec, just cams, pistons, head work and intake manifold, and that car would slip that f-1 "stage 2" but an exedy stage 1 held it and had tons better pedal feel and engagement. also, i have an ej22 leg and a ej25d forrester and I wouldn't trade my deucedeuce for nothing.

I used to own a 93 lego wagon and loved it. I had it a while and then the trans went out. I attempted to swap in a 5 speed as opposed to auto... I ran out of time/patience and parted out the car. Long story short, I was unwilling to get rid of the hood and bumper because they were from a SS and I wanted another legacy wagon... I was also conveniently left with front fenders, headlights and grille. The lego I bought had a smashed pass fender. The question here is, what do I need to make this front end fit the 1990 I just bought? The bumper support doesn't fit the foam insert/bumper, and it looks like the headlights won't line up either. should I just swap the fenders and markers and just move on? I REALLY want my SS front end on it. old one new one

Im with the party on this one. just stab another in. And GD, I would listen to an RA gearset whine too!

i almost bought a 2002 obw with 100k down here in the south from a dealer for 4500. Run away. CRAIGSLIST is your homie. if you like that body style, go ahead and buy one that has 170k+ because you know at that point the head gaskets have been done! lol.

I HATE cali laws and regs. I would love to visit, hate to stay...

go to another autozone. i have never had that problem. it must be the counter jerk. they CONSTANTLY have junk rump roast axles. I mean half of them are bad. I would demand my money and my core back if they deny the warranty. get the manager. throw a s#!t fit about it and go buy one from oreilly if you have it or parts plus car quest. autozone and advance are about the same junk. I have warranteed 4 axles or more from oreilly's. that is why it is a LIFETIME warranty. I can see if they deny the warranty because your car is lifted 4" and eats axles every week because your subframe isn't dropped lol but over 1 bad axle. screw that employee. complain to the manager, if it was the manager, complain to the area/district manager. that's horses#!t sorry for the rant. I just HATE autozone both corporate and the idiots they hire. not many real parts people will work for them... they all work at napa and oreilly. p.s. don't disassemble the axle. they won't take it back. the last axle I warranteed clunked like you say, right out of the box. alot of those "rebuilt" axles will be "within spec" on the inner because it hardly ever fails. the outer just about always gets replaced. but rarely do they replace the hard parts on the inners. they just clean and inspect and regrease/reboot. I went through 4 axles one day for a civic. too long, too short, clunking and finally a good one.

mmmm rice.... I know the feeling, my stereo lights the whole cabin in a neon-esque blue... I wish I could dim it...

I believe the 85-86 had a fuel pump controller that turned it on when the tach wire sensed revolutions. just a note. it should show 0 volts when off as far as i know. when on, it should show 12-14 when on and running. there won't be a very big volt drop from battery to pump because the pump is the load. I would do a rewire on the one you have. that's just me