Ricearu

it will definitely do it if your tires are different sizes and even different tread lifes. it needs to be exact to run 4wd on dry pavement. you will know its binding if it it difficult to get back into 2wd. The crank case vent filter goes inside the air cleaner housing. don't use 4wd on dry pavement...not necessary and can break stuff. and kills your MPG

don't worry about the plastic tank for now. it should be in between the lines. remove the radiator cap (ENGINE STONE COLD) and look in there for coolant. fill it, burping (squeezing) the air from the upper and lower radiator hoses as you fill it.

i need to tear down the one outside and recycle the alum, but they want it spotless, eh, i think I will pull the heads, and have them reworked , and use them to fix what is in there now to sell. When I put that motor in, it had 60k on it, I have put 38k since. so a 100k motor with redone heads should be sellable. it wasn't hard overheated like the old one. and runs good, good compression, no smoke, no TOD, what would you guys think it is worth with fresh HG's and reman'd heads? and a reseal 38k ago?

the step is the issue, the xt6 step is .815 inches and the ea d/r step is .900. the clutch can also slip because it isn't able to clamp all the way. have the high side of the step milled down .085. should be good to go then.

look at you beating me to it! lol just buy a new one from the dealer, mine cost me $18. well worth it in my opinion.

Its the aftermarket thermostat. they don't open enough here is a pic of the one to my GL which did the same thing (guess which one is dealer and which is "duralast, motorad" etc. made in Israel junk ---------------------------AWESOME-----------------------------------------JUNK----------------

there has to be a clause that says if the vehicle was down, broken or parked, it need not be registered and should not be penalized. If they are hard lined, move. its cheaper to live elsewhere. stupid super-lib state. I would die before I lived in cali. but then again I'm from texas, what country are you from? :lol: P.S. I got a red light camera ticket the other day. I was pissed that it was 75.00, then I read that california's were $468 EACH. God bless texas.

sounds like the intake gasket again, did you use dealer? or did you use the cardboard autozone ones? that may be the problem. both surfaces must be super clean and smooth. use dealer gaskets and torque to 12lb/ft I learned early to ALWAYS use dealer gaskets on important stuff. and dealer thermostats on these cars.

BWAHAHAHA! NNNNNNEEEEEEEEEEEOOOOOWWWWWWW! Right over my head LOL:banana:

if you wanna drive down to texas, they are both yours. one has sat since april outside, no love:) but it mixes water with coolant and was severely over heated, the other is in the car still running. This morning on the way to work, if I exceeded ~60mph the temp would creep up. this is with a brand new dealer t-stat. freshly flushed radiator, etc. Turn the engine off and "blub, blub-blub" from the bottle. I have had enough. I love my car, don't get me wrong. Its the engine going into the lake, my car is gonna get the ej swap

Power wire broke off the relay for my cooling fans... over heated EA82, it's boiling into the tank. I am gonna do a block test but I am slowly consuming water. I swear to everything good, this car is gonna get an ej, and my ea's (both of them) are going to the bottom of JOE POOL LAKE!!!!

sorry, i missed your reply for a few days here. Actually it is backwards to that, because if you run a bunch of crap, the battery acts like a capacitor in the system that the alt can charge later when you aren't running 8 forward facing lights at idle down a trail when the alt is only able to put out 20-30Amps at that low rpm. your standard alternator should put out it's rated amperage at 22-2500 (engine) rpm.

absolutely not. I have a lego cover, i have tried and it will not fit in my 88 gl wagon.

firewall, intake manifold, fender. try multiple places, if there is a difference in readings, you may need to beef up your grounds for good measure

thinking about it, if it were intake gasket leak, BOTH of the cylinders on that side should be filling up with water. pull the head, if it isn't cracked and the block looks good, have both the heads decked at a local machine shop and replace use felpro head gaskets on it (no retorque needed). If the head is cracked between the valves, it can be ok, (subaru released a TSB on this issue) but you would make sure the valves seal to seats, and that the crack doesn't leak from the coolant jacket through the exhaust port or into the cylinder. they can check that at the machine shop. good luck

definitely check that the gasket didn't suck in. if it did, it will only pull air and cavitate. If the pump gasket "sucks in" it will do exactly what you describe now.

hey bratclay, you need to drop your front crossmember and carrier bearing accordingly to keep the angles correct. if you keep the diff lower than the CB, the NON-SERVICEABLE u-joints in the drive shaft MAY fail prematurely. just a heads up.

and get them from the dealer, the auto parts chains are die cut from what looks like cereal boxes. they are 5 at autozone, 6 at the dealer. i trust the dealer.

easiest way is to sell it and buy a d/r 5 speed 88-89 wagon, it comes spfi and gets decent gas mileage. with stock tires, I have gotten up to 32mpg. with the 16" rims, I get 24-26mpg.

try it, honestly the plugs look pretty normal to me. not horrible by any means. I personally would check the resistance of the coolant temp sensor. They are NOTORIOUS for failing (usually because of corrosion IN the wires) and causing all kinds of problems. Start there. There is a Factory serivce manual here http://www.ch601.org/engines.htm

It should not effect drivability. The EGR system only operates in low load situations anyways. worst thing that could happen is with it not connected, the EGR wouldn't open and it would fail emissions testing. It should be fixed but it won't leave you stranded or anything like that

you can put an overrated battery in there, because the starter will only draw what it needs. You can't "overcurrent" a starter. the one in my car now has 750 cca It will run my system with subs for hours and still start.

Use one of these. Honda rotor screws are notorious for the same thing and these haven't failed me yet. I paid $25 for mine at sears but they have them at harbor freight http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html

I have drove my car like I stole it since i got it 3 years ago. its the only way to keep with traffic. You should be fine, I just like the results of mid grade in my car. In the winter month of texas, (yes I said month lol) I use "regular" because the weather makes it happier. Your friend with the EA82T just may destroy a piston running "regular" grade gasoline (while flogging). Once you get to a certain point, the computer can no longer "richen" out the detonation.

I run mid in my car, but then again its generally hot down here and that makes her wanna det when I drive hard so I use midgrade im my ea82. I have beat a civic in my gl, but not much else. I outran a NPR box truck lol. My gl is slow as dirt with the tires i have now which are 26" diameter overall. oh and yes, he will blow it up driving like he stole it on 87