Ricearu

wanting one and affording one are two different things. I do want a turbo foz though. I like the 2.5 in the wife's. I love stomping on ricers in it,

That sucks, especially when the 2.5 chunks rods for fun, even full of oil

sounds normal to me and you won't find cars that need no repair drive today for 750 bucks... when you say it like that you sound like one of those whiny "single mothers" from craigslist that need a car, needs to be 2000 or newer needs to have a/c and get good gas mileage and they only have 1000 bucks Im only kidding, I just wish I could get it. Was it a DL or a STD? the STD had round headlights. My STD was a damn good car and had the 1.6l engine in it. got like 38mpg

Lemme rephrase that, I wish I could have stayed home from work and pulled people out for 3 days... lol! and I have NEW Cooper tires on it, but they are passenger all seasons. no use getting I pikes or blizzaks down here. unless the world freezes over. Also, the snow isn't what got me, Its hard to tell from the photos but my roof line was about level with the road, it was a decently steep embankment. This is texas btw, it snowed over mud, the snow stayed put but the ground underneath wouldn't freeze. It tried like hell though, but only slid sideways. Makes me REALLY wish I had the cash to put A/T's on the GL, it's got a wench but the tires on it are Toast

FYI, be safe. The gas that is produced when you weld is vaporized zinc, aka zinc oxide, if you breath it, it can make you sick (temporarily) *see "metal fume fever" Rack looks good.

Took the foz off roading in the snow Some Jerkov in a 80's F-150 attempted to make a left turn from the right lane, right in front of me, I honked and chose the ditch vs. his p.o.s. STEEL truck that probably wasn't insured anyways. Lucky a nice guy in a jeep pulled me out. Refused to take cash, said he was out pulling people out for 3 days just for fun I wish I could do that! Luckily the FOZ is ok.

if you keep it, definately remove the plugs and spin it over to blow the water out. then put them back in. that will save the engine, even if you turned it off, it could have taken in water into the intake tract or if an intake valve was open, only there won't be hydrolock damage like bent rods because it was off.

different manifold flange. it can work, just adapted. FYI, you need to fix the timing, it is spitting gas because its blowing compression back through the intake valves, DON'T REPLACE THE CARB, FIX THE TIMING!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THEN put the weber on it!

is the thermostat dealer or aftermarket? I had all kinds of wierd cooling issues with "the left one", installed the dealer one and it is now cake. here is a comparo pic, the brass awesome one on the left is the dealer, the right one is "oem quality" from allimport auto parts.

what kind of chip?

my ball joints did it too, also did some funny stuff the first time i forgot to put the clamp bolt in the strut, I put the bolt in the tab that keeps the strut in the knuckle, but forgot the clamp one. I had just smashed the dog crap outta my finger and was super pissed and destracted lol. boy i jacked it up and checked it out quick though! :lol:

Don't think i am slandering the seller the pics are not who i bought it from, it was a one or two radiator seller... looking back, the pics had a filler neck in them. I just need a solution. i ordered a radiatior like this, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/99-02-Subaru-Forester-Aluminum-Radiator-Non-Turbo-00-01-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5641238a8aQQitemZ370460035722QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories i recieved this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/03-05-Subaru-Forester-aluminum-radiator-Turbo-04-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem56412c45fcQQitemZ370460607996QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories they sent me a later one because the bottom pegs won't go into the core support.

I did not notice one in the orig pic. mine looks like this, only no auto trans cooler. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALUMINUM-RADIATOR-SUBARU-FORESTER-2004-2005-TURBO-04-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5641626879QQitemZ370464155769QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Bastards, it has been a week or two. man...

DTC P0106 - PRESSURE SENSOR CIRCUIT RANGE/PERFORMANCE PROBLEM snag one from the junk yard for a few bucks, DTC P0301 - CYLINDER #1 MISFIRE plugs and wires. also could be the bad sensor causing lean/rich misfire. it also sucks when you have P0442 - EVAP LEAK .5MM OR LESS

I pulled a stupid. The radiator in the wife's foz sploded a while back, well I ordered one off of ebay. ALL aluminum boss looking one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Aluminum-Radiator-Subaru-Forester-99-02-Non-Turbo-00-01-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem56418b26fdQQitemZ370466825981QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories found here, The quality is good, and I knew they made the body style from 98-02, and the radiator said 99-02 so i ASSUMED that it would work. Well, you know what they say about rump roast u me ing things. Well my shiny new radiator does not have a cap, apparently in 99 they went to cap above intake set up. Is there a way to add the top engine mounted radiator cap to my existing ej25d? I really don't want to order another radiator... I will sell this one for $150 shipped, my loss is your gain!

before i did my brakes, I had a stare down with my caliper, fire extinguisher in hand, ready to kill it, man it was smoking like crazy and hot as hell. I didnt dare touch it. It was sticy caliper pins. i took it off and greased the pins with brake parts grease and it had no more problems, except it warped the dog snot outta that rotor!!! p.s. you would probobly smell it if it were brakes, stinks like high hell

ej it, it won't break then, also, the gen 1 legacys had an unequal length manifold so if you keep the stock manifold, it will have that growl the old gens had, I know, my lego had the SAME pipe my car has on it now and sounds the same.

flushed cooling system cleaner from engine, installed new dealer tstat and gasket. filled it with fresh 50/50 and burped the baby good. took like 10 minutes hardest part was the driver side radiator hose

i dont think from the way it sounds that "goo" was used on the headgaskets, it sounds like it was used on the intake gaskets just to help, the head gaskets are vertical when installed between the block and heads, the intake gaskets lay flat on top of the head where the intake connects. THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NO WAY IN THE WORLD TO REMOVE THE HEADS WITHOUT REMOVING THE INTAKE. PERIOD END OF STORY. Not trying to be rude or mean, just sayin. I would think at that level of water it is the intake gaskets leaking...

How long did it take to replace your gaskets last time?

when this one bites the dust, yeah, im gonna EJ it. actually though when I did it, it was because I would have had to sink my radiator into the core, or cut my fan mount zips just to change the acc. belt. Plus the fans push 150cfm more than they pull! It helps keep the engine bay neat and accessible.

2 Hayden fans, from O'reilly auto parts. $54 each, wired relay one key on, one relay thermoswitched. I plan on making the key on fan swap every year or so to keep life even oh and I DON'T have a/c condenser

if you are unsure, don't "try" a helicoil. it is easy to pull the threads out of the hole when tapping, especially if you are pissed because dirt fell in your eye and don't realize that the hole ISN'T that deep but keep going anyways... it's a one time thing my friend... I KNOW! And YES not having that little jerk bracket will pull your exhaust studs out...

Give it a fresh oil change ALWAYS before smoggin a car. I used ROTELLA T 15w40 and also you would want to advance your timing, your HC will go up, but your CO will go down. basically making a LESS complete burn of fuel, creating less CO, but having more fuel in the exhaust gas.