Ricearu

if you clogged the fuel pressure regulator, then that is why there is no fuel. Some hobby tweezers might help with this. Fix the broken wire in the idle air control valve, It is really hard to tell where it goes but if you give me more details on the wire, I can go look at my GL which is an 88 and has spfi

we will, we will

you may also need to replace the fan clutch, if it has one. my 88 GL's mech fan clutch went out on me and did similar. To check it, warm engine up, maybe till its running a little too warm. Turn the engine off and spin the mechanical fan and see if it has much resistance. If the engine is above about half way, that clutch on the fan should have alot of resistance and should be almost locked up. The hotter the fan clutch face gets, the more grip it gives to the shaft, thus spinning the fan faster and cooling more...

same here! I love texas. screw the salt. screw the rust. My 88 GL has one rust spot on it, which is in the rear wheel arch and only cosmetic, I have por15'd the little "fatherless child" and plan on glassing it over. To the OP, PLEASE LOOK AT POR15 before your repair all that rust. Por15 is guaranteed to stop rust DEAD and I believe it, It really is a awesome product. I would Por it before bondo, 'glass, etc

Full time open EGR WILL cause a lean out and will kill it at idle. I used to love doing the EGR test at school with scantool on our gm and ford cars at LTI, while other people were checking sensors or 02's with a labscope. that was funny, why did the car die lol. all while I was sitting in the passenger seat with a snap-on solus scanner:lol:

cheapest and darn reliable solution.

dc at the horn for now, so you don't get anymore wakeup calls lol.

That guy is a idiot and a half for saying that. 2k for headgaskets? you can get a 90 day warranty jdm engine for around $800. when you buy those warranteed engines, you aren't getting much different, only paying a large differance so the company can replace it if it fails, and most JDM engines, (that i have seen/installed) have not had any problems, and even if it lasts 3-4 years, the other engine would be out of warranty by then anyways. I dont buy into those warranty engines at 3-4x cost. I just go with a reputable seller who compression tests their engines and ask for the numbers on the motor. then when i get it, i reseal it, and put new timing belts, idlers, water pump, etc on it before just stabbing it in a car.

I always use my craftsman 1/2" ratchet, it is more durable than those heads on the breaker bars. those crappy little pieces always twist off and I dont know why... I figured the gear teeth in the ratchet would go first. My friend's brother makes ratchet heads for craftsman in taiwan. im just keeping him employed lol. ps, the innards of a craftsman ratchet are all powder metal forged

I hate my EA82. but it runs good and does me right. whenever i can afford it, Im ej'n my ride

I DON'T!! BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!

armor-all blows, I use mcguire's vinyl care stuff. Think of how many 80's era cars would have better dashes if they hadn't been hosed once a month or more with armor-all.

I loc-tite'd mine!

thanks, This thing is SO getting the shiniest blackest rustoleum roll on ever conceived. My roommate is a body guy, and I will paint anything, and I mean anything and enjoy it. I am gonna thin the rustoleum and do like 8 coats, that is after fiberglass, bondo and a crap ton of sanding and welding. I have some trim holes to tack too... I got my work cut out. good deal on the stake bed! I Love that look, I can't decide wheather to do step side or fleetside with this one as i have both... HAHAHAHA!! Possibly step side because they are all gone, and this one is mounted and I hate cutting off 43 year old rusted on bolts:eek:

I think I stole the truck at $700 for a rust free (except one front fender) roller, and she came with a pretty blue texas title and a new windshield. Hasn't even had the stickers on it yet.

the glass guy did it, check page 1, it was demolished by the p.o. I think the hood made sweet crunchy love with it. It needed to be driveable. its a cop magnet but it's driveable.

not bad especially when the gates kit is +$200

probably nothing wrong. Mine ticks when cold, and the gauge will drop to 0 whenever it feels like it at idle. The dying could be dirty MAF sensor, small vacuum leak, or idle air control valve.

what are symptoms while cranking? is it popping? spitting, gurgling etc.?

I bought my baby. My first car was a suby hatch, my first TRUCK was a 68 chevy... Long story short, drunk heifer hit my PARKED truck at about 50mph and totaled it. This was years ago. now I am happy to say I have found a 67, killed it, and drug it home. now to skin it and make it do stuff lol Crap I have bought already to work with this bugger. Vortec 350 tbi - bad crank (harmonic balancer end broken) - to be converted to 383, and TPI. Have crank and bearings etc. and 8 pin hei small cap 700r4 trans, new transstar torque converter set of nameless headers guages Megasquirt MS-II engine management. already assembled it this weekend, building harness throughout the week CRAP I NEED TPI intake, runners, plenum and injectors, also would like the coolant pipes too driveshaft... poo... 67 chevy bulkhead harness (engine side) brakes. (yes all of them...)

doesn't help the snap on guy knows you are lying when you say "it just broke" you CAN howerver tell the "tool" guy at sears that the 1/2" ratchet "just broke", when ALL YOU DID was put a 4' cheater pipe on it and then jump up and down on it breaking rear drums to a 73 bug loose (torqued to 257lb/ft) ... He will believe it "just broke" :lol:

that water leaking is most likely from the water pump shaft seal. It probobly dried out in the 5 years it sat. moisture in the oil is to be expected as long as it doesn't happen again. The headgaskets on these motors USUALLY (not ALWAYS) blow between cylinder and water jacket. rarely do they mix water and oil. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DRIVE THIS CAR WITH A WATER LEAK!!! If your headgaskets are good, and you overheat the car, they won't be good anymore. All it took was one overheat for my car... I would look at doing the timing belts, oil pump reseal, new seals on the front of the motor while doing the water pump. timing belt kit most people use is here http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/85-94-SUBARU-LOYALE-1800-GL-RX-XT-TIMING-BELT-KIT-EA82_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZalgoQ3dLVIQ26ituQ3dUCIQ26otnQ3d3Q26poQ3dLVIQ26psQ3d63Q26clkidQ3d5136894227128353961QQ_trksidZp5197Q2em7QQcategoryZ33625QQitemZ400174420915 the seal and gasket kit i used is here (just dont use the intake gaskets oem only on those) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/85-94-SUBARU-LOYALE-XT-RX-GL-1-8L-FULL-GASKET-SET-EA82-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5d2c410956QQitemZ400174418262QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

inspect/clean, if you can't clean it, then replace it. the vacuum modulator is another story, I would clean the governor first.