Ricearu

Hey AWDTURBO, how many EA82T's have you DESTROYED? I think you should take any advice you can get, take the time and do the math, he even linked you a calculator... http://osidetiger.com/calculator.aspx in case you missed it earlier. Just swap in a bone stock ej20g/k and you will have more (and more reliable) power than the ea82t with mods. http://wordpress.suberdave.com/?page_id=171

if you matched it to the belt, ummmmm. belt may be backwards

just vent to atmosphere! just once won't hurt! I personally like recovering refrigerant... that stuff is pricey!

double check everything, tensioner could have not been set right and it jumped time, other than that, you may have a dead engine. If it's interference... well you know...

i like our 98 foz, ample head room and heated leather rocks your butt lol, I for one enjoy it.

His roll cover doesn't retract, interior is grey, I NEED A ROLL COVER FOR MY GL!!!! COLOR... I DON'T CARE!:lol:

don't forget inner tie rods too! time to yank a rack. the headlights look dope, and yes he still has the touch, he did jamie's bugeye wrx and they look better than whoever does them for cransh, where you hit the pole and he bought the car lol! Pic from weekend before last, That Friday night (10-29-10), Me and Jamie drove to Waco to get a spare trans, Jamie and Clay disassembled the car Saturday afternoon while I coughed and stupervised, Me and Jamie tore the trans apart, he blew his viscous center diff and damaged his rear output shaft inside the trans. spare trans had blown 2nd gear, I took two and made 1, never split a suby manual before, hella straightforward, replaced all seals while in there, washed out the case with solvent to get all the shiny's out. assembled the trans and was done around dark so 7:30pm on sunday, car was running at 3am... what a friggen weekend (all while I had pneumonia....)

What I meant by "not that much of a problem" is the fact that they blow headgaskets (usually) outside of "normal service life" by american standarts. lol 150k and alot of cars have dead transmissions, and dead engines (internal). so hg's aren't too big of a deal as long as you don't keep driving them after they go, and overheat the piss out of them. I WOULD replace the hg's with the ones that came on the car if I knew they would last 100-150k more, by then the whole engine and car is pretty worn out. and if you choose, just do a motor swap and continue driving said worn out 300k mile car even longer. My uncle just rebuilt my aunt's cavalier, 142k and it had catastrophic failure. He is a mechanic, so service always done, she's not hard on it either. Bet he wishes it was only a headgasket

It sounds to me like you guys timed the cams by the giant obnoxious arrows on the cam sprockets, and these are truly incorrect. (i know because I have done this exact thing) time it by the tiny almost non visible 'tic' marks on the cams...

You ain't lying, my STD Hatch was T-Boned by a truck, about a year after I sold it.

Wouldn't you like to know! Its the place where all the bad forum member's bodies are hidden, and all the good one's get parts from.

I LOVE pulling my own stuff, that way I know from experimentation how to take my own car apart without consequences!

i don't buy snake oil from anybody. I will stick to OEM subaru. thanks. I would rather go with factory, who has spent countless money trying to fix a "problem" that really isn't much of a problem anyways, than a gasket company I have never heard of selling plastic coated riveted steel gaskets that they probably ripped off from cometic or oem anyways.

you should NOT disable the a/c. you should straighten the fins, get them started up with a pocket knife or pick, then use the comb kit to get the right spaced comb and rake them carefully back up. The defrost in your car uses the a/c system to dry the air in the cabin before blowing it on your windshield. your car is designed for this to work right, if your a/c doesn't work at least some, then your defrost will not be nearly as effective.

those rock. although on a side note (not a bad one mind you) they kinda have a kaleidoscope effect to them on the eyes.

you can put a vacuum gauge on a manifold vacuum port, have a helper rev the engine to 2500(ish) rpm's and hold, the vacuum should drop some, and then be steady. if it continues to drop, you probably have an exhaust flow restriction. oh and to naru you are correct, I was thinking backwards. could still be the air filter causing oil to be sucked up the pcv...

haha I love that body lego, I had one and when I had to let it go, I kept my ss front end off of it, so one day, I can buy a lego wagon, and have that front end again. Man I miss the squishy comfy legacy goodness... Mine had 250 and ran like a champ. the auto trans died and I could not get the awd 5 speed swap done...

Not long after getting the car, just a wash and some fog lights. middle Current (last week)

or use spray on truck bed coating!

might as well replace the pcv valve too while you are at it. When the engine is under heavy load (ie uphill pulls) the engine has a very high amount of vacuum, that is when you "suck oil" and burn it like so. hell while you are at it, check the air filter too. could be factory and plugged up!

I changed my O2 sensor today, my fuel mileage was declining and turns out my O2 was lazy. so I put on a new one. bought some truck bed coating to do my mirrors, but ran out of DAYLIGHT AT 6:30!!!! grrrr I hate this "daylight savings" crap.

Ditto

you *could* "roll" it up with some duct tape :lol: Nascar that sucker. It's hard as crap to get all the tape gunk off later though.

i shut one up one time by putting an 18" resonator in the center of the exhaust. I used a purple hornet, but a cherry bomb will work too. I later took it off for MORE OBNOXIOUSNESS!!! I loved my 92 lego wagon.

castrol 10w-30 and a wix filter is what my 88 gl gets. valvoline has good products too