Ricearu

i would make it happen just cause. I hate that motor but its fun if it runs right! definately clean the injectors and make sure your replacement radiator is for TURBO which is double core. Then I would drive it till the wheels fall off. also, just for fun, put the biggest, nastiest blow off valve possible on it!! just to mess with the ricers...lol

im the same way, the forester has a full size spare, and a stock jack. The GL is prepped for the apocalypse, has a full size spare, monster jack, tow truck short chain ( the one with the really useful giant meat hook on it), 4x15'-30' 2" straps, 1 5" wide x 15" tree strap. 2 jack stands, quart of oil, quart of atf, pint of Berryman's Chemtool, wench, lights oh, and a huge tool set.

some late pics of hitting the wrx with wrenches last weekend wife and I Jamie and Clay (xanadu) Jamie, Clay, Susan (Wife)

came that way... the goobers that destroyed that car just sprayed it, no sanding or prep and thats why the lights were all "blacked out" with flat black spray paint. that's what we removed when we resto'd the lights. We have to sand it down and respray it with flat black. I think we are gonna use hot rod black and a spray gun though. He wants to run GLOSSY GLOSSY black scion TC twins with redone centers so they don't say scion. I think it will look good http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.scion.com/assets/images/cars/tC/features_specs/standard_features/tc_staFe_ext_18AlloyWheels_l.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f10/scion-tc-wheels-srt-553349/&usg=__1wjIXqgMribcm9cYE6Hr5RAMr-Y=&h=251&w=408&sz=69&hl=en&start=61&sig2=hJseA2qr31Qty38kpq4ZKw&zoom=1&tbnid=bOJwbsS8EKTJlM:&tbnh=112&tbnw=182&ei=kDjSTI6HL4ihnAfrlugK&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dscion%2Btc%2Bwheels%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26biw%3D986%26bih%3D560%26tbs%3Disch:10%2C2329&um=1&itbs=1&iact=hc&vpx=516&vpy=277&dur=15651&hovh=176&hovw=286&tx=102&ty=194&oei=zjfSTNv-LMP7lwei-s20Dg&esq=40&page=6&ndsp=13&ved=1t:429,r:11,s:61&biw=986&bih=560 they resemble old OZ F-1's

DODGE *AKA* MITSUBISHI is MORTAL ENEMIES with our cars. Traitors... OEM subaru only baby! I put a accel supercoil on my GL and got 0 performance gains, your stocker should be MORE than enough to run many thousands of miles more. It has worked good thus far right?

That sounds like a long drive. Probobly would NOT be a good idea. It could come apart whenever it feels like it... I would spend the 50 bucks for insurance

IIIEEEEEEEE!!!!! I couldn't find that when mine broke!!! :mad: Nice write up thanks to MilesFox for that one!

I would not use that jack unless I REALLY REALLY REALLY had to. I have a torin big red 3 ton truck and suv jack that if I take out the saddle (slips in and out) it fits in the storage hole and has a 4" spacer for those taller vehicle lifts. The folly with that scissor jack is that the gear teeth at the top and bottom that keep the jack upright, cannot handle lateral load, so any incline or pull on the jack to the side (especially with the spacer) can make the teeth strip and the jack merely falls over to one side like a limp wrist. That was a good idea, but I don't like to use brand new scissor jacks without spacers, personal preference...

the steering shaft and brake booster only clear the tt on rhd models

PICS!

My car, sitting stock ride height, "rolled" (or bashed really) fenders, and 195/55/16's on rodeo rims. My Roommate's (Xanadu62) RHD postal Project, just got sti struts.

your grounds should be ok, but are you connecting that relay to the solenoid small terminal (i know its kind of a goofy question but im serious) other than that maybe a defective switch, the solenoid should only pull a small amount of juice, so small I have used sunroof and doorlock switches to power them before. I would check to see if the switch or wiring is grounding before the relay.

I have pneumonia, so I stared at clay (xanadu) while he put his $100 set of STI struts on this machine. Man it dropped it kinda sexy and it sure isn't bouncy as hell anymore. all the others were BLOWN, and were in dire need of replacement anyways and to pick up a set of sti's for a bill is a steal anyways I will take pics of it later, its cold and raining now and I am sick so I am keeping my rump roast inside for the time being

i run mine without covers because I HAD to break them off, I used a big flat head driver to pry it off while turning the stripped ones, That will pull them out. also the timing belts aren't hard on these cars, but you need a manual that tells you how. they have a few tricks that aren't like the newer ones. if you don't have the book, you can also use your "resources" to "find" the gates eb05 timing belt book online.

you sure you checked the switch on the TOP of the column? not the headlight switch, the rocker on the column

my timing belt didn't break when it went out. it just stripped the teeth from around the crank sprocket. happens to alot of these cars.

pour in a pint of trans-x and try that

we got the imprezza back together and fine, turns out the viscous coupler and the rear output gears that connect to the viscous and the driveshaft ALL had more teeth missing than a drunk hillbilly in a bar fight.

I have done one pulling the transmission (mine) and a ea82 and ej18 imprezza by pulling the engine and I will never drop another transmission. That's my $0.02 note, unless i am dropping a trans to rebuild it like this past weekend.

to the O.P., what color do you wish to paint this brat?

meh, hatch's are just wagons for quitters!!! I like it though!

change the fluid and filter WHILE ADDING in a pint of TRANS-X, then do a multitude of R-N-D shifts to work out the valve body. It sounds like one of your clutch packs or bands is stuck holding.

I wonder how that auto trans got overheated LOL looks like you did work her a little hard

i use LUK kits in several of my cars. they hold up well and are priced right. I have seen a lot of those Valeo (who also makes the duralast clutches) kits self destruct by throwing the springs out of the clutch disk. I have had my LUK in my 88 GL 4wd wagon for 24k no probs and still kicks like new. I would say though, that you need to have the flywheel machined no matter what and the step should be machined appropriately, someone else back me up on this but last I remember the step should be .900 inch edit:i bought my LUK kit at pep boys about 2 years ago for 140 and autozone sells THE EXACT same (part # and all) for $100 more than pep boys.

i think it broke the spider gears... my best guess. I hope we can fix it for not too much dough. It only pops and grinds when you turn the car... so we will see what is up with the bugger tomorrow when we split that hog open. btw its almost out, but the dingleberry that changed the clutch last, drove a punch down the center of the shift linkage roll pin and the pin won't come out. we are gonna drill it out/off tomorrow. and drop that trans. he may have blew the center also... who knows till we tear it down. He did a 5k clutch dump in first with a nice exedy clutch. once again, it pops and grinds, only when you turn, in any gear.