Ricearu

I love telling my car when to shift. I am fixing my friend's 1987 Supercharged MR2 with a slush box. That thing has a nanny shifter from hell. Punch it and it shifts at 6k. Even if you drag the shifter down to "1". The 4agze red-lines at 7250... bum...

yes you can use a helicoil to repair that, but If I were you, I would NOT put THAT idler back in. I would get the kit and install new ones into the repaired hole and others.

really, the delayed forward engagement is a sticking spool valve, actuator (solenoid) or accumulator in the transmission valve body. The PERMANENT solution is to have the valve body (not the whole transmission) remanufactured. the valve body is completely accessible from the pan and does not require the transmission be removed, any reputable transmission shop should be able to check the line pressures on a trans while it is doing the problem, properly diagnose it, and fix it for a whole helluva lot cheaper than a full rebuilt trans. Trans-x is only "conditioning" the lip seals on whatever part is sticking and is NOT a permanent fix

he NEEDS to change the 7 year old contaminated oil before running it ANY longer... AGREED?

I will take the MT thank you. No flappy paddle gearboxes or crazy experimental belt drive gig's, just an extra pedal and a stick in the center console. call me old fashioned

rust just happens... get a can of PB blaster and some new high grade hardware and go to town. the "right" material is way more expensive over a production run. there is a reason WWII German tanks were built with bushings instead of bearings, because the parts didn't need to outlast the vehicle. it costs too much when its all going to be scrap later anyways.

i got 31.79 across the board in my GL while on a "baby binge". that thing never saw 1/2 throttle. I wanted to see what it would get. I consistently get 27-29 and even more with the slightly bigger overall circumference of the new tires and wheels, makes for an epic 5th gear. 205/55R16's on rodeo wheels I am down to something like 2600 rpms at 60mph (gps) my speedo is 10% slow now. ps. my wife's forester gets 24mpg @ 80mph and 28mph @ 60mph that lead in my right foot robs me of 1.5c per mile loil

i did that to a stuck ring on my old STD. i filled the thing up at top dead center and cranked it, that fixed it. of coarse it looked like a mosquito fogger before from burning oil before that, so I think any excess would have just squeezed by that ring anyways.

change the oil and filter (cheap is ok for this one),but add 1 quart of Dextron automatic transmission fluid to it. start it and let it run for 10 minutes. Just at Idle. shut it down and let it cool down, change the oil and filter with the good stuff and you will be set. The ATF will unstick the lifters and is almost the same thing as Marvel Mystery Oil.(slightly more aggressive and a great cleaning agent)

meh, I was just messing with you guys, everyone gets so heated, I thought I would take some heat off the fire.

Hey Jazz, did you use a OEM SUBARU tstat? if not, get one, and quick. The only aftermarket tstat I bought, (before I found USMB) lasted 2 months before it FAILED. Don't risk your engine. It just ain't worth it. Not to mention I am on my #2 EA82. The thermostat stuck and cause my system to pressurize, and blow the top hose (neglected anyways) to smithereens. I replaced the hose, filled it up and it still instantly got hot. let it cool off, and dug the tstat out and reused the gasket for a "get home" fix and it did just fine then. too bad my headgaskets were already blown by that point.

the end of that "bare" cut off piece of antenna wire you chopped off the back of the radio, is just below the console under the carpet on the driver side. the car side antenna wire has a male under there. You just need like a standard 18" antenna extension cable. lol

TOB going bad will do exactly what you said, so will bearing/bushings inside the trans. most likely the TOB.

it could also be a front hub stripped, that is if your car is FT4WD

+1 if the block and heads are non-turbo the compression ration will be too high and the parts are WAY too flimsy. Even the EA8X-T bottom ends are flimsy. When my EA82 blows, I'm going EJ. I'm Tired of cooling system and reliability issues with the EA series.

I too like the old look it has to it. Nice shot.

orrr..... changing the fluid could wash all the varnish out of the valve body and cause the transmission to go into "boat anchor" mode and be completely useless. Check the fluid, if it's dark and not a bright pretty red, drive it till it dies. I changed dark/dirty fluid in my legacy. took it 3k miles to die after changing it

or ask around for some tails. I will look but i think the set i have are for a wagon... I will keep an eye out for the tails around here.

:lol::lol:OWNED!!!!!!!:lol:

i weighed my 92 wagon with me out of it and about a half tank of gas, it was 3280. I took a bunch of scrap to the junker in the back. but that was on the way out.

i don't know george, which way does it go?:lol:

i have found the fsm for these and yes they do cover rhd and lhd, but we can't just run to the junk yard and pick up a new rack for it lol. thats what I was saying ummm rhd to.

ya, I love it because even at that price, I get un/under-insured motorist coverage, so if some no license/no insurance dumb a$$ hits me, I'm not just screwed. and I get premium towing and roadside assistance