Ricearu

umm RHD. Not common at all and I have nationwide also and love it! I took off my truck and added the forester and it dropped to 109/mo

does anyone have a FSM for this car? We need to rebuild the rack (new seals) and need some guidance before diving in.

my car gets 31+ at 60mph and 27mpg at 75mph. thats unloaded. slow down, the oil companies will hate you for it

my car has seen 110 downhill with a tailwind. seriously down the I-20 hill and that was some scary stuff. These cars HOVER at those speeds and the brakes are USELESS on a steep downhill grade.

Just throw your hands in the air and give that junk pile to me :grin: I will fix it's headlight problem j/k I keed I keed. Have you checked the mounting of the light, extra vibration may cause them to fail. also, check to see if the connector isn't burned, it can cause extra heat on the terminal and premature failure... I love your car man.

+1 on the bushings, I couldn't catch reverse on my GL until I replaced them. same stuff, different subaru lol

the aftermarket gaskets are cardboard and saturate with coolant and fail. they are just plain ol junk, like many have said, look like they have been cut from the side of a cereal box

holey moley your a friggen genious! I didn't think of that, even though when I bought my GL, the pedal was bent just so it was 1" off the floor. man it was dog slow on the drive home! with the car off, floor it (only do this once or it may flood) and have a friend check to see if the throttle is all the way open.

ooopsy doubles

bwahahahahahaha! you so funny guy lol really, I think it looks like a STARQUEST!! really though to the OP of the blue xt, that does look pretty hot man, I can't lie.

yuk. my spfi 88 wagon gets 31+ out on the highway. I can get 34 if im on a road trip going a steady 60mph on flat land. i get 27mpg at 75 mph. my advice to you is to slow down, (the car will love you more at the pump anyways)

that last picture makes it kinda look like a starion.

http://www.rockauto.com $40 for the set plus shipping NGK Part # 8004

a misfire should feel like a little jump while driving. it could easily be confused with a bump in the road to someone who isn't familiar with mechanics. I believe what he was asking was not only plugs, but the wires. The spark plug wires are important. If you bought the auto parts store special, then the CAN be the problem, no guarantees though. swap the wires like he said and see if it changes from #1 to another cylinder. I too recommend NGK wires or OEM subaru. The junk aftermarkets just don't hold up. in fact when I bought my car, it had duracraps on it. they sucked and I had misfires through the wall to ground. I grabbed a set of USED NGK wires from the JUNK YARD for a quick (AND FREE) fix. they lasted another 2 YEARS

I can say you are welcome, but really, you should thank subaru, and your cars in particular. On a side note, here in Texas, when MY car turns 25, I get to give it the gift of "safety only" inspection, (no smog check), gut it's mostly clogged cat, and a nice pat on the roof :banana:

I got off my lazy rump roast and replaced my driver side ball joint and axle. FUDGE!!! then I changed my radiator to another used one, (other one would only get hot above 2500rpm on highway) and added a longevity mod losing my stock A/C condenser in the process but hell, it had a hole in it and didn't work anyway. THESE!!!

what i meant is that they are fresh and clean. its not RTV sealant, its really clean down there. I would expect oil leaks at this mileage does anyone have a carfax unlimited I could use, I will just give you the vin?

at 16,000+ posts, I will buy what GD is selling LOL

JEEZ, that is alot of awesomeness. I forgot these are not typical 4 cylinders lol. the valve cover gaskets are hella recent, they are still blue and the engine is clean as a bell, I am guessing the HG's were replaced and everyone here is correct in thinking the hgs have been done. that is just my best guess

#1 goes on alot of 4 cylinders because it is the farthest from the rear main bearing, where oil is pumped into the crank for the rod bearings.

It makes the back rattle if you rev it, then snap the throttle, etc. I did not dry start it, I primed the filter. I always do if possible (not on my gl, because of sideways filter.) On my gl, i usually pull the ECU fuse and crank for 30-45 seconds to fill the filter. then start it. why an ej22 from a 95 automatic car? what is the significance?

not if you plug all its orafaces, or at least do it with battery disconnected with everything still on the motor. that's what I did. (just avoid the oil cap and dipstick tube lol)

HA! it is true! My GL HATES my wife driving it. Tries to overheat, busted axle etc.etc.

First night i had it, it got castrol 10-30 gtx and a WIX oil filter. Old oil was clean but dark, no abnormal metal fragments (micro glitter) in it, and the coolant was full and green, still full and green and no bubbles, no overheat, and no mix of water into the new oil. I think it is ready to spontaneously explode and shove the rod through the block. I don't know. Its not piston slap but it does do it more when cold. Can I drop the pan and change the rod bearings without splitting the case? I know it's ghetto but I just need it to last as long as possible

I bought a 1998 forester S EJ25D 2 weeks ago and 2 days ago I noticed the death rattle from the bottom end. My gauge cluster says 101,500. Is this common for rod bearings to fail at 100k on the ej25d? this was a 1 owner car and is in really good shape. only thing I can think of is maybe a gauge cluster replacement was done, does anyone on here have an unlimited carfax account and can run a vin for me?