Ricearu

I use wix. always have. It has the proper bypass valve and good anti drainback valve. they also make Napa Gold and Purolator PureONE. Never a complaint.

the ej22 has a shorter stroke. it will make a low comp engine. Just slap together an ej22 and call it a day.

I have done similar in the past, but I busted the cover off, and used a pair of diagonal cutters to sever around the crank pulley to get it off.

deep creep is the spray. PB'laster works too. but deep creep is better.

I would change the fuel filter personally. Our gas sucks and really I change mine about every 25-30k. Use wix fuel and oil filters or purolator pure one, napa gold. those are made by wix and share the same quality. Avoid fram and most store brands like the plague.

just shut up a lifter the other day with 16oz of marvel mystery oil. The heads in the car have 350k on them from a postal wagon and have been "freshened" up but that is it. Quiet as a mouse within 100 miles of adding mystery oil.

1stsubaruparts.com it's ran by a dealership they give really good prices too.

ha me too after carrying my ej25d into the house

yeah. majestic turbochargers of dallas i presume? they are the only guys I take turbos to.

don't disconnect the brake lines, get a hack saw and cut through one side of the thinnest part and bend it out of the way, do the same on the new struts, bend it back once the line is in place and reinstall the clip. Never had a problem and done it dozens of times

I will also say that that b pillar does not look compromised.

around my house we use my roommate's dodge truck. :cool:

i would keep the car. use the money to buy another car and have 2 cars! to hell with it, leave it as is and tell your passengers to crawl over.

if they total it you should be able to buy it back for 10-20% of what they pay you, It will just have a salvage title. I would get new hood, radiator, headlights and grill. Just hook a chain around a pole and the core support and slowly back up until the headlights fit right again. hammers help too.

the brighton was base of base models. a simple cheap winter beater. came with a 2.2l also had only crank windows on a legacy.

i have had them seep before lapping and none after. just did this on wife's car. deep creep ran through them like erm....water. lapped them and installed new valve seals and no more.

it's still just as bad. the head design coupled with creeping cylinder sleeves leave no choice but to change the gaskets.

Trade it in. With that kind of mileage, they send it straight to auction anyways. I wouldn't trade it to a mom-n-pop because they would probobly try to resell it and be stuck, but I would have no problem passing it off on a stealership. also, if you could get a 95 ej22 from a junk yard, be selective and find one that has a "totalling" wreck, and do the work yourself, and you are under $500. even with a ebay timing belt kit. EJ22's are hard to find around here and I paid $200 for my last one after environmental fees and blah blah blah or you could be creative and grab a intake from a 95-98 ej22 and you could use any ej22 bottom end from 90-95. First gens are pretty damn easy to come by at least for me. I am contemplating picking one up that came from auction to my local PNP and has bad timing belt written on the windshield. It's a 93 wagon and that is non-interference.

stuff it in a first gen impreza L lol. That is what I am gonna do with my ej22t later on. right now it lives in the shed awaiting it's revival, and of course money.

I use the mizumo or mitsuboshi kits, the mitsuboshi one is available with aisin water pumps which is OEM and the only ones I will use.

DOH! ha well that settles that. Now to make a big fat order to 1stsubaruparts.com.

Hahaha. I can't really afford an engine gasket set. Dey spensive! I am on a really tight budget and doing all I can while doing it right. I just got my block and crank back from the machine shop. Did the rear main seals ever change also? the parts manual shows different numbers for it too

that is what i am thinking as he said he sprayed the bearings and parts down with brake cleaner prior to assembly.

whoops. on the high side of the tolerance being what exactly? high tolerance is .0018 That is less than 2 thou. if the shop ground/polished the crank in the wrong direction, it could cause premature bearing wear also. also, did you use assembly lube when you assembled that engine, or at least straight lucas additive on them?

I found the numbers for the O-Rings I need to reassemble my EJ251 Opposed forces lists the part numbers but list multiple numbers based on some number I cannot find on the block. I found a couple of stamped numbers, one being 175286, and the other is 7314 in wierd blocky letters. here is a link to the page I am referring to engine is from a 99 outback with #5 thrust and 52mm rod bearings http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_45/engine/cylinder_block/illustration_1/ anyone have insight on this? is it 7314? is it 5286?