Ricearu

Also, check that your tension rods/mounts are tight and unbroken. I welded a sub-frame brace/tension rod mount, back together on a Mitsubishi Starion that was having the same problem. The bracket was broken in half.

push it off, if it starts, bad ign switch. My friend's Mazda B2200 did that, I just soldered a diode from the start terminal to the ignition (on) terminal on the back of the ignition switch! $0.79 fix w00t!

To reassure yourself, take your multi-meter, set it to AC current autorange. Put the negative lead on the negative battery terminal. put the positive lead on the alternator b+ terminal (the fat one to the battery) and if you get more than .5v AC voltage you have a bad (backfeeding) diode, which will wonk out the VR and cause high voltage. replace it

Mine runs anywhere between 35psi at idle and 70psi cruising. HIGH Rpm ranges it could almost tickle the 85psi mark. It ran 7ish to 45 with Valvoline 10w-30 in it. I run 20w-50 Castrol GTX in it now FTW!!!! 175,783 miles lol.

DUDE!!! I was just thinking the same thing. I wish I could have an RX. I've never seen one in person here in TX.

My soon to be '80 BRAT. Ain't she a beauty!!! She needs some TLC (Time and Lots of Cash) Lol but for $400 I think its worth it. Just needs carpet and seats, a bath, tires and some love. EA81. Motorcraft 2bbl carb conversion, factory roll bar, Has spoke wheels for it.

Cleaned and resealed a fresh (80k mile) junkyard motor from a 91 loyale (car had bad fuel pump wiring) for a friend of mine, added new LUK clutch kit, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, gaskets, thermostat, timing belts, water pump, oil, wix filter, carb intake, etc and proceeded to shove it into his '86 Limited Edition Red wagon! That was my first engine stab. This work is going towards the BRAT I am buying from him!!!! :banana::banana:

I have searched for this, and found pretty much incomplete info on the swap. I have a JDM EA82T, a GL wagon, and am soon to get a rusted out EA82T parts wagon with a carbed engine in it. Digital guage cluster and wiring is in tact in car. How hard will it be to harness swap ect. What all will it entail? Don't say EJ. I have a free EA82T. I am trading my 250k mile EJ22 for the parts wagon.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=103951 The plans are on page 2.

its a lego on a diet. Legos weigh in at 3200lbs. Mine weighs 2600 with all my crap in it. Personally I like the gearing on our transmissions better. Haven't swapped mine yet... contemplating.

turn the key between run and start, not quite hitting the start circuit, the fuel pump should kick repeatedly every second or so. Listen to see if the relay is clicking then too.

I had a loose ground on the starter bolt/bracket. If I hit the brakes or blinkers, the load would kill my car, sometimes it would just low volt the radio

Bought a chrome accel coil (the one with the yellow sticker) from a yard sale for $5. I figured it was worth it, whatever. I put it on my car and had no noticeable difference. Sold the coil to my friend with a Chrysler Conquest for $20 :lol:

I love the starter trick, I use it all the time

if a sensor(maf, o2,) is reading incorrectly, It could be dumping fuel on the cylinders which would cause poor running, rich conditions. This could cause a number of problems like gas in the oil, high CO emissions and catalytic converter failure.

does anyone have the specs on the lift blocks and "tabs" for lack of a better term to do my own 2" lift?

Pics?

What he said. I have NO particular experience with subaru auto transmissions, but I am ASE certified in automatic transmissions. I HATE THEM. My cars are standards

put a vacuum gauge on a manifold source, have a friend rev it to 2500 rpms and HOLD it there, the vacuum should drop some, but become steady. If vacuum continues to drop while doing this test, you have a restriction in the exhaust. (toasted catalytic converter, rusted out muffler baffles in the path of flow ect.) Usually the symptoms of exhaust problems will show in higher rpm ranges(higher flow) and under high load.

make sure it stays full or you will kill it, the modulator may be leaking boost into the trans. I am not sure if these transmissions have a vent in the top and if they do, yours is probably clogged. KEEP THAT TRANS TOPPED OFF WITH FLUID NO MATTER WHAT!!

Nice progress. I need to get to fab'in my lift

I missed second the other day and floated my valves... ooops. She acts as though she had no qualms about it and yes my car accasionally sees a 7k shift. For some wierd reason, my EA82's powerband doesn't come around until 4500. Before I did the timing belts, it was 3500 but had less top end. I would get to about 5500 and the cone filter and exhaust would be screaming for dear life. I swear the intake was as loud as the exhaust, and I have a topspeed pro1 "muffler". My driver side timing belt broke, so I am unsure, but i KNOW the passenger side was a tooth off. I am assuming the driver side was off also.

the tci kit costs 60 on ebay, the Gates kit costs 240 bucks, autozone wants 270 for their kit. There was never a timing chain on a EA82