Ricearu

take the spark plugs out. You wont have to fight compression then.

hit the starter solenoid with the handle end of a hammer. Have a friend bump the key while doing so. If it starts, sticking solenoid, replace starter.

check your caliper pins, then try adjusting the pedal freeplay under the dash

I second tom, suck half the can, kill it, start it up and let it run until some of the smoke clears, then suck in the other half a can. kill it, then start it up and let it idle for a while occasionally revving it a little to blow out your cat. until the smoke goes away. My EA82 had 169k on it when I did it, and it smoked for 45 minutes. The throttle response and power increase was amazing!!

***Edited for spelling and clarity*** Ok. I have a new question. What is the stamp difference between the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd generation EA82t heads?

Sell your subaru to a real subaru nut who will de-rice it and give it a good home, 1. Buy a civic, 2. buy a STOCK Integra LS B18a block with stock internals, 3. bolt a B16a head on it, 4. bolt a t3/4 turbo on it, set the wastegate to "14" PSI 5. run an untuned hondata s300 with junkyard DSM 450cc injectors 6. bolt it into the civic to a stock transmission 7. BLOW UP A CAR WE DONT GIVE A CRAP ABOUT!!! Rice out a car that nobody cares about, not a GL-10. Nobody cares how much "power" you have gotten from a EA82T at "14" PSI. If you are that bent on attaining power, please just stuff a ej257 in it an just leave it alone, instant power... NO BLOWN EA82t's. JEEEEZZZZ!!!!! My rant is done....

When they overheat, the hottest point is between the cylinders on the head. The notorious leak happens there where the coolant jacket is.

Welcome to EA82 land. I put water in mine every day. Sucks the coolant overflow dry, then fills it up upon boiling. I just pinched the radiator line with a zip tie, keeps it under control

they are easier to come by here in tx. I did not know the power difference. I am mainly an EJ guy so I am still storing info on the EA motors. My EA SPFI runs pretty good.

The definition of insanity is repeating the same thing over and over again, expecting a different result. G.T.F.O. Noob.

dude that is a clean er... i mean p.o.s. brat. If your worried about it breaking, I guess I could give you a couple hundred bucks to drag it off for a daily dr.... parts cow Really man, nice car no worries. When that engine dies, just stab a carb'd EA82 from an 85-87 GL in it.

Go with Kadron 36mm singles, I had a pair on my bug. The linkages are center pull for a vw so it should be easy to adapt it for your rig

any backfire while cranking?

is your thermostat working good, as in is it going to normal operating temp, or is it staying cold? If it stays cold, the TCM will keep the RPMs up to try to warm up the engine. The TCM code could be the 1-2 shift solenoid. What code is it throwing?

now that the clutch squeal has come into the picture, it sheds a little light, Is your car leaking gear oil between the trans and engine? The squeal COULD be a bad pilot/throwout bearing. The knocking COULD be a a worn front bushing in the trans or bad throwout bearing. This is all merely speculation based on my previous experience with all types of cars and trucks, and what you are telling me, I wish I could see/hear your car in person...

they look the same and yeah its where the hardened steel axle is eating away at the cast hub teeth. Be sure to grab the cone washer and castle nut. Torque the CRAP out of the castle nut on reinstall. From what i can find, it looks like a lot of failure on these are from improper torque specs. They seem to die about 2-10k miles after a brake or axle job. Mine had brakes 8k ago by previous owner.

hmmm no noise at idle... interesting. Not sure that it is piston slap as it doesn't do it at idle. Change dizzy cap and rotor, any other worn ignition parts, and for god's sake adjust the valves. Then adjust the timing. Could just be loud preignition.(would cause a "misfire" buck or sputter). Check the vacuum lines to the egr, pull it off and clean it out and make sure it works.(egr gas lowers cylinder temps and is closed at idle) If it persists and makes the noise loudest around 2200rpms then likely the main bearings.

I was following the above 30*, over 100* recommendation in the manual, so should I run 10w-40 or 20w-50? I ran 20w-50 in my aircooled vdub when i had it. I have a new rear main, and valve cover gaskets, I am still leaking oil from the front seal (slow) and case seal... not tearing into for that one. I am soon to swap a EA82t JDM 35k engine if all goes as planned. Also, I never had any luck with Quaker State. Penzoil eats valve seals (high detergent levels)

Here is my statement. Don't over exaggerate the question. Oil science aside, here are my results I run CASTROL GTX 5w-30. Texas heat has no need for 10w-40. I use/leak about 1 quart of oil between oil changes. I did a change ONCE with Valvoline 5w-30 (on sale ). I used 3 quarts in 3k miles. I will stick with GTX from now on. Simple question, simple answer...

My failing driver hub would squeak and "quack". Did that for 5k miles, Then it STRIPPED. I was able to limp it home. I would get another one. Takes 10 minutes with the proper tools to swap it out. Mine would quack under deceleration, braking, and slight cornering. I got mine for $15, If you cant find one, I can get one for you for the same price plus shipping...

This sounds to me like piston slap. If I had to guess without seeing... The thing with piston slap, is it occurs when the block warms up, it expands and allows the piston to walk around in the worn cylinder. The only fix for that is a to machine the cylinders and buy new pistons/rings

welcome. I have only been on here like a week but man I am all over. Loads of good info and people on here

Thanks!!

Was there any difference in design on a 86 carbureted GL engine and a 91 loyale engine, My friend has a blown engine (carbd) and I found a Loyale F.I. engine with 80k miles on it. Can I bolt the carb manifold to this block/heads

x2 do a sweep test on the blue to pos, black to neg. watch for jumps and dead spots. sounds like what mine does, only mine only does it at the highway happy spot lol (right at cruising speed pedal position)