Ricearu

you can put a v1-v5 sti flat top impreza bumper on it, you will just have to trim the fender portion. IDK on the foz bumper fitting.

check the cam position sensor (driver side head) and its wire that hooks below the throttle body, also, make sure you use the notch on the trigger wheel BEHIND the crank timing sprocket. If it's off time, the computer won't trigger spark.

sounds like the radiator is plugged. the water pump will NOT Pressurize water but the faster it spins, the faster it moves water. if only some of your radiator is flowing, it could be that it IS enough to cool it while you are moving. Borrow a digial temp gun and check the radiator for hot/cold spots AS it warms up in your driveway. My legacy with bad hg did the exact same thing. I could drive it to work and back and be fine, but let it idle for 2 minutes at the mail box and BOOM, overheat.

the knock sensor lets the ecu know exactly how far one can advance timing. If the knock sensor is out, it will run at a known safe ignition timing map. This sucks because efficiency goes up as it approaches tdc. My old leggy went from 18mpg up to 24mpg with a new knock sensor. but it was a 90 (no obd)

interference 2.2l engines are fine and will run FOREVER. Just replace the timing belt on schedule and, ALL the idlers and water pump with the belt. basically all that touches the belt except for crank and cam gears. Timing belts are extremely reliable and run LONG past their rating, 95% of the time. Some people don't change the idlers (pulleys) with the belt and at 120-140k one may lock up and wreck the belt, thus causing interference. The hub-bub about interference engines is all because of a bad name they get from people who don't maintain their cars.. :-\ Buy the car and do a proper timing belt job on it and you can damn sure rely on it for at least the next 60 thousand miles. Then do the belt and idlers/pump again. The ej22 with proper maintenance will run 250k plus.

better do your research on supporting mods/tune! they are really fun to drive! Weclome aboard!

When I was in lincoln tech, we were going to spray my friend's car in the paint shop, he let the paint kids spray paint all over it. Then he found out he needed insurance on it (parked project at the time) to paint it. Funny as crap seeing that thing in the parking lot for a few days with b.s. and genitalia spray painted on it. We ended up rattle canning it krylon gloss black.

way to de-rice and FIX it. P.O. THOUGHT he was fixing it with all those "upgrades". Bet he wondered why nobody would buy it... Oh well to each his own. Nice swap on the kit back to stock. I would be tempted to "red out" those tails and keep them for the stock look with unique light pattern but that is just me. VHT sells "niteshades" paint not only in black, but red too. I just un-murdered my brother's wrx tail lights last week and sprayed them red instead. It is kinda cool and distinct too

Your english seems fine to me! You can post anything about this in the 80's gen section http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=2 or the retrofitting section http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=29

1995-1997 are the same. 1998-1999 are two piece.

I didn't see that it was "aftermarket warranty" You have to take all this up with the dealership, and if they don't fix it, you need to take it higher with SOA. SOA isn't responsible for your warranty, but what they are responsible for is making sure the dealer does what they said they would do and make the third party pay. Take that approach with SOA instead of calling warranty department, call the dealer relations or whatthehellever they call it. Calling SOA warranty department and giving them hell isn't going to fix the problem. I have worked in the field for years and will NEVER... EVER... recommend a third party warranty service. They only authorize the cheapest parts and junk yard warranty engines and transmissions. BISH and COMPLAIN to them that they installed a bullshnitt remanned autozone turbocharger on your car and demand it be a real subaru one. Also like Ivan said, have them verify oil pressure, and that the inline screen in cleaned. I think the valves he is referring to are the oil control valves and may be causing low line pressure to the turbo feed line. http://epawd.forumotion.com/t96-oil-control-valves-on-avcs-dual-avcs-equipped-subarus

I am not trying to be mean or critique and it's a good heads up but I see that you have owned a loyale so I am sure you aren't afraid by now to get your hands dirty. Most of these jobs can be done with a simple set of tools and a afternoon/weekend Avoid anything with a 2.5 up to 05 generally, but if they had subaru or a reputable shop do the head gaskets with dealer parts with recipts, it should be able to be trusted. BUT, don't go any lower than 99, the DOHC got bigger rod journal's and bearings in 99 and are tougher than the 98 and down. If it has a 2.2l it's pretty bulletproof, just if it's a 97+ do the timing belt, it's interference.

I think the original leaks the OP is referring to may be separator plate, or oil pan etc. I put lucas oil stabilizer in my soobies and it helps with oil consumption all the way around. Helps against wear too. Honestly, there is not additive that can be better than keeping your 4 quart capacity engine FULL of oil. Check it weekly at least. Look under your car for spotting and other fluid leaks daily. I have driven my wife's car for 3 months with a pissing front cam seal, I haven't fixed it because it has 2 bent valves and low compression on cyl 3. I just keep it full of oil and drive on until my outback is fixed. Oh, and Mobile1 has very fine particles and they are all uniform, and will leak on older engines LIKE A SIEVE! I live in texas' beautiful hot climate and run Rotella 15w-40 year round and my soobs barely leak. I always say to my friends and anyone who tells me that my car is leaving an oil spot, that that's how I know it has oil in it. If it isn't leaking oil, it's probobly out...

a1 cardone shows the same part number, but i would swap on 95 inner tie rods onto the 91 rack. My roommate put a v3 impreza sti rack on his rhd 95 postal wagon 2.75 turns lock to lock It is my belief that 90-99 racks will interchange, just not the tie rods.

fronts will fit from 1993-2007 impreza rears for your car will only fit 1993-2001 impreza rears. You can use 2002-2007 impreza rears with YOUR top hats but they squeak and knock after a while. I drove my 90 wagon like that for a year. still handles awesome. school most cars on the road out in the twisties.

on some of those legacy's, there is a oil strainer inline to the turbo that subaru loves to pass the buck on. It will kill turbo after turbo. They make no mention of them in the manual and that they need to be cleaned periodically. shame shame. I would mention that to SOA

the ecu blinks 34 egr solenoid, so we unhooked it and the egr vacuum thinking it was choking it out with exhaust gas. I think ivan may be on to something with the efi/pump keep alive relay. i checked the ignition switch to make sure it was keeping the computer alive after cranking and it was also forgot to add, it is a 88 ea82 with spfi i need to go back over there and see if the fuel pump is shutting off when key is released back to run.

does it have two filters? I have replaced the one under the hood, but forgot there may be a second!!!!! And yeah its a SPFI.

tried the maf, when it's unplugged, it won't run at all put a pressure gauge inline to the feed line at the filter and it gets 20psi cranking pushed on the egr and got no difference, vaccum unhooked or hooked up. It did this to me when I owned it. Did it three times and eventually started each time. That was over a year, and 20k miles ago. exact same problem. It has a new cat, 126k motor, im a decent mechanic but I am stumped.

My brother's GL starts and dies almost immediately. Pulled the codes and has only a code for a egr solenoid Here is the kicker thought. It starts and sometimes it will run for a minute, then bog and die. It cuts off the fuel. Sometimes, not always, if you hold the key to start it will run until you let it back to "run". Only sometimes. I cannot figure this out. is there a way to find out why the ECU isn't firing the injector? Is the ECU just bad? the spark does not ever drop off but is smells "flooded"...

Got a 105k ej22 and fwd auto trans, crossmember, steering rack, and control arms, sway bar, and struts and knuckles from a rolled 95 L sedan for $250 tax included. other than that, still driving the 96 sedamn with the 98 ej22 that jumped time on the passenger cam. Still runs ok, just "chuggy" at idle. Ordering an ebay UEL header for the swap back to dual port, as the factory manifold was sacrificed to make it single port. yuk. oh well, perfect excuse to get a header and a can muffler!

I buy my parts through Renton's Walker Subaru aka http://www.1stsubaruparts.com . Some parts can be substituted with other brands, but others cannot be. Do research first. On anything.

my 98 motor bent passenger side valves when the timing jumped.

and on the cams did you use the arrows or ticks?

when you checked the timing, did you use the arrow on the front of the crankshaft gear or the tick mark on the rear crank trigger spot? also, did you remove part of your airbox and add a performance filter when you were in there?