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hartless, thanks for the response. What have they rebuilt for you and how many mile do you have on it. I have used them before once no problem, with the second engine not as good. Who else have people used a few times with consistent results?

Can anyone recommend a good source for a new not rebuilt EJ22 short block? Or as a second option a shop that specializes in Subaru for a properly rebuild one.

Ivans Imports thanks for the thought we will have to look into that. Right now the engine builder is sending hydraulic lifters as they feel the solid ones where a problem.

I agree. I guess its good not to hear that this is a common problem or the combination has been found to be bad.

This is great stuff guys please keep the thoughts coming.

NorthWet thanks for the response. Have you seen many snap is it a thing or rather unusual? Can anyone else comment on the rarity of this happening. I ask because we need to put it back together and want to know if the solid lifters and delta cam are a problematic combination. If so what do people recommend, would Hydraulic lifters be any more forgiving in this situation? What's the downside to going with the Hydraulic ones. Thanks

Sorry I don't follow the question about the rockers used on the cams. I think you may be asking a similar question to above which is was the head originally setup with hydraulic lifters and corresponding roller rockers (YES). Where the solid lifters and rockers swapped into this engine as a performance mod with the new cam(also YES). As I understand it this is a pretty common thing to do so we where surprised to see the roller snapped off around 5k miles on a rebuild done by one of the larger compaines.

It's an EJ22. I know the grind as low end torque. The rockers and lifters where swaped in.

This photo is of a broken rocker arm from an EJ22 using solid lifters and a Delta cam. Can anyone tell me how common an occurrence is it for a rocker arm to break? Is there any more likeliness for this to occur with solid vs hydraulic lifters? Any insight greatly appreciated.

Ok, I’m back from the junk yard and here is what I found. I looked at a 93 Legacy it had the Grey injectors. I looked at a 94 Legacy it had the Red injectors I looked at a 95 and took the Red injectors and rails it had. Comparing the nozzle between 94 and 95 and they were slightly different. Popped one of the injectors from the 94 tried it in my existing rail(grey injectors caps at an angle) and it fit but not really. The seal at the base into the intake manifold is smaller than the grey injectors and leave a big gap. Existing caps won’t fit as the injector tops are a different shape and moving caps between rails didn’t work either as the red injectors where to tall for the rails that take grey injectors. At this point your asking yourself why is it that I’m looking at all these little differences. It’s because in addition to the rails being unique for the injectors they are also a different length. The ports for the manifold appear to match up but the spare rail I have for grey injectors is a quarter of an inch longer than the red injector rail with the pressure regulator and about a half inch longer than the one without. My question is this. Do I have the right rails and I need to pull in the fuel lines on each end or are there yet another set of rails out there that are the same length as what I have. As a side note I checked the resistance on these red injectors and they all match. I found this to be interesting as compared to my grey injectors as they are all over the place no consistency. Probably one of the reasons I’m looking at injectors in the first place.

Here is a photo of a rail that fits my car. Inside diameter for the injector barrel is .960 and the rail bolts are on the bottom closer to the block than the intake manifold. Im headed to the junk yard tomorrow to see if I can find a set with the redtop injectors and if there is a difference in the rails.

Having a hard time reading it from the photo. I think I have most of it as XX 522 aa170 aa6 701 R65 the R may be a B and no idea what the XX is

WTDASH, Can you provide the part number off the rails in the photo please.

Thank you for the insight about the rails being unique.

Thanks for the tip on the red top injectors. This EJ22 is an engine swap into a kit car with a standard trans. Should I be concerned with the injectors auto vs standard if I go over to red tops. Also this is the second time I have seen someone recoment swaping the whole fule rail is there a reason I should go that route rather than just poping in new injectors.

I wonder if the buildup might be due to the fact that there is no gas getting into that cylinder so there is no combustion occurring.

Got a CEL the other day, pulled the codes and they tell me that Fuel Injectors #2 and #4 are an issue. Pulled out the Ohm meter and #2 tests fine while #4 appears dead short. What is my best option for a replacement injector. I see them online for $59, local parts stores have rebuilt starting at $65 “new” for $90-$118. Any opinions on OEM or a particular brand if I go new. Even thought #2 tests ok on the meter should I consider replacing that. I belive this EJ22 is out of a 1992 Legacy. Last question should my fuel injectors be this dirty?

Thanks for the link. Looks like the stuff I have in the Haynes manul. I have re read it all a few times and now feel that my original testing was wrong. I have retested and can confirm that both with power and just the ohms test the sesor is fine. So I guess it's time to start a new thread about the symptom I'm having.

Can anyone confirm for me the proper test results when testing with a meter. I connect the meter to pins 2 and 4 and with the throttle closed I have five volts. When I open the throttle it drops to .83 and that’s it all the way to full open. I was expecting to see zero or a low reading with the throttle closed and a nice even increase as it opened. Assuming I’m testing this correctly and it is bad anyone know what I should expect to pay for one and if one brand is better than another and who to buy it from.

I did the leak down test last night and I think it’s pretty acceptable. CLY 1 15% CLY 3 11% CLY 2 15% CLY 4 12%

Would that also show up with a compression check. Open valve equals low compression.

Just checked the timing. 44 teeth to the cam on the left 40.5 to the one on the right. Anyone else have a thought could it be a valve adjustment?

Can anyone tell me if this is a frequent thing. Or somthing that I should be checking that allows this to happen? The rebuilt engine has 4k on it and subaru belt.

I have a 92 EJ22 in a rear engine setup(engine swap using the factor ECU and harness). The car has become louder recently but not at all RPM’s. If I stand at the back of the car one had on the throttle one feeling the flow of the exhaust I can feel it popping just as it comes off idle and again when I release the throttle. I’m running delta cams so the idle is not completely smooth to begin with but I have done this test before and don’t ever recall the popping or light backfire like this. Any suggestions? Timing again or perhaps adjusting the valves? Any tests I can run before start tearing things apart. No codes on the ECU.

I'm trying that wire now and it does seem to make a bit of a difference. Hard to say because now I have some new intermittent issue. Got a code 33 vehicle speed sensor yesterday don’t have one of those hooked up. I cleared the code by disconnecting the ECU it was the only code. Now even though its over 75 degrees when I start the car it idle varies. Last night drove it about a mile idle was too high say 1800rpm stopped for 20 minutes drove it home still too high. Got up today drove it 2 miles idles at 2k even after the car is warmed up. I shut the car off go into the store come out 45 minutes latter car is still plenty hot start it up idle is perfect at 800. Stop again 5 minutes idle is at 1100. I haven’t had the air on at all today these fluctuations in idle started occurring after I reset the ECU. Any suggestions?