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Any chance it's the other wire Yellow with blue tracer?

Just cruising along in 4th at 2800 rpm and I swear it sounds like it’s popping ever so lightly out the exhaust. It’s a rebuilt EJ22 with 4k miles on it. I believe the lifters are hydraulic and it has a pair of delta cams that bring the power above 3500 RPM. Maybe I’m just hearing things?

Sweet, I will give that a try. Thank you very much for the help

Anyone have a sugjestion for this.

Thanks capn_r for the response. If you can look at your FSM and let me know what you find that would be great. At the plug for the compressor I have three wires Red with yellow stripe (cut at the plug let’s hope this isn’t it). Blue with red stripe intact running back to the harness and Yellow with blue stripe. Too bad the colors in the wiring diagram I have in my Haynes manual don’t match up..

I have a 1992 EJ22 that I’m running in a replica Porsche 356. Standard engine swap stuff original computer and harness cut down to the minimum number of wires. I Just added the remanufactured A/C compressor and seem to have that all set up blowing nice and cold. My question is this. With the remanufactured compressor there is only one wire(used to engage the clutch on the compressor). When I turn on the A/C the compressor kicks in and loads the engine sometimes stalling it if at idle. On the original Subaru harness there are three wires going to the compressor. One presumably would normally be used to engage the compressor does anyone know what the other two are used for? Any chance I should be connecting one of these to my existing single wire so the computer knows to expect the extra load from the compressor? Or does anyone know how the EJ22 system knows under normal(in the original car) conditions to handle the extra load. Thanks

Porsche 914 front with BMW calipers. Bug in the back with VW golf calipers Tube chassis Licensed as a 2009 Intermec Roadst(that’s all they could fit on the title). State provides a VIN under specialty car or self constructed. Car has everything you need to meet the safety requirements. Emissions did not get checked because the system is ODBI and they state computers are ODBII As for the last question why A/C in a convertible.. Because I can...(or at least that’s what I'm about to find out) I'm using the Kennedy adaptor to a 5 speed Porsche 901 transaxle well worth the money.

Intermeccanica is the base I purchsed it new as a coach. I did the suspension and engine(EJ22). On the road since Aug last year(09). Beverly is in Mass.

Replica of a Porsche 356

ScobbyWagon, thanks for the initial response. I'm waiting on the new compressor now and because of my application(Kit Car) I'm going to need to buy some fittings to make the connection to the compressor that’s why I need to know their size.

Anyone know what size the compressor fittings are for a 98 Legacy? #6 #8 #10 oring?

GeneralDisorder, thank you for the response. So would the solution simply be to connect that pin to the solenoid so it goes hot when cranking? Have you done this with your conversions.

Cool thanks fo rhte help I will check it out.

Thanks for the reply. Car starts and runs well enough. I just have an interest in cleaning up loose ends where possible, Not sure what the FSM is can you elaborate for me?

I'm running an EJ22 in a kit car. Stock ECU setup using the standard wiring harness simplified for my application running well. I'm trying to clean up a few lose ends and currently I have error code 12 which is starter switch or circuit. Does anyone know what this circuit is or what signal it’s looking for?

I setup select monitor so I was able to confirm that the coolant temperature is sending valid info to the ECU. I can sit there and watch the car warm up etc. The tool is interesting in that it shows some good info on a lot of sensors. One thing I found confusing and need to look into more is that several of the parameters seem to bounce around a bit. Like temperature might read 180 then -58 then 0 and then back to reading a good temp say 185. Or maybe RPM might be 850 then I reeve the engine it detects the change to 1200 then has zero for a few seconds. I'm assuming that it must be an issue with how quickly my laptop is communicating with the ECU. Maybe I need to adjust the baud rate or something on the port. I will also try to run some SeaFoam through the IAC again to see if that helps.

Thank you both for your thoughts. You are correct the radiator has a long run and is up front while then engine is in the rear. I will try to setup Select Monitor to see if I can watch the coolant temp sensor real time and go from there.

Ok, so I pulled it all apart the other day and counted the teeth on the belt 4 or 5 times and found sure enough I was off by one tooth on the left cam. So like everyone says don’t use the marks on the belt don’t try to eyeball the notches in the plastic just count the teeth. I picked up 30lbs in both cylinders in the left bank so while they aren’t the 200psi I get from the right they are now pushing a solid 180 from each. The cold start problem is gone now she just zips to life with one crank. Now I have to ask do I try advancing that left cam one more tooth to see if I can get the 200psi so both banks match? Also I have a bit of a new issue. When the car first starts from cold it idles at 1500rpm for the first 3-5 minutes then kicks down to 900-1000 rpm. Any thoughts on why it’s such an aggressive cold idle? Thanks again everyone for the help.

What a cheery thought, mismatched heads. I think I will take a look at that now. I assume it will be fairly obvious from how they are stamped.

So by nonexistent I mean like 2 to 5 % barely off the 0% once setup. I knew that timing made sense the piston must be on the up stroke before the valves are closed so it cannot create as much compression. Just not what I wanted to hear as I have to pull the engine mounts, muffler, etc to get in there again. I guess it could be worse I could have an internal problem.

Ok so I reset the ECU overnight after replacing the knock sensor and other than a 12 code for starter input(mines not connected) I have been error free for 200 miles or so. Thanks for the advice I’m hoping that my sensor, injector problems are behind me now. Finally got the gauges and the leak down test done and the percent of leakage seems to be nonexistent. I performed this test because two of the 4 cylinders only have 150 lbs while the other two have 200(tested them all over four times on different days(once by a third party same results each time). Any Ideas why or how I can have such different compression readings from one side of the engine than the other yet the leak down test shows no problem. Still having a cold stat problem but the symptoms have changed a bit. The car is starting better now but not great. When it does catch it chokes a bit low idle around 200 rpm then works up the courage and idles high at 1500-2000 RPM and stays that way until the engine is well on the way to warming up. Any ideas on this one? Once it’s warmed up runs reasonably smooth not perfect but reasonably and it gives a small sputter or puff about every 4 or 5 seconds easily detected when you hold your hand behind the tail pipe to feel the flow. Perhaps this is related to the rough start tuff idle issue?

Thank you both for the responses. I will try the overnight disconnect. Testing at the ECU to see what is coming back from the sensors makes perfect sense I can definitely do that once I figure out what I should expect to see.

Got the injector installed now it seems that I'm troughing codes all over the place(or maybe not able to clear them). With the new injector installed it seems to be running better. I can pull the connector on the injector and her the engine idle down and back up when re connecting so I feel they are all working now. Some injectors make a more noticeable drop than others. Anyway now I have a few codes that I can’t seem to clear. I have 21,22,14,15,16,17. 14-17 are the injectors I'm guessing I have these because of my test with unplugging the connectors. 21 is coolant sensor that I have already replaced and confirmed that the connector is getting 5v. The last is the Knock sensor(replaced that today with a new one form AutoZone). In the past I thought I have been able to clear codes by connecting the D-Check and Mem-Check wires at the same time. I do this then start the car and the codes are already there. I read in the Hayes manual that I need to disconnect the negative battery cable for 30 seconds and this should clear the codes as well but I seem to get the same results after disconnecting it for over a minute. Does anyone see what I might be doing wrong here clearing these codes? Could these be a harder code to clear requiring another process?

Thanks for the specs on from the manual. I just got a used one in the mail and will be puttin git in on Saturday. I did mesure the replament at it checks out at 12.5. Should have an update on Saturday.

Not a type O that’s user error on my part with the meter. Where should I set it? Ordered the injector this morning for a 92 and it's totally different from what I have. Looking at the photos at the parts store it would appear that the injectors I have are for a 91. Guess I will have to wait until late next week before I can get an injector.