spikedbeetle

Ha ha, That isn't my house. I just went over there to make some noise because there was almost no one around to bother. The car was running a little on the warm side. 210-225. I put some water wetter in the coolant, added some duct work and bypassed the automatic fan switch and hooked it up to the same toggle switch as my other fan. I turned on both fans as I was getting on the freeway. I drove it at 65-70mph for 15 min. It only ever got up to 205 then cooled back down to 195 as I got off the freeway. 70+ degrees outside today.

Well, over 500 miles later it's still running good. I have tried to make it to the drag strip a couple of times, but the track is down for maintenance and weather every time I can go. Here is a clip of 0-70mph. And here it is with the VW exhaust tips.

I am excited to see what kind of power difference you notice. Maybe you menyioned it already, but what is your current plan for the manifold or manifolds? I had thought if I were to do this all over again. I would probably buy a couple of aluminum blocks from an online metal supplier. I found a place that would sell a 3" x 3" cube for $30 or so. I would have the intake part drilled at a machine shop. Then I would drill and tap everything else into them. 150 sounds about right. I used 3eyedwagon's calculations. My carbs came out to 165 at 5000 rpm. Can't wait to see what you come up with!

I used a pair of single barrel 40mm carbs on my EA81. They seem to work great. I could have done a couple things different to make it better. I also found this video online of a suby motor with a lot of carb and dual port heads. I say go for it! Video: http://www.streetfire.net/video/subaru-ej18-with-dual-webers-in-a-volkswagen-beetl_92098.htm Mine:

Well, I couldn't find my special socket for the #1 stud. I tightened all the others by a couple of ft lbs. Do you think this will be okay or should I make a new "special" socket? I got the car out in the sunlight and was able to see the green better. here are the pics. This is how the last gaskets started.

I SEE MORE ANTI-FREEZE! I saw one little crystal deposit looking thing. If I shine a good light on the gasket, I can see a little green. At this point it is small enough I don't think I could get a picture of it. I took a piece of red construction paper and held it up to the gasket to see if it would soak anything up. I was just checking to see if I was mistaken, but i was not. The paper darkened a little along the edge. I think I will add a few ft lbs to the heads and just drive it until it quits. I had my fluid at about 220 or so, could my engine have been overheated? I have been stepping on the gas pretty hard, but I was told this should be fine with fresh head gaskets. Another crazy thought I have had is that I have been running an electric water temp gauge. I noticed the new seepage while installing a mechanical gauge to prevent corrosion. Could the electric gauge have caused corrosion of the gasket? Any opinions or suggestions?

Okay, so The original PCV valve and vacuum is best, but with what I have done to my engine, the draft tube seems to be the simplest solution. Thanks for all the opinions and help.

So, it looks like it will be a draft tube of some kind. I read something about how in the '60's race cars used a one way valve of sorts tapped into the exhaust to suck out excess pressure. Have you heard of these? Would something like this be any better than a draft tube, and would it work on a daily driver?

Okay GD. I see your point and it makes sence to remove unburned gas vapors from the crank case. I do not want to mess with my intake manifolds at this point. They are sealed and working well. Would this plan need a pcv valve or be fine without one? Does it look a good plan? do you have any other suggestions?

I just did some reading on PCV valves, but still have questions. This car does not need to pass emissions. There is no need for a PCV valve. So as far as crank case ventillation, should my dual breather caps work fine or should I pull crank case air through one or both carbs? Thanks

This is almost exactly what I did. I put two mini breathers on and got rid of the PCV all together. I do have an air cleaner base that I am currently not using for one of my carbs on my dual carb setup that has a line for a crank case breather. Do you think it work work well if I left a mini breather on one valve cover and ran a line from the other valve cover through an inline PCV and then into the air cleaner? Would that create the through cross flow that the engine needs to work properly? Here is how it sits now.

Thanks to everyone for your help and suggestions. I took it for it's longest drive since installing the subaru motor. I found why my water temp guage was not reading and fixed it. The car ran at 190 all the way to work this morning. After running a few errands, My drive home was twice as long as my drive to work. It ran at a steady 220 or so. It looks like I will be building some duct work, reversing the fan and installing the second fan after all. So it is just a few minor things left. I am going to have the safety inspection done tomorrow. The car runs good and strong.

Well, I got everything reassembled and running again. There is a slight ticking sound now. Probably where I smashed the thing around the lifter. Other than that I feel okay about how everything is working right now. I need to tune the carbs just a touch. I am still having one problem I had before. I had been getting a temp reading of 190. This was in September. I didn't drive it for while. Then in January just before I replaced the head gaskets, I was getting a reading of 120-125. I drilled a couple of small holes in my thermostat to let any possible air pockets get out. I tested my thermostat in some water on the stove top. It opened just like it is supposed to. My engine feels hot to the touch after running for a while. I am just not sure if it's too hot or not. I think my fan switch is still working. I doubt it is being overcooled, but I guess it's a possibility since the outside temperature is about 30-40 degrees cooler now than in September. If I can find someone with an infared temp gun, what temps should I look for and where?

I was able to have my torque wrench checked. It is very close to accurate. It may be off by a pound. I also got my head back. Turns out I did bend a valve. I guess the best thing to do at this point is to take the other head off and clean everything really good. Then reassemble with oil on the studs, nuts, and washers this time. Is there an easy way to make sure I get all of the green out of the oil pan that spilled in when the heads came off? It wasn't a lot. Right now I am thinking I will have to pull the pan again to clean it uot right. Is there a recommended break in time before I can really step on the gas? This question is for the head gaskets and a fresh valve job. Thanks. Hopefully this is it and the next time I post, It will be running strong again.