brysawn

That's the ea82 we got. The fuel system looks to be a little different then mine. But can't I just swap all the EFI stuff off my blown ea82 on to this one? Although the fueling looks a little different, I imagine the heads/block are the same. Being as it is a ea82

Thanks a lot for the information. Ill probably end up getting a water pump, and timing kits locally, so I don't have to wait.

Okay thanks. My dad has built many big/small blocks, so I'm sure he can figure it out. Any other parts I should get? What to you mean by not being able to hurt anything if the timing belts are installed incorrectly? I assume that doesn't include the timing. And for a re-seal, what seals do you recommend (and gaskets too)? and where can they be bought? For the headgaskets, Is there a kit I should buy, or just the fel-pro gaskets? We got another motor, for cheap with low miles in great condition, and while it's out he's going to do the headgaskets and a re-seal.

Someone said there was a headgasket DIY around here? I searched and couldn't find it.

pm sent

Yeah we'll see

I figured it would leak, but if I plan on re-sealing it, and changing headgaskets? I think it would be worth it

I found a complete EA82 locally, it has been sitting in the weather for about 3 years. But it has been covered by a tarp, and an overhang. It's dirt cheap. It was running when pulled, and still is complete and has oil in it. It had the typical "subaru tick". Is this something I should pick up? Should I be worried about a cracked block or head because of weathering?

Oh really? Hmm... I'll have to look into this

where can these headgaskets be bought?

Good to know, thanks.

Cut springs. Do it, you won't.

Thanks for the input. Tomorrow it's going to Smart Service to get the issue diagnosed. And if it is something fairly "simple" then my dad, and a friend are going to pull the motor and do the headgaskets along with a re-seal. This way there is no labor costs, and the motor will be fresh for another 150k.

bump for some help/ideas

Again, I am in school in Oregon, my car is in Washington. I can't work on a car in a dorm, and my parents sure aren't going to do the work. I've used smart service before, they are good guys. I made an appointment for Wednesday, and they are going to diagnose the issue. I am aware that it is not too tough to fix the problem, but it is difficult when I am 300 miles from the car.

And another issue is, I drove it for 150 miles while over heating ("in the red") and a minor knock, because I was driving home from school and was half way home when these issues started and I didn't want to leave it on the side of I5, so I babied it home. You guys say nothing should be cracked, but when they are that hot for that long, these blocks/heads are defiantly prone to cracking.

My car is in Bothell, Washington and I am in school in Monmouth, Oregon.

Here is the problem, just so maybe someone can toss me in the right direction. My car is a 1994 loyale 4wd. It has 180k and is stock. So here is some problems it has been having: First I noticed a very heavy coolant leak from under the car, then driving the temps. would get extremely high (even worse with a/c on), and when I was driving and opened the hood, coolant would poor out of the coolant reservoir. Then after all of this, there was a knock. And not until it was started the other day did the check engine light come on and blink.

Thanks for all the info. I'm not in too big a rush to get the car running. I have been driving my summer car lately and it's fine. I just want to have it done before the snow hits. I have a fine work area. A 2800 sqft garage with a lift, overhead trolley system, and tons of air tools. But Like I previously stated; I am a college student, out of my home state. So I can't build a car in a dorm, meaning I'm going to have to pay to have it done. And the shop I contacted said it would be around $1k for a headgasket and re-seal. I don't really want to get a new car because this one has a great trans. and just received brand new brakes (rotors and pads, and drums), axles, cv's, and wheel bearings. The items I listed were just put on the car and have 0 miles on them. I would hate to have to get rid of the car when I just had all that done to it. So if it's not a cracked head, or maybe just a headgasket then hopefully I can find a shop to do it for a reasonable price.

But like I posted earlier, I can get a cheap used motor, but It will have the same problems eventually. All it will do is defer the problems. Why not get the good work done while I have the money? (This is a real question, just looking for some input)

Oh okay. But another issue is time and money. Being a full-time college student its though to find either. If it turns out the heads aren't cracked, and it is a headgasket (or something of that nature) then I could end up paying $1200+ for the headgaskets to be replaced, and the motor to be resealed. Or to pay 950 for a "remaned" long block and money for labor to have it put it. Those two options would look to be close to eachother in price, and probably the most realistic options. Which would be the best option for longevity of the car, and to saving me money in the long run?

Thanks for all the info. It looks like I won't be getting a EA82T, because of the reliability issues you guys have said. I'm thinking my car may have cracked heads, but I won't know for sure until I tear into it later this week. It has 180k, so I was looking into swapping a lower miles motor, instead of changing the heads. I found a re-manufactured long block locally, and I am considering that. I bought the car for dirt cheap. So I'm thinking my options are: buy another loyale and run into the same problems later on, or spend the money and get the work done to have it last a while. I'm thinking the second one

I just wanted a straight bolt in. a ej22 would be nice, but I don't want to have to deal with all the wiring.

I was looking into that. But what does that entail?

I'm new to subaru's so go easy on me. Recently I've been having some issues with my EA82 and am looking into replacing it. I have found a good deal on some EA82T's with low miles, and had some questions about this swap. I'm sure internally they will be different, like rings, pistons and etc. But... Are the long blocks even the same? Are the blocks externally the same, and do they use all the same hardware (eg. power steering, a/c, and belt set-up)? Is the wiring a "plug and play" deal, or is it a large amount of wiring?