brysawn

So every year for the last 7 years, ACHTUNING has put on a VW cruise to Port Townsend, I have gone the last few years and it is a lot of fun. But I have finally sold off my last volkswagen, but I don't really want to miss the fun. So I'm thinking about taking my lifted EA82, but hoping some others would join (for those of you whose car can make it from Bellevue to Port Townsend and back). There are not only volkswagens here, but all different types and brands of cars. Last year there was about 300 cars, and this year there is expected to be more. I'm hoping to get a group of us lifted guys to go, if not, I'm just gonna drive my mom's mk5 r32 We could even do some wheeling when we get there. Here is the full thread on vwvortex: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5151437-ACHTUN!NG-presents-Port-Townsend-Cruise-2011!!-Sunday-March-6th Please don't flame/bash this, it is just an idea.

How do you go about doing this?

This is what I was most curious about. I would have gone with yj stuff because of the short wheelbase, I wasn't aware that Toyota stuff could be hung properly

That is actually the purpose of this thread; to gain information/a starting point to research. I understand that you know a lot in this area, so feel free to give me some more! As for the frame, I'm not looking to put a complete truck frame under my Subaru body, but to do something more along the lines of what McBrat did.

He's got Portland, you're in Wilsonville, and I'm in Salem. Count me in

I'm not sure, I see tons of jeeps rolling around with 35's and stock axles. I though the solid axle Yota stuff was tough to find, being as in 1st gen 4runners and 2nd gen p/u they were only made for 1985 (I think). I just know that dana's are tough and reliable axles, I just haven't heard too much about factory Yota stuff.

Nope, I just took off the sway bar, and something else. But I can't remember. It was really simple, and didn't take too long. Different strokes for different folks.

Hey guys, I've been thinking a long time about going solid axle. I've faced the fact that a Subaru with stock suspension isn't going to come close to a SAS'd Yota. I'd love a Yota, but I want something different. So this is what I'm thinking: I'd like to not have to place my car on a frame. But somehow build something to hold the axles/leafs. I basically want to use everything from a jeep wrangler yj. They use Dana 35 rears, and Dana 30 fronts. So here is what I dont understand: Do I have to use the yj transfercase? And can that mount to my D/R 5-speed? And with whatever transfercase I use, I'm gonna have to get some custom drivelines made, I know that. I don't want to hear that it's too hard, or that I shouldn't waste my time. I just want information/suggestions on what needs to be done.

That's weird. I had my bolts welded and I didn't have any trouble getting the blocks in. You just need to be smarter than what you're working with Also, this wrench that WASHroad made looks very helpful

I have a mandrel bender, and I live in Snohomish...

Something like this, but with a more pointed stinger: more like this:

The lower the offset of the wheel, the more it is going to be pushed outward. If your OEM wheels have an offset of +48 than an offset of +38 will push them outward about 7/16" (25mm = 1"). Here is an example: Both wheels are the same wheels (16x8). The front wheels have an offset of +27 (et52 - 25mm adapter = et27) and the rear wheels have an offset of +2 (et52 - 50mm adapter = et2). This is my personal experience, hope it helps. http://www.usacomp.com/terms.htm To summarize; basically how far the hub is from the "center line" of the wheel. If the hub is past the "center line" you have a negative offset, which pushes the wheel out from the car. If the hub is "before" the "center line" of the wheel, you have a positive offset, which pushes the wheel towards the car

When cutting the eyelet off, you need to be very careful to not hit the strut. It is very easy to do, but luckily struts are inexpensive at any pull-a-part. What you need to do is get the proper sized pipe and weld one side to the eyelet, and the other to the strut. But you have to be careful to not melt the rubber (?) bushings in the eyelet, and the oil inside the strut. What I did was after each weld I would dump water on the welds (or put a drenched rag, or put the strut/eyelet in a bucket of water) that way I didn't melt, burn, or ruin any part of the eyelet or strut. It is very tough to do at first, but after making a bunch of them, I've got the system down. There may be other ways of doing it, but in the 10+ that I have made, not one has had an issue. No cracks, breaking, or bending. And the set on my car has been on for 20k miles and been wheeled hard and daily driven and never had an issue. I guess there isn't really a "correct" way to do it. Just use your better judgement and decide whether or not it is safe, strong, and reliable.

I also cut and welded an extension for my struts. I used 1" ID galvanized rigid piping (2" in length). It is extremely strong, and the perfect size. I have done many of the strut extensions and only cut one when cutting the eyelet off. I've got a pretty good system down for holding the extension and strut in place when I'm welding them.

Are those for the rear lift?

I think all the lifts are actually pretty straight forward to make. I think you mean why is there a Mr. Horsepower sticker on a EA82. There are quite a few high horsepower EJ's out there

Looks good, but I would weld in the bolts. It makes installation a lot easier

IIRC, I kept the strut connected to the control arm via the ball joint, but removed it where it bolts into the car/frame. Also I just removed everything else, pushed down on the strut and wedged the blocks in.

No, you need to make sure that you get the SMALLER shoulder, if you get the longer of the two, it sticks through the hub and the lug nut will bottom out on the shoulder of the stud before you are able to tighten on the wheel. And for the studs, just go to Les Schwab and ask for their used lug nuts. Tell them what you need and they should have tons of them. I got all 24 of mine for 20 bucks. And yes, those tires should fit. I had to trim a little with my tires though.

Yeah that is very true. I was just going off of the metric conversion.

If they are all in correctly, you won't have to trim anything. The front block (if it is 1" wide) will not hit anything when in it's proper position. If I wasn't in Oregon, I'd zoom up and give you a hand

I couldn't find a picture, but I believe you want to point your struts in towards your car. Because when you lift it your wheels will point in, so if you pull your struts back in towards the car it will correct your camber. So make sure everything is orientated inwards and you should be good.