logic23

Just posting this to avoid any dangerous situations. On the phase 2 EJ engines intakes there are 3 sections of around 3 inch high pressure line: one on the drivers side just below where the fuel lines from the car connect one on the front passengers side ( partially covered by metal shield on some models) and one in the back going to the fuel pressure regulator The first 2 are the ones that i have seen leaking regularly I think that over time the fuel line shrinks with age so the hose clamps are no longer tight. Just a couple turns will usually stop the leaking. Make sure you have the proper philips head so that you dont strip them Some times it takes a little work to rotate the clamps around so that you can easily get to them with a screw driver. I tightened the ones on my 2002 forester S over the summer but last week wiht the extreme cold we had here in Ohio mine started leaking again. Turned the clamps a little more and havent seen anymore leaks. So please check yours and keep a nose out for gas fumes. I can add some pics if people would like Thanks

I did a little searching and found this old thread It looks like the legacy and impreza transmissions have the 4.11 final drive where the outbacks have the 4.44. So i guess i could use an outback one and swap the rear diff too. will the TCU work/shift the outback trans properly? Swap that too?

Hello, I have a 97 Impreza Outback with the TZ102ZA5AA automatic transmission. It had a 2.2 engine but i put a 2.5 in for fun. While i friend was borrowing the car 3rd gear seems to have gone out. Shifts perfectly into 1st and 2nd then just revs up when it hits 3rd. The fluid level is fine (was a little low when it went out) so im guessing that its toast. My question is: I have a couple of good outback transmissions. Will a 97-98 outbacks transmissions work/swap? I feel like ive done this before but cant remember. Thanks

Check the grounds. The main one from the negative side of the battery to the starter can get funky and cause issues. There is one on the intake that can also get checked. And the one from the battery to the body of the car. I have seen all 3 of those get cruddy and cause all kinds of issues

Thanks for that... the clutches are next on my list after fluid changes. The tires are matching but the rears are to the were indicators and the fronts are like 1/16 to 1/8 above. So im going to also swap a different tires too

No he has had the car for several years. Ill check the tires/tread depth here soon. I am just a little confused it seems like if the solenoid works with the fuse then it should work fine under normal operation. Ill figure it out by process of elimination . I have a low milage 05 forester trans with the same setup that i know didnt bind. so i can swap stuff from that if it gets to that point. Im going to try fluid and filter first then additive and new gear oil in rear diff next then attack the tail cone clutches.( swap in used unit ) Thanks

Hello all, I have a customers 05 outback 2.5 engine and the 4eat trans. (TZ1B7LCAXA) aprox 197K miles Customer brought the car in complaining of the classic torque bind while doing tight cornering. I had him install the FWD fuse prior to bringing it in to see if that eliminated the bind... it did. So my question is : if the the fuse works then the Duty C solenoid is working and the clutches are working ... correct? What should i attack next? I saw/read an old thread from 10 years ago and it looks like changing the fluid and filter are step one then possibly swapping the tail cone.. https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/123390-valve-body-replacement-to-solve-torque-bind Thanks for any help i havent dealt with the bind on the 05 and up cars . Craig

definitely has been driven hard and not taken care of. With the high oil consumption and 120 per cylinder i just went to worn rings/ blow by.. this year seems to have that issue.. Am i right that the compression should be 180-200?

Hello, Ok i have a customers 2012 NA 2.5 forester with the non CVT transmission . The car came in stalling and the customer complained of no power and going thru tons of oil. I drove it and it seemed like the transmission was slipping: when driving it seemed to ( like they said ) have no power but it also seemed to be revving real high and making all kinds of clanking noises. i tried to manually shift it and it still seemed like it was slipping (like a slipping manual trans/clutch) checked fluid level and it was OK. Drained the fluid and it smelled real burnt. I also checked the compression and got 120 across the board. I dont mess with many of these FB series engines but im guessing that is REAL low. I had a line on an identical transmission that was good so i installed that. Theres no subaru dealer close to me so i read that Max Life multi vehicle ATF works so i filled this trans with that and test drove. The shifting situation was waaaay better but still if you press down on the pedal it wants to downshift but theres no power from the engine so it just revs trying to get the car going. This is how i think the original transmission got hosed. Does this sound like a situation that anyone has heard of? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks, Craig

so sometimes you get lucky > The issue was that someone had spliced in a new coolant temp plug and wired it wrong... on the H6 there is one wire thats the same color as the H4. its a white with blue/green stripe. The issue is that its a different wire/ position on the plug. rewired correctly and ECU and gauge are both functioning properly. The splice was under the intake so it was hard to see it... like i said... sometimes you get lucky. Thanks y'all for the input Craig

yeah ive learned over the years how to eliminate the big things quickly ... this was the first time i had done this

yeah i was going to go the computer and add a jumper wire off the ground wire to see if that corrects it. You talking about the wires that break in between the body and rear hatch from repeated opening?

Ok team... heres another weird one. I have a customers 03 LL bean H-6 engine. Car arrived with an over heating issue from a bad headgasket job. I could drive the car about a mile and then it would overheat and start blowing steam etc. So we replaced the engine with a JDM unit and when i went to drive it the temp gauge shot to normal temp by the time i had driven 25 yards. by the time i had driven 1/8 mile it had pegged in the hot. Knowing that the engine cant get that hot that fast i then grabbed my scan gauge to see what the computer was reading. it was reading 246 deg ( which is as hight as that goes). The car is not hot. i was able to take the radiator cap off and there wasnt even any pressure built up... I swapped in a couple different coolant temp sensors to see if that helped.... same result. I then pulled a forester up that has the same sensor and made a jumper wire and used a jumper cable to ground the 2 cars . Now the forester was able to read the temp of the H6 engine. The gauge read normal operating temp and the computer was reading 189 deg. now we know the engine is fine and the sensor is fine. This feels/acts like a bad ground. when you turn the headlights on the gauge moves. When you turn the turn signal on the gauge fluctuates. When you rev the engine the gauge moves. I pulled up the wiring and it seems real simple: one wire goes directly from the sensor to the computer, one wire goes to the gauge and the 3rd wire seems to be a ground for several thing including the computer. Just wondering if anyone had seen this and where to start. Thanks, Craig

the window is definitely going to be the motor. 03 and up started using cheap motors (among tons of other cheap parts)...they fail all the time. I think you are better off to use the motor portion of a 99-02 forester they will last the life of the car.

yeah i was more worried about the trans computers having an issue i think all the 99-2003 outbacks and 2000-2003 forester auto trans have a 4.44 final drive.