logic23

You probably didn't mess up you trans since you couldn't get the engine started. Don't feel too bad this is a common mistake. There are three parts of the trans that need to seat when installing a torque converter. the first two are the splines and the last one is the shaft into the pump. There are two little ears on the pump and two recesses on the shaft. So if you have to pull the converter and shaft out you can look in and see the angle that you need to align them. Also watch out for damaging the clip that holds the converter to the shaft. Before i knew what i was doing i messed a couple of these up. After you have it seated install the engine, tighten bolts/nuts and drop it down on the cradle. This is when i check the converter. You should be able to put your finger through the holes in the flex plate and spin it. If it moves freely then you are good to go. Good Luck.

Are your u joints bad? They are nissan u-joints and a machine shop should be able to install new ones.

all outback and legacy driveshafts are the same except for the carrier bearing which you can swap from one to the other. The differences in the bearing is the height off the bottom of the car. If i remember right outbacks are taller. There is also a difference in length from the autos vs 5 speeds. The 5speeds are shorter.

This different part numbers for the same part happens all the time. A lot of times it a way for the dealers/parts people to make $. In this case i think that the dealer has a heavier duty / longer lasting belt that they want buyers to buy. Its the same with the 2.2 engine there are two belts/part numbers that fit it: one is a better belt.

That is not off the outback.

99 OBW Limited_dual moon roofs_JDM headlights_2.2_converted to 5-speed

I think you have a Rod knocking Ive seen it in Foresters a lot. I was just going to comment on this issue: Foresters are blowing there 2.5 sohc engines waaaaaay more than OB/Imprezas and Legacys I have only seen Foresters with blown engines. Input?

There are 2 different belts : 13020AA21C_OB/LEGACY 13020AA231_FORESTER All SOHC 2.5 longblocks are the same. -CA market and 5 speeds have different cam and crankgears -Different stuff/lay out on the manifolds but engines are the same. Check autozones website they list the teeth count, pitch, width, weight the FORESTER belt and the OB are the same in all regards except the weight. I conjecture that that the FORESTER belt is just a better belt/ longer lasting. For the pitch to be different the cams,crank gear and toothed idler pulley would have to be different...they are all the same parts.

JT95, is the 99 project car a 5 speed?

I always reuse the old ones. If you are having a problem with them leaking its usually caused warpage in the y-pipe. One trick is spread "muffler mender" compund on the gasket surfaces. Wait for it to dry before starting. This will help fill the gaps

I have an 01 forester and OBW in the shop. Both 2.5 sohc engines. The dealer called for different timing belts. I checked same teeth, size, pitch etc. It this like the CA spec belts that are heavier duty? Any ideas? I can post the part numbers tomorrow if it will help answer the question.

Not sure how long it had been leaking. This is a new customer....friend of a friend. It had its plastic cover on the bottom of the engine...i personally don't like the covers makes it too hard to see whats going on. The biggest issue is tons of oil all over the cradle and exhaust. it hadn't gotten into the cylinders.

thanks subaru for one year...split year part... I bet an earlier MAF would work.

I had a customers 01 OBW came in this week for a timing belt @ 110K. I had let him know that I have been doing preventative HG replacements on phase 2 engines when I do the timing belt etc. He said that that it had been done @65k under warranty. So i crawl under the car to drain the coolant and low and behold severely leaking headgaskets. I call and let him know the "good news" and he said go ahead and fix it. In cases like this I take a ton of pixs. To make a long story short: The dealer rushed/botched/f'ed this job about as bad as you could. 1. timing belt mark were hand painted and off a tooth (pass cam) 2. heads and block were both cleaned/preped with a dual action orbital sander leaving all kinds of valleys and scratches. 3. on of the alignment sleeves/pins in head was peeled back on itself which prevented the head from seating against the block...also damaged the hole in the head that it went into. This was the DS head which was dumping oil...go figure. 4. the headbolt torque seemed off...it was real easy to break them loose probably didn't do the last 90 degree turn. There were no marks on the bolts to help keep the torque sequence straight I have long thought that the dealers were doing shotty warranty work to get people ouit the door and out of the warranty period but this is bulls**t. I'm embarrassed for the dealer and embarrassed to be on the same "team" as these jokers. We'll see how the dealer reacts to having thier work called into question. I called national subaru of america customer service to alert them to the problem.

could also be a failed sensor. Its the 1 wire sensor on the coolant crossover pipe/ passengers side/ tucked under there real good. Hook up a OBD2 scanner that can read sensors in real time. drive until the car should be warmed up (197 deg after 5-10 min.) The computer reads the 2 wire "bigger" sensor so if the car reads normal temp but the gauge doesn't then you have a bad gauge,sensor or wire in between. The way i test the gauge is touch the single wire that goes to the sensor to ground. This should peg the gauge which =good wire and gauge.

phase 2=no MAF

Cool i saw this one on craigslist....glad it went to a member. Hey yall thats the ac condenser there behind the grill the radiator is safe and sound. I have a grill if you need one. The spedo is a 99 only problem and a 99 only part.. I have a 99 oBW and have installed 3 spedos in it...ALL FAIL. Trying to figure out a fix involving a different year. 95-98=2 wire 99=one wire Mileage is easy to reset. Come to Columbus and ill show you and we can put a grill in so people won't worry

where are you in ohio? I thought 99 forester had phase 2 engines. is yours a DOHC 2.5? auto? Im sure a 2.5 OBW MAF will work. I have one on a running engine... the weird thing is that i think the engine will run with the MAF unplugged. Ill check tomorrow...

Thats good to know. On a similar thread have you built a 2.2 with 2.5 heads? I heard they are peppy.

I have several customers with automatic Foresters that have developed leaks at the rear transmission cooling lines between the engine and trans. What happens is the lines rub on the steering knuckle until it wears a hole in them. The foresters route these lines along the bottom of the block vs the OBW/LEG that have them on the frame. So a word to the wise: go inspect yours and zip tie them out of the way. It will save you a lot of hassle. Oh yeah also use oem dual wire style hose clamps...those one at autozone/advanced/napa blow. This goes for ALL hose clamps on a subaru.

it also helps to clean the block where the sensor mounts.... fyi

There is a chart out there that ive come across with all the variations of blocks and heads. has compression ratios etc. also tells which ones are the "best" choice. 360, if you use the dohc gaskets will you run into the phase 2 oil seepage issue or the phase 1 overheating issue ?

Im in the same boat as 360: I build and sell outbacks rust free with fresh 2.2s for around $4,000. $7,000 for a pre-headgasket failure outback is crazo. Plus 99 is a tricky year. I have one and now realize that pre 99 is better. The 99 is a one year only for several parts so when stuff breaks the used pool of parts is pretty small. I am going to switch my 99's wiring/ecu to a 97. 97-98 are my favorite years. with 98 you can get the dual moon roof limited...this one is the crown jewel....

5 speeds and autos have different ABS modules but pulling the codes is the same. The other wire in the black diag. connector is the airbag....i couldn't remember that one.

This is most likely the converter box that is part of the harness. This is the box that the car wires go into and the yellow,red, white and brown wires come out of. They short out all the time. If lights are on when they aren't supposed to be=bad ground/short. Smell it....smells like burnt plastic? Unplug it from the system and your lights (on the car) should return to normal. If not then the short is further up in the harness.