logic23

OK heres a link to the pics. http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=66521&l=5b48c08a6b&id=100000515483785 1. You can see the notches the crank sensor reads. the cam sensor is different too: only two marks instead of 7 or however many there are(no pic) 2. notice the four studs. so there it is. -switched gears -put new timing belt on. It's a different belt. I have the part number if anyone needs it -new water pump. The dealer listed two different water pumps-- the difference is the impellers: one has the fan style the other the circular disk style. Looked up on GMB's site they list the same part number for both engines. -switched crank and cam sensors. I dont know if these are different but i switched them just in case.

Yeah the difference is VERY noticeable, I'll post pics. The engine i took out was burning the antifreeze. Every week or so the coolant level would drop then the engine would overheat. I never saw any leaking so that's how i ascertained the internal leak/burn.

So I finally got some free time and money to swap the engine out of my 2001 legacy that has the "i'll overheat every once in a while" head gasket problem. The donor engine is a 75,+++ mile 2001 forester motor. Soooooo today at noon I start pulling the engine. I swap the intake, replace the clutch, clean up the engine bay etc. At five I go to start it and rrrrrrrr lurch rrrrrr lurch. WTF. Sounds like an ignition problem so I pull the timing cover to check to see if the marks line up....everything looks good. Hmmmmm. So then i remember that there are two types of timing setups. I pull the covers on my original engine and wham-o the dark side of the moon. The crank gear with a million timing marks. So tomorrow i will be swapping the gears out. All this before I can tell if this junkyard engine is any good. I learned a new trick: You can take the A/c condenser loose and move it to the side so the an impact will fit in the engine bay so you can get the cams loose. Oh well, always something.

I have a cut up harness that has the plug you need... or go to a junkyard. any 2.2-2.5 95-99 should be the same plug end. Ill cut the one off my harness if you need it.

yeah... I'm all for the new parts. Off to the dealer in the a.m. This engine already had the HG etc. done at the dealer.

I am going to be swapping the 5 speed trans out of a 99 legacy gt into my 99 outback limited dual moonroof. I saw on the cars101 site that this option was never offered. Anyone else done this swap? Holla.

I've seen broken clutch forks in small pickups but not in the subaru family. Oh well add that the the list. Thanks for the advice. I'm going to call dealer and see what our price is / availability. subarugenuineparts.com had one for ~70

No doubt, Thanks for taking the time to put all that together.

I just had a 97 outback come in with a broken clutch fork(hydraulic). The car supposedly had a new clutch assembly installed. I'm guessing that the fork got a crack in it from the previous clutch/pressure plate and it finally broke. Does anyone have one of these forks.

heres a archive i stumbled upon... http://www.cars101.com/outback_archive95-97.html

No the svx isnt wrecked just real rough around the edges.. would rather stick with at car that has readily available cheap parts ( legacy/outback). I would rather go with the 3.0 out of the outbacks but haven't seen any in the local yards that I can get engine, wiring harness and computer. Whats the track record on the 3.0? good engine? Never messed wit one.

It might not be a turbo... It drove like one. Yeah I can get the car cheap (500) thought it might be a doable thing.. If anyone can point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated. Thanks, Craig

Was wondering if anyone has tried to put the 3.3 turbo engine from a 92 svx into an outback 5 speed? Just putting out the feelers

Hells yeah... this time the revolution will be computerized.

hey BIZ...im in columbus... I have my own shop.. I agree that the fluid change is a waste o' money. If you decide that its too big of a deal then head up and we can knock it out.. There are always subarus in the junkyards that we can get the solenoid and housing off of. Let me know. i can also talk you through it over the phone if you get stuck.. Craig

Yeah the broken one is fully charged so im trying this first... Thanks

Hey y'all I was wondering the procedure for removing the a/c clutch. I got the pulley off the bad one( teh clutch was already missing), I can't seem to figure out how to get the clutch to come off. I see three small threaded holes. I'm guessing that this is part of the equation.

Hey I have a friends 97 legacy wagon/auto. When you start it up cold and drive it there is a hesitation and when you come to a stop it occasionally stalls. On restart the AT oil temp light flashes a couple times and goes out. After it warms up it runs a little rough at idle and lower rpms roughness goes away as the rpms increase. Seems like more than one problem to me. Throttle body? fuel injector? water temp sensor? Haven't torn into it yet. Just wanted to see if anyone had run into this scenario. Thanks

No the 2.5 out of a pre 2000 outback will be the dual overhead cam 2.5. Though this engine will bolt up the intake and all computer controls are totally different. The 2000 legacy has what is called a phase 2 engine. Its a single overhead cam 2.5. Does the one you are looking at have a bad engine? Rod knock. I know a couple junkyard here in columbus that are reliable that have the phase 2 2.5 engines.

Where are you in Ohio?

I think the statement about the rear drums is in the right direction but i think it has more to do with the adjustment. The way break systems work is that the rear brakes engage first then fronts. This keeps the car from nosediving when stopping. Sooo what I thiny you have going on is the rear shoes need adjusted and maybe replaced. Normally the rear brakes auto adjust bu twhen they get older and rusty they stop working. So you have to go in clean them up then adjust them out by turning the star wheel between the two shoes. If you have more questions I can go into more detail.

Hey thanks for the info. So two more questions: 1. so even though the transmissions changed (4 to 9 bolts etc.) the rear differentials are the same? 2. O.K. Forgive my naivety: how does the limited slip rear dif work and what are the advantages and does the 01 legacy manual transmission have the limited slip too?

Hey guys I have a 99 Legacy GT with a blown rear diff. in the shop. Any ideas what other diffs will work? Does the GT have the same transmission as a regular Legacy? Thanks.

I forgot to add if you had the timing marks up when it "snapped" then there is NO way to bend valves. Subaru's timing marks aren't at "top dead center" they are 90 degrees off (all pistons 1/2 way down). No worries. You can also get a compression gauge that has a removable gauge. What is left when you take off the gauge is an end that will connect to most air compressor hoses. You will have to take out the valve out of the hose before you screw it into the sparkplug hole. You can take the valve out with a tire valve tool. You can loosen the rocker arm bolts so that the valves will come closed. This way you don't have to hold the cams. I could post pictures if anyones interested.

you could do a leak down test to see if the valves are bent... its pretty easy