quartus

I think I have the same issue, how do you check for that?

What is the rubber good deal? :-\

Yellow wire is "always on" 12v (for memory retention) and Red is ACC controlled power , i.e. ig switch must be turned on for 12v to be present.

Is the lime green connector just a single terminal? The relays are for AC (with 15a fuse) & electric cooling fan.

Here's from the Seafoam website about lenght of time to leave in oil before changing based on pre or post addition: 1. As a pre service cleaner for old oil residue, sticky rings or valve train noise, pour 1 ½ ounces of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the engine oil crankcase for EACH quart of oil capacity, including filter. Drive a MINIMUM of 30 minutes/miles, MAXIMUM 100 miles, and then do your oil change service – Lube, Oil & Filter (LOF). This begins the process of safely/slowly re liquefying the old oil residue so contaminants may flow and be filtered. This also makes your old oil dirtier, quickly, so a LOF service is necessary when the oil gets dirty. Great for Turbocharged & Supercharged applications where oils deteriorate so quickly due to heat, and leave those residues that NEED CLEANING. 2. As an after service additive into fresh oil, nearly fresh oil, or oil (used condition) that is NOT ready to be changed (based on mileage since last oil change), put the same amount of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the crankcase as described above, and then regularly monitor your oil for color and clarity. Set a predetermined schedule for checking the oil condition on a mileage, timed, or event basis (like every time you add fuel, etc.) to determine when an oil service is necessary. Monitoring of the oil for color and clarity will tell you when it is time to do an oil change service. NOTE: Do not exceed 3,000 miles without changing the oil.

Yep that worked for me, put grease in joint, clean boot surface off with alcohol, cut the tube in a nice strip, coat both sides with rtv and loosely wrap cv/doj boot (quite messy), tywrap it in place, let dry.

The turbo is all stock and boost is currently only around 5psi (working on that) and fuel pump is new & the pressure is ~ 40 psi.

Not stupid, no just regular gas.

I got the combo boost/vacuum gauge. No bucking more like a bad miss.

86 GL-10, it has the flapper style MAF.

Save your money & time! Here's my experience. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=104088

Yes, new NKG plugs (0.040 gap) & wires, also new cap, rotor & stock coil. Took plugs out again last weekend just to be sure gap was correct & wire boots were seated, I did notice 1&3 plugs were tan but 2&4 were black and I think I caught a whiff of raw gas after the "stumble" yesterday.

I have a continuing problem with stumbling while boosting, a common reply I see for stumbling or misses is clogged cat. How exactly do you check for a clogged cat or other exhaust restriction? Other posted threads on the problem http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=105402 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=104058

Rebooting sounds like a real pain, where do you buy yours? Do you know the spline count I would need/ I'm guessing it would be a good time to replace ball joints too since its disassembled.

OK now it makes sense, the pot is the controller and the wastegate is kept closed by the spring when its not being "controlled". Thanks, now I see I have a mod to make and I know the turbo is good! Has anyone already done this mod successfully, some photos would be great!

While fixing something else on 86 GL-10 EA82T 4x4 SW, I looked down and saw a big tear/gash in my DOJ (double offset joint) boot. Are there repair kits for these or is it a big disassembly job to fix them? I was wondering where all that grease on my Turbo downpipe was coming from. :-\

I think I have a purely mechanical setup, I just tinkered with it and it appears that the pressure/vacuum diaphragm attached to the wastegate has just a single line going straight to the turbo (intake manifold side) discharge hence the wastegate opening is "assisted" by intake boost pressure. I tested this theory by disconnecting the vacuum (pressure) line from the diaphragm and test driving it. The boost went easily pass the 5psi and I stopped boosting at 9psi (for fear of blowing out something) but it could of went even higher (maybe the psi equivalent of the spring tension holding the wastegate shut). I didn't see any obvious adjustments to the diaphragm to limit the "assist". Anybody have any experience with these?

So you're saying my wastegate is opening and limiting my boost to 5psi? Parden my noobyness (1st turbo) but I thought the boost control was physical, ie wastegate spring strenght and the pressure (vacuum?) applied to the diaphragm module(?) attached to the wastegate.

I get a fairly loud clunk from front end of 86 GL-10 4X4 SW whenever I hit a small "high to low" change of elevation on/off road. Is this lower ball joint, strut assembly or other problem?

Can I bump up the boost on my 86 GL-10 EA82T? I'm only getting ~ 5psi full boost.

86 GL-10 4WD MPFI Turbo Wagon is up to ~22 mpg on back roads but I'm sure I can get better after I fix my stumble when boosting :-\ .

The two parts you have circled are the temp gauge sensor (the left circle) and the thermostat gasket. Definately would change thermostat (OEM) & gasket and see if the sensor needs tightening before I did anything else.

LR is blue with red stripe

The one closest to the battery is a green link and controls either the fuel pump relay or the headlights (I don't know which, you could alway disconnect it or the other green link and see if your headlights still work). The source for them is either a JY or the good folks here at USMB. BYW, the link order from front to rear is Green, Red, Green & Black.

Dry it is! I thought so but wanted to be sure. The leaky front exhaust pipe has been replaced, I can drive with the windows rolled up again without CO poisoning