DrRockNC

Interesting. I actually got a knock sensor code a few months back and replaced the sensor. I was careful about the torque, etc. and the code hasn't come back. Now, if I could only remember if my rough start/idle issues began before or after that. I think before... Or were you talking about this as a cure for the misfire issue? Thanks!

Thanks for the info. I'm a novice DIY mechanic; how does one go about diagnosing/repairing a stuck lifter. Thanks again!

At least twice, maybe three times :-)

Thanks for all the tips. To be honest, I can't remember if I mentioned this to CCR. If I did, I think I was told to change the coil pack or something like that (which I did). The cylinder 3 and 4 misfire seems to be a gremlin that several of us have had a very hard time eradicating (e.g. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=90806&highlight=p0303)

Thanks for the info! Part arrived yesterday, but now the hard part: where IS this coolant sensor? From the schematics I've seen, which are hard to read, it appears to be under the intake manifold. Is this correct? Do I really need to remove the manifold to access the sensor? From what I can tell, that operation is non-trivial. I hope I am making this harder than necessary. Many thanks!

Hi all, here are the facts: 1998 Legacy Outback, 187,000 miles total; 60K on a CCR engine. Car has been throwing P0303, P0304 codes for years. I gave up trying to fix this problem, never seemed to be a real problem anyway. (Cylinder 3 and 4 misfire) For the past 6 months I've been getting a P0440 code (evap system). Need to fix, just haven't gotten around to it. The problem I am having now started about 3 months ago. On occasion, usually when the car is cold, but not always, it won't start on first key turn. Sounds like it's about to catch but doesn't. Then I turn key again, and it cranks and cranks but won't start unless I press accelerator to the floor. It eventually starts then. Also on occasion, right after starting, the idle can be very irregular. Races up to 3,000, dives down to 700, goes back up to 2,000, etc. After the car gets warmed up (a few minutes) idle settles down to 800 or so and stays there. Could the evap system problem be causing the starting and idling problems? If not, any ideas on what might be the source or how I might track down the culprit? Many thanks!

Thanks for the comments. I disconnected the outlet pipe from the base of the cylinder, and two days later, no fluid has leaked out the hole. Weird...

Might as well just buy a new master cylinder. Uggh.

Hi all, I am in the process of replacing the slave clutch cylinder on my 98 outback (pedal-sticking-to-floor issue). I reassembled the system and could not get the system to bleed. Every push of the clutch pedal met with zero resistance and no fluid moving through the slave, just a little air. So, now I am wondering about the health of my master cylinder and was wondering if this is a valid test of the master: I detached the metal tube that goes from the master to the rubber hose on the slave, topped off the master cylinder with brake fluid, screwed the plastic cap on tight and then pushed down on the clutch pedal. I expected a stream of fluid to come out of the bottom of the master cylinder when I did this, but again, pedal moved with zero resistance and no fluid came out of the cylinder. So, have I determined that my master cylinder is bad? Or could this be due to a big, bad air bubble keeping the fluid from coming out? Thanks in advance! Kevin

Good to know, I will keep the cap on when I try to bleed. Problem now is as follows: I disconnected the lower metal tube from the bottom of the clutch master cylinder and screwed on the top plastic cap. Pushed the clutch pedal down (no resistance at all) and hoped to see a jet of fluid shoot out the bottom of the cylinder where the tube had connected. Alas, nothing came out. Does this mean the master cylinder is now shot as well? Thanks! Kevin P.S. I had to create a new user name. Long story...