gl2tosl2

I found them. On my car (98 obw) they are not accessible from inside the engine compartment. They are attached to the frame inside of the front fenders. Access (theoretically) requires removing the front wheel and the forward mudguard. At least, the right side of my car requires that. The mudguard on the left is so loose it can be pulled open by hand far enough to see the components. I'll start with that one, with a flashlight I can see quite a bit of rust on the sensor mount/casing. I haven't actually gotten in there yet. I won't have time to get to them until sometime later this week. I'll take my time and hopefully won't break any plastic bits.

I'm confused. ABS sensor? I thought this was a different thing from the airbag sensor. On another note, the light has gone out on it's own. This makes me think that the flaky connection theory is probably right.

As far as I know, the car was never wrecked/repaired. But we've only had it 1.5 years. I do have a copy of the service manual. From that: Code 3: Front sub sensor harness is faulty. Front sub sensor is faulty. Code 22: Airbag main harness circuit is open. Passenger’s airbag module harness circuit is open. Airbag control module is faulty. A bad connector seems highly plausible. We live in MN with salty roads, other problems on the car have been fixed by cleaning electrical connectors. Does it seem sensible to start by looking at the connectors to the front sensors? Are those hard to get to?

Cruise control works.

Horn works. I haven't tried cruise control in a while (mostly city driving), but we're headed out right now and I'll give it a shot.

I've got a 98 outback wagon and the airbag dash light is on. I followed the instructions in the thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=117181&highlight=airbag+code and got codes 22 and 3. What do these codes mean? Where should I look on how to fix this?

A heat gun is perfect, but a standard hair dryer will do the trick. Just don't overdo it

Yeah, both hoses and clamps is my intention. I don't have any hose end expansion tools, but what I usually do with rubber parts that are a tight fit is a little bit of lube and a heat gun to warm the rubber up and make it a little more malleable. The lower end of the lower tube is the only one I can't get to from the top of the car. Is it tucked inside of the frame rail or something? It was 5F when I was looking at this and I didn't feel like crawling under to take a look.

3/8 id?

Sweet. Thanks. Upon close inspection there's small cracks in the end of the upper hose so I'm going to do that one and replace the clamps at the same time.

I have a 98 legacy obw. It has a ATF leak coming from the lower hose where it connects to the radiator. Is this special tubing or can I just go to the local parts shop (NAPA or Advance or O'Reilly) and pick something up that will work? EDIT: It's hose #20 in this diagram http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_45/cooling_system/engine_cooling/illustration_2/

Does it turn over and not start? Or does it have trouble turning over? I've seen behavior like this caused by bad/worn out plugs.

I'm originally from CA and have only been in the midwest for a few years (5? where'd the time go?). This is going to be my first winter with AWD, I've had a FWD Geo Metro (hatchback) up until now. In CA we didn't have snow or ice, but we had mud. My experience has been knowing how to handle your car and what the limits are is far more important than having more driving wheels. The only other thing that seems to really matter is having good tires. I've taken the geo on plenty of winter trips (east to toronto and west to CA) mid winter without trouble. Though I saw plenty of SUVs in the ditches. Get decent tires and slow down if conditions are bad.

I've got a 98 legacy obw with a ej 25. I've marked up a couple of your pictures. I'm calling the rubber pieces you can remove hoses, and the connections coming out of the airbox tubes. Hose #1 goes from the y in the pcv system to the tube that I've marked as #1 in the air box. The two hoses in the same picture as tube #1 should stay where they are in that picture. Hoses #2 and #3 don't attach to #1. They go from tube #3 that I've marked in the picture to tube #2, that is on the back side of the airbox -- opposite of where the airbox connects to the throttle body. So yes, hoses #2 and #3 route one tube on the airbox to another tube on the airbox. Don't ask me why. Hope this helps.

I put the new radiator in this morning. Burping seemed to go all right. I'll keep an eye on it for a while. At this point, the fans are working and there are no external coolant leaks. Thanks for the help.