capmarvelous

hey Sam any ideas on what is the best lube for that. I was just reading the web, some people said stay away from synthetics since they will eat up plastic components, also said use a silicone based lube but then they said it doesnt last that long and it may freeze in the winter temps (not a problem for Texas where I am at though). What did you use Sam? Thanks

Thanks Dave, will get on it this next coming weekend.

I have this 92 loyale that the driver side electric window is starting to really move slowly into place all the way up. Have to help pull it up. I was checking prices and autozone was like 144 dollars for a rebuilt motor. Are there any newer subaru models whose motors might work? Anyone got the motor for a better price somewhere else? Any other options, like is it easy to take apart and change brushes? Are brushes available for it? Any opinions would help.

I guess you only wanted to take one girl downtown that day and show her off, and it was the Turbo chick hahaha. Nice to know where your heart truly lies. Now if you could just as a bonus do the same photospread but instead of the Turbo feature the other girl with the black stockings and the dress, you know the one

Does the heater work well in the car? And is the air blowing on the windshield hot?

My 92 loyale has the check engine line come on every once in a while, I remember reading here it was due to a certain emissions valve and that it doesnt affect engine performance. The light blink code was 5 blinks... something like that, which is what mine had. I think the valve is on the passenger side of the engine towards the back side of the engine. Does anyone have a link for replacing that valve at a reasonable price?

Sweet, how much? And whats the history on it? It looks really clean and well cared for.

Found the link with the Subaru full service manuals http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation.aspx

Well the good thing is if I run out of toilet paper I can always reach for the Fram filter the pleated paper should make for a thorough wipe.

It always amazes me that these Brats brand new were about 6,800 dollars. How many amongst us now wouldn't pay that money if that exact car were still made brand new today. I truly believe that Japanese cars from the 80s were the zenith of reliability and design in the automotive world, ever, past present or future.

Mesmerized right here, keep them coming Jeff. I am going to follow this topic and I agree with BumbleBeast. You will do great. You have the skill set that few people out there can match. Just call up your old customers and give them your new location and set up shop in your garage. You can also do a little mobile work also but if you can bring the work to your garage its better. Nothing beats being able to pop into the house for a nice cold beer and a snack, or if you want to take a breather in the Lazy Boy and surf the web for a break. One great thing for mobile is checking out used cars for used car buyers. When I was in LA there were a few outfits like that and they advertised with adds in the yellow pages and leaving little cards under the windshield wipers.

That Scotty Kilmer guy on youtube is a backyard mechanic and he does a pretty good job. I mean if you have a garage there is no reason why not to do it. One of my family members does it with the stand alone garage next to the house. Does pretty good for himself and he is in a more rural area.

I agree, a Craftsman set of combination wrenches from 7mm to 20mm is about the most ESSENTIAL component for working on any car. If you watch Sears specials you can pick one up for less than thirty bucks. I once got a set for 19 dollars on a special sale. From that point on if you grab one of those Sears Craftsman mechanics tool sets with the 3 ratchets (1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch ratchets) and a great combo of sockets, like can be found in their 179 or 210 piece sets, all of which I have gotten on sale for less than 79 and 99 bucks respectively. The combo wrenches and the sockets will solve 99 percent of your working on a car tool problems. One thing that I consider the poor mans impact wrench and is indispensable for saving the skin on your knuckles is a good rubber mallet that you can hit the combo wrenches or ratchet with to get those tough bolts or nuts off, just make sure to use the other hand to hold the tool on properly at the nut to prevent it from coming off and stripping the corners when you hit the combo wrench's loose end with the mallet. Also with the forum, plethora of youtube videos, and shop manuals in pdf, there is no reason to have any surprises for what you will need to get the job done right.

http://www.4shared.com/office/Uibwprmv/24542568-How-to-Keep-Your-Suba.html here is a link to the book suggested about keeping the Subie Alive Someone here had a link to all the factory manuals for the different engines. I think if you dig around or ask someone will put up that link, I dont have it handy.

Agree, its always good to have a backup car in the family. I did my CV boot by buying a rebuilt axle for 40 dollars from Autozone and spending about an hour getting it in since it was my first time doing it on a Subaru (Loyale 92). The backup car can stay parked and uninsured when you dont need it, just start it up once in a while. When you need it you can add it to the insurance (with Geico I just get online and add it in less than a minute, taking it off is just as easy). I of course registered mine and the cost is not bad since its an older used car (honda accord 87). I think my cost was around 50 bucks last time I registered in here in Texas. The Loyale is used by my Dad as a daily driver in Ft Worth for running errands, shopping etc since he is retired. In the five years we have had it the only money put into it was a new fuel pump (140 dollars) right after I bought it since it had been sitting a long time and apparently that can mess up the fuel pump, a CV shaft, new tires, rear hatchback liftgate struts (about 27 dollars for both), normal oil changes and the brakes (and a master cylinder about 35 bucks which turned out not to be the problem but rather adjusting the parking brake properly). That is it in five years of reliable daily starting and operation without any fails on the road and no car payments for 5 years of ownership. The money saved is amazing in my opinion. Say car payments are 200 dollars a month in a year that is 2400 dollars, in five years that is 12,000 dollars. Mind you I got the Loyale for a steal with 122K miles on it since the guy couldnt drive the car because the CV joint was busted real badly and he thought it was the transmission since it would make a terrible racket as it rolled. I got the car for 74 dollars which was the cost of what the junk yard was going to charge him to take the car out of there since the apt bldg wanted the car moved since it had been parked on the side of the bldg for over 1 year and the fire dept did not like it on their inspection. The body and interior are tight with no rust or major damage, just some very minor dents. If you find a decent used car putting a little money into it if it has a solid engine is much better than paying 200-300 dollars a month in car payments. And if you ever miss those payments for whatever financial reason you lose the car and any money you put into it up to that point. If you are not familiar with cars its always good to take it to a mechanic and have them check the compression etc. One buddy of mine who sold his Eclipse saw the buyer come out with one of those mobile mechanic van dudes that did a compression check and thoroughly checked out the car, the guy even jacked the car up corner by corner and took the wheels off to check the brake pad thickness, I was impressed. I recently did the brakes on several family cars, a mazda 3, altima, and a blazer. Pep boys was quoting 130-200 dollars per axle. You can do the math how much I saved. And brakes are something you will spend money on even with a new car after the first two years depending on how you drive. The altima my mom drives also needed a new radiator since the top plastic tank was cracked (right where my dad likes to rest his hands when he opens the hood to check the fluids. I had it in the back of my mind to tell him not to put his hands there but I always forgot. It was 100 dollars for a radiator that was better than the original, at Autozone. Again worth doing that and the radiator hoses. Car has 170K miles on it but again compared to spending say 250 dollar monthly payments for a new car over the course of a year, you do the math. I am always surprised to see that autoshop is not a required class in high school. Many schools are closing down their auto shops so they can give the kids more algebra class time. In my opinion learning how to do a tune up, brakes, other basic maintenance and learning about a car's systems and how to do basic troubleshooting is probably a thousand times more important in life than a kid solving an equation. And this is coming from a former math teacher.

Great car, brings back memories or shredding the dirt roads of Lake Arrowhead area with a wagon similar to this one, it was one sweet ride because if I remember correctly it had a turbo in it. We were working at a summer camp there and the Subie was one of the staff cars there. One of the best most fun cars I have ever driven so far. I love the look of this body style much more so than later models.

Hey Jono I have a funny story about those side draughts on the VW. I had a 71 VW bus and I was cruising at night to Santa Barbara to go surfing with a buddy of mine. We were still in the process of getting an interior for it from junk yards so there were some screw holes that led to the engine compartment from the interior. As we are cruising my buddy says hey you left the light on in the engine compartment, I can see a light through those screw holes. I was like there is no light bulb in the engine compartment to begin with. Stopped the bus right away and went to the back and the engine compartment was in flames, a quart of oil I had on the sides of the engine bay where the air tunnels are had fallen into the engine and come into contact with those side draughts that are part of the exhaust manifold. Fire was dripping from the engine compartment to the asphalt, I guess it was the burning plastic but it sure did look like the oil was burning also. Thankfully I followed the advice of VW veterans and carried a fire extinguisher in the car. Luckily the flames had not burned the fuel line. Fire was put out and we were able to continue on our way and had a great trip. I keep on thinking what would of happened had my friend not noticed the flicker in the back through those screw holes. Had that bus for a few more years, even drove it 2000 miles to Cabo San Lucas and back along Hwy 1 in Baja California. Great car, had to sell it eventually, but it served me well for a good 7 years.

That is the thing in your video, that thing that goes across the throttle and has the jet, I had mine not perfectly aligned when I put the carb back together on my mitsubishi cordia, It sits in a slot on either side of the carb, if its not perfectly seated you will not get the fuel coming out when the venturi effect kicks in. I had the exact performance issues you did after rebuilding my carb. Just take off the top and make sure those things are sitting right. May also want to blow some compressed air to make sure nothing is blocking the passage.

Pretty cool stuff. I subscribed!

Hey Jono why did you hook up your O2 sensor to a display, I know you said you dont have an ECU. A little confused, I thought any car with an oxygen sensor must have some form of ECU to adjust the air fuel ratio.

Sapper I had the exact same problem as you on a rebuild of a Mitsubishi Cordia carburator. When I put it back together I had not aligned perfectly in its place the crossmember that goes across the throttle opening which squirts the gas. I was still able to put it back with that slight misalignment. When I took it apart I was able to see it was not sitting well. The answer is in your putting things back together.

Subasaurus, I know you can check O2 sensors with a volt meter. I think they should be fluctuating between 600 to 800 millivolts. There is also a resistance check. If you search online you can find the readings you should be getting. When an O2 sensor fails the computer will go into a preset mode for the stoichiometry settings. It may be that mode is perfectly fine for your car to run without any issues.

LOL sorry I was not paying attention Here is the bleed sequence I had used the second time around http://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Subaru-Coupes-Sedans-Wagons-1985-1996-Repair-Guide/BRAKE-OPERATING-SYSTEM/Brake-System-Bleeding/_/P-0900c1528006755c FL, RR, FR, RL which matches this site http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/YourConfused/40941.pdf I agree Jono getting on the MC is an exercise in frustration. I am surprised they dont have some sort of flexible hydraulic lines that can be used.

Hey New User I have seen some people give a sequence here. I used that one for my first bleed. Second time around I used the one from Autozone web site. Both didnt do anything for my sinking brake pedal.