man on the moon

I've used chewing gum on a radiator split. Chew it up a bit until it's gummy, and use a toothpick or similar to work it into the crack/around. Ideally let it set, but it works wet. I've also used it on hoses on the road. Superglue in theory would work, but loses it's bondingness (real word, I swear) around 150 degrees, so you're pushing it unless there is something else (like wrappingin duct tape). I've done it with only mixed success--plus it's a bear to remove, even worse than the gum. I have my electric fan on a switch as well, and for the same reason. What else...I cut a blown gasket from cardboard once (like what a shoebox is made of) for the thermostat. Didn't last long, but it lasted long enough. I've slathered my fair share of silicon sealant on vaccum hoses where they cracked. In a borrowed truck to tow a canoe trailer for a scout trip i had to wire the wiper motor direct to the battery with uninsulated wire, we wrapped it with electrical tape and screwed it to the post via the cable clamp. The wiper switch went out in a big rain storm. That was the same trip where the dashboard light died and, on the way back home, the differential gave out in yet another rainstorm, coming down a mountain pass, in the dark, in a construction zone. That was a hell of a trip, but I only fixed the wipers. Best part is that due to all the rain, we didn't even end up using the canoes. Two weeks later my roommate (whos truck it was) replaced the differential, took it on a test drive, and got T-boned...he was fine, but the truck was totalled Love the log/strut...wow. Gonna keep notes on some of these other ideas!

Here is a link to the thread offering parts and stuff through his shop: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/129903-help-me-help-you-sale/

Send ShawnW (one of the admins here) a PM, he may be able to help you as he has a Subaru shop and knows a lot of dealers in the area, if you're willing to work with shipping.

I have an update about this now. I removed the thermostat around the end of August, just in time for several days of cloud/rain. Since then it's been hot, cold, sunny, cloudy, and...floody. Through it all, the motor temp has stayed happy. Now for a new thermostat, I guess??? The only real problem I've had is in stop and go traffic on sunny days, the single (original) electric fan doesn't quite do it, and there is no clutch fan with this motor. I did pick up a pair of fans from a land-rover down at the junkyard, so hopefully that will help. Gotta install them, and maybe find a lower temp switch for the second fan. I think TheLoyale had a good post about re-wiring the electric fan with a lower temp switch. The Land Rover fans are because they were slim and the right diameter. By my tape measure they should just fit between the grill and the radiator, leaving the motor side of the radiator empty and open. I'll report back when I have them in place.

You can ask for L-shaped pieces at most auto-parts stores. If they don't carry them long enough, ask for a longer section of straight hose and you can form a loop out of it--you would need about 2-3 feet to make the loop without kinking, but there will be no negative consequence aside from needing a few more ounces of coolant to fill the extra volume.

Why would you need to relocate it? No idea what thread you're talking about.

If you do end up having to cut a bolt, try sticking a screwdriver in the hole and mark the length you would need, cut a wee bit shorter than that. Hopefully you can find a straight replacement, though, of course.

As far as I know, it is not necessary to remove the intake manifold, however, doing so makes the pipe part of the job a lot simpler. Yes, it is the heater core pipe. Removing the intake manifold is not too bad unless a bolt breaks, then it's more trouble than it's worth. Might be easier to try the job with it in place first, and then only remove it if you really have to. I don't know that you'd have to replace it with a Subaru specific part, per se, any length of aluminum pipe of the right diameter should do the trick, unless you're tied tot he idea of bolting it in place.If you are worried about it rattling at all (it shouldn't( get a few extra inches of hose and wrap it around the middle to prevent too much banging.

If the coolant is low, the gauge will read very low (and hopefully you'll know why). If your coolant is full, though, the upper rad hose should read the same or within about two degrees of what the temp sensor in the thermostat housing is reading. If you make the error of putting it in the LOWER hose, then yes, you will be way off, but the upper hose shouldn't pose any problems after the 'stat opens.

letank: read the post just above yours. Hopefully the guy is still there, this thread is from 2004!

If your thread diameter and pitch are the right size, you could replace one of the coolant plugs on the bottom of the head with the temp-sender as well.

You can pick up in-line "T"s that fit in the rad hose. You would cut the hose and fit the T in the cut, secure the hose to each end. The temp-sender would screw into the T. And if such a thing doesn't exist, invent it and make a few million bucks (just give me a royalty!).

Running straight water seemed to make no difference, but that was prior to replacing the cap and one of the hoses. Running without the 'stat *seems* to make a difference, the needle is now running in the lower half of the range...however, it has been COLD AND RAINING AND CLOUDY the days since I took it out, so no apples to apples , go figure! I went to the stupid frustrating O'Reillys the other day for a couple random things/coolant/etc. Desk clerk I got was beyond incompetent, I won't tell that story now as I'm sure we all have them. BUT while I was poking around the aisles attempting to decipher what he "explained" to me, I stumbled across the thermostats (which I hadn't asked for). Turns out people are now making "fail safe thermostats" that somehow fail OPEN if you overheat. I don't know if this means they will open IF they fail, but it seems like a step up to at least have one that will jam open if you overheat, rather than jam closed. I assume it's for more of a "when climbing a mountain and not watching the temp gauge" type thing??? Not sure. I'm waiting for a hot day so I can compare apples to apples, then throw a new 'stat in there and see what we get. Suppose it could be the impellers--I could pull the radiator hose off easily enough and take a peak, no?

Not as worried about parts as just the p.i.t.a factor. That said, need some shipped down there?

I've changed the radiator cap a few steps ago. Will watch over the next few days now that I've pulled out the 'stat and see how things go. I assume if I'm still overheating after pulling the 'stat I have some big problems. And it's NO THERMOSTAT, not 'new-may-fail-out-of-the-box' until I've sorted this mess out. I'd hate to do head gaskets, first time on an EA81 though, and it looks SO MUCH SIMPLER than on the EA82. We will see, I guess?