man on the moon

I have a couple favorites of my Loyale. A wide shoulder in Nevada where I stopped to sleep. This was 6am or so, early light, cool weather. She just looks happy Same spot, looking forward to a days travels. Windshield shot, later in the day. The camera had a little trouble aligning the shots for the panorama (it is an automatic function), probably because I was moving. I only tried once as I decided not leaving the road in violent fashion was in my best interest. I got a ticket in Salt Lake City for parking 2.5 hours in this 2 hour spot. On a Sunday morning when no one was there. The two traffics behind me were moving and the panorama function had trouble with that, too. Apologies. And my other other OTHER favorite? My dog, trying to tell me it's his turn to drive:

If you lack the tool for grabbing and turning the camshaft, put the belt on and turn the main crank pulley until the cam is lined up, then remove the belt, align the crank pulley, put the belt on again. No need to snug it all up until everything is final, just put a little tension with one hand or slip it over the tensioner without tightening it too much. You aren't starting the motor, just using the belt to turn the cam until it's in place. Once it's all in place, do tighten down, of course.

A subtle fuel pump or ignition cut-off is way WAY easier than the locks. You can do what a couple others said and use a proximity switch (like is used in safety guards for power tools/machinery). Put the switch inside the steering column, interrupting the starter circuit--and the activator as a key fob. Just hold the fob TO the plastic in the right spot while you crank the motor, no one will notice. Use an RFD tag if just a plain magnet isn't secure enough. They make the sensors quite small, I've seen them half the size of a USB drive, and the activator part even smaller than that--a jelly bean size magnet can do it. You can also interrupt the fuel pump and use a foot switch, or wire it through a switch you don't use. A tiny switch that will fit near the ignition. Wire it through the virgin light switch on top of the steering column, etc. One person in a similar thread suggested getting a switch from a car with an option yours doesn't have--heated seats, or something like that, and wire it through that...lots of options.

Check the hoses feeding the water pump. It's a different seating mechanism, but the physics still applies. If air is getting sucked in and beat into a froth by the impeller, you'll get the same symptoms. Replacing hoses is way cheaper and easier than doing a head gasket, and has to be done even if you do end up doing the heads. And can be re-attached, unlike a gasket. If you replace the hoses and discover the problem still isn't solved, replace the water pump gasket. Then if it's not fixed, the head gaskets. With something as pita and expensive as heads, start with the cheap fixes first as you'll still have to do them either way--and they may end up fixing the problem!

It's an EA81...? Time for me to go eat some shame pie. I read your OP with a GL in it and jumped to EA82. I'm going to go put my face in my hands over there --> (Still wouldn't hurt to check the hoses, though)

I have a solution, but you won't like it. A while ago (two years or so) I locked myself out of my car, and used a wire hangar to get into the car. In the process I managed to disconnect the rod that connects the lock tumbler to the door latch. When I lock the doors, then later return to unlock them, I have to go through the passenger side as the key turns but the tumbler is not connected to anything. I just reach across and hit the button to unlock, then walk around. To do this intentionally, it is relatively simple to remove the panel inside the door and use a pliers or screw driver to reach through one of the holes inside the door and pop the rod off the tumbler. You could also wire a switch into the electric lock/unlock switch (assuming your driver side door lock has this option) and hide the switch outside somewhere, or to a remote unlock. Then break a key off into the lock, or otherwise jam the tumbler so a key can't get into it, but it will still turn when the switch is activated. My other ideas are somewhat less practical, but here goes nothing: Or break a key off in the lock in such a way that inserting the other half allows will work the lock, but a complete key will not. Alternatively (and with only slightly more work) you may be able to swap the tumbler (passenger side too, if you can) for one from another make--take one from a ford or something that uses a different key style altogether. (Ford has offset edges on their keys, where Subarus only have a groove in the keyshaft). I haven't heard of anyone doing this, but in theory it is possible.

What desertsubaru said. The big radiator hose that connects to the pipe is the one that feeds the water pump. The o-ring that seats it in the water pump is what you need to check, as you noted. The other hose I mentioned is quite a bit narrow (maybe 1/2" diameter, I forget, but it's not big) and very short, only about four inches long. It makes the bend around the top of the motor, connecting the water jacket on the front of the motor to a long skinny pipe that runs under the intake manifold back to the heater core. This little hose is hard or impossible to see with the alt and a/c in place, which is why I recommended you check it while you have the accessories removed. From what it sounds like you are looking at the right thing, or at least in the right area, so keep going in this direction and you should come out ok.

I do know transmissions (d/r, at least) off EA turbo models will have different axle stubs than the non-turbo ones. 25 vs 23 splines iirc. While you can swap the axles out easily enough, there is also a different gearing ratio in the turbo ones that won't play nice with your rear diff, but I don't remember the details. Do a search? I know the answer is on the site because I asked a similar question last fall when I was preparing for the d/r swap, and someone responded with a very specific answer.

The pipe runs between the radiator and the water pump. Just a hair (ok, several hairs) past its seat in the motor is the impeller for the water pump. When it turns, it can suck air past the seal if that seal is poorly seated or is cracked/compromised. This can cause fizziness, trapped air, decreased pressure, etc that can lead to the symptoms you described. Not saying it IS the O-ring, but it's a way cheaper and easier repair than a head gasket, and one that should be done even if you DO do the head gasket. And if it fixes the problem, then you've saved yourself a headgasket job . The O-ring can be had at most any parts store. I'm uncertain about what would happen with one from a hardware store. The inside diameter is easy to figure out, but I'm not sure how to determine which ACE variety seal would have the proper outside diameter. While you're down there, there is a short (four inch) piece of hose that connects the a long pipe coming off the heater core to another pipe on the front of the motor (smaller diameter than the one previously mentioned). If you're taking the alt and a/c off anyway, it wouldn't hurt to replace that hose so you don't have to do it all again in two weeks.

With the 2.2 you do have more displacement, but the Loyale is lighter by a margin your average 2.2 body, and the motor runs (somewhat) more efficiently all things factored in (the ratios, not the actual numbers). So it works out to be about the same mileage wise--a bigger motor that uses more overall gas, but in a lighter vehicle and running more efficiently than the original motor. At least that's my understanding of things, I could be off by a bit.

Before you go tearing into the head gaskets, check a couple other things first. 1--Do you have coolant pooling or dripping anywhere from/onto/into places that are outside the motor? Can you see coolant where it isn't supposed to be? (Namely inside the motor). If you see puddling coolant, replace the hoses in the vicinity. Even if you don't see coolant puddling, fill the system to capacity and SQUEEZE (or get a pressure test) the heck out of the big hoses to see if anything leaks out anywhere around the motor. There are hoses at the back, too, on the intake manifold--check those as well. 2--As you stand facing the car, there are two big hoses that come off the radiator. The one on the right, near the filler cap, connects to a metal pipe that turns and runs under the alternator and a/c condensor. There is an O-ring on the end of this pipe that, when it fails, can (among other things) cause precisely the symptoms you are describing--alkaseltzer and occasional overheating. 3--If you don't see any coolant hanging out where it shouldn't be, undo the a/c condenser and alternator. Undo the hose to the pipe mentioned in number two. You will see the bolt holding the pipe mentioned in number two, take that out as well. Remove the pipe and replace the O-ring. Installation is the reverse of removal. If these two things don't work, you may have to do the head gaskets--but here's the good news: even if you DO end up doing the headgaskets, you already have new hoses and O-ring, all of which you would had to have replaced anyway! Ps--wouldn't hurt to replace the radiator cap while you're in there, but that is not the cause of your current problem. Just a useful afterthought. If

Besides the videos MilesFox mentioned (they are excellent), search the forum--this is probably the second most commonly asked question after 'replacing head gaskets'. There are always specific questions to ask, but a few minutes reading through similar threads will expand your knowledge much more quickly than waiting for replies will. (The search can be found near the 'log out' button up near the top, by your user name and stats). Happy hunting, and as always, ask questions about things you don't find.

You don't want the bearings replaced while you're in there? You should be able to buy just the plate at any parts store, and the bearings separately, no pressure plate.

Awesome /me makes a note

My best guess would be that the drain plug is stripped and it's not tightening down properly. Or there is a washer on the bolt that is keeping it from tightening properly--the bolt should have no washer whatsoever, it's naked when it's stock. If a thin crush washer doesn't fix the problem, I would try a tap-and-die set on the hole and the bolt, see if that does it! BTW, I agree on the stupid in the parts place--a crush washer is something that should be in stock by the hundreds in all kinds of sizes. They aren't machined specific to a motor the way pumps or valves are--they are, well...they're WASHERS. Anyway, would love to hear the final word when you figure it out.

You may have a bad ground or loose wire somewhere, I would start in the ignition switch. FTR: The car will run with either the battery OR the alternator disconnected, but not both. Don't ask how I know... Btw, the car can drive at least three miles without the alt hooked up and the headlights on. I must have a heck of a battery! It can also drive indefinitely without the battery installed if you jump start it--it gets real fun if you stall it while driving it like this, though. Good luck explaining what happened to whomever you flag down to help you. (Again, don't ask how I know!).

He's not talking about a head bolt as in 'head bolt' that holds the head to the block. He's talking about the drain plug on the bottom of the head, next to the exhaust manifold. A crush washer is a soft metal or plastic washer that will compress slightly and take the shape of whatever it is pushed against. They are commonly used for oil pan drain plugs, transmission drain plugs, coolant in this case... I don't use them on my heads, and haven't had a problem, but I may just be lucky. My oil pan does have one, assuming the oil change guy replaced it last time I went in.

Do you want each passenger to be able to one-click? I'm guessing so based on the conversation. When I first read the thread I thought you wanted your driver door control panel to have each button be one-click, which would be a lot more doable, I think, or at least require less work! Good luck either way, and let us know what happens when you finish.

My transmission (Hi/Lo) came from a sedan, and is now in my Loyale. I'm assuming you have the hi/lo tranny, anyway.

What is your lift/tire-size combo, if you don't mind? I want to lift mine a bit, but the tiny stock tires (I have 14" snows on it right now, not technically stock) I have on it right now look small; I can't even imagine what it would look like with a 2" lift. I also don't want the ginormous offroad-worthy tires that are half the size of the whole car. I like the way the lift and size combine in your pics, while obviously not stock it looks 'right', if that makes sense. Balanced is maybe a better word. It just looks nice .

The seat belt light on my Loyale came on about two months after I bought it, and hasn't turned off since (over three years). As to wrenching, I've gone from being able to point out parts on the motor to being able to repair or replace 99% of stuff. I've also learned a lot (understatement) about where seals/gaskets are located on a motor, what they do, and how to replace them. Timing belts, manifolds...on and on. It's a good car to learn on, not only because it's easy to access and work on, but because the EA82 will always give you things to pay attention to! Most problems won't stop the car from driving, and if you do everything well the first time around you can significantly reduce the chances of a catastrophic failure further down the road.

The input shafts are also different diameters, so you can't just swap flywheel/pressure plate combos.

Do you mean you want the axles to come off the transmission stubs? Or you just want them to no longer be powered when you hit the button? The first...good luck making such a thing. The second you may be able to customize if you pull, split, and work on the transmission yourself (and are comfortable machining your own parts). Wouldn't it just be easier to stick axle stubs in the front hubs, and leave out the arm and DOJ?

Yeah, when I swapped mine last fall I just swapped over the harness. It will disconnect from both trannies and swap over. There will be one or two bits left hanging loose, but as long as the backup-lights work and the 4wd indicator works you're good to go. No worries! Mine wasn't a digi-dash, but as long as the wire mater thingies match up it shouldn't be a problem.

The d/r has a low range, which the push button does not. There is a light on the dash for this, which is probably what the extra wire is for. You should be able to get the 4wd indicator and the reverse lights to work, just the '4lo' light won't turn on without wiring up that last pair of wires. It will still go into 4lo, just won't turn on the indicator light. Nothing to worry about imo. The other wires should connect just fine. It may take a little swapping over of harnesses, but it's nothing you can't do in five minutes.