man on the moon

I really like this idea, and hadn't considered that. Well, I did consider sticking my finger through a hole, but would prefer to avoid THAT option. I mean the pull cable w/ring. Our walk in freezer at work has a similar emergency release in case the power (it's an electronic door) goes out. This would also save the trouble of mounting bulky hardware inside the door...sometimes I over-complicate things, which is why I thought one of you guys might come up with something simple like this I'm going to the junkyard Saturday for some solenoids and other bits and pieces, I'll take a look inside the hatch and get some pictures for you guys. Not going to pop my panel off until I have to! I'm not so worried about getting the parts as making them work. I understand how the release/latch parts work; I'm struggling with getting them to do what I want, when I want, where I want, without breaking anything (including the bank) or having to cut and weld pieces. I'll take a look for these, too.

That's one of the ideas I mentioned, put a handle of some sort in the door itself that will actuate the latch. Correct. I can already manipulate the lock. My lock control is via locking/unlocking the driver door, but same idea. I want to manipulate the latch itself so I can open the hatch without getting out. I'm keeping an eye out for lifters that will do that, but that's a cake-walk compared to re-doing the latch. (I think--chances are that will be the harder part ).

If you haven't already, could you copy your OP into the USMB (appropriate section, of course)? Also: How did you fix the electric lock in the rear? Mine doesn't work, either, I do it by hand every time I need to lock/unlock it, and it hasn't been important enough to make me take the time to mess with taking the door all apart yet. Might be worth it if it's not too involved, though.

Mine also has the electronic lock system, but that only unlocks the door. If it is locked, I can't open the hatch. If it's unlocked, the outside handle will open it. (The key also works--from the outside). I'm looking for a way to actuate the latch mechanism so I can open the door, not just unlock it. (Though I will wire a lock switch to whatever system I end up devising, so I can lock the door while I'm asleep. Since it's electronic, that's pretty basic, and I'm not worried about it.)

Before you hit respond and say "search", I did. I got a few ideas, but I'm fishing for more, or whether anyone has done this before and has a good idea. Backstory: I occasionally spend time sleeping in my car camping/road-trips, or in the back for other reasons (aka I'm loading up the back and the hatch closed on me) and every single time, without fail, I open the passenger door and climb out, muttering cursewords. Doesn't matter if the rear seat is up or down, it's a real bother and occasionally requires some serious acrobatics. And every time, I say to myself: "Self, wouldn't it be nice if you could just open the hatch from the inside and save yourself this trouble?" So this winter I've been putting my mind to it. I'm pretty sure Subaru never made a remote/inside release for the older models (and I haven't looked in newer ones). Here's what I've come up with: The sedan versions had a trunk release that operated on the same lever as the fuel filler door. However, I don't care to route a release cable with the proper tensioning through my ceiling, to the hatch door, around the glass, to the release. Talk about a pita. Get an electric door unlocker thing-a-ma-bob from a random car/minivan and install it inside the hatch. Route a wire to the switch(es). I could put a switch on the hatch itself or nearby (preferably somewhere my dog won't hit it/a load won't shift onto it. Maybe in the same assembly as the rear cargo light I'm thinking of installing?). Could put another switch up front somewhere (say wired to an XT difflock switch). The hatch doesn't have to open on it's own, I just want to unlatch it. Opening would be nice but I'll settle for fewer acrobatics until I find door struts that will both fit and lift. Cut out a section of the door panel and install a handle similar to what is on the passenger doors. Run a short cable or rod to tie in to the thingy the outside handle actuates when it unlatches the door. I'm going to keep thinking about this and toying with ideas, but that's what I have so far. If you have suggestions, brain farts, or have done it to a wagon I'd love to hear!

Does the engine have a VIN printed on it, either as a sticker or scratched in? That's the only real way to tell. Don't know if Subaru did in the earlier models, but a lot of makes sold in the states have them on the motor.

Went drift busting in the parking lot after work. Put it in 4-lo and surprised the sh*** out of the guy I carpool/give rides to. That was fun and the look on his face was priceless. Then I couldn't get it out of 4-lo for the life of me. On ice, snow, dry pavement, reverse, straight, turning, clutch in, clutch out, NOTHING. Stuck in 4-lo. Started a slow drive home (as an aside, I learned just how "low" the lo gears are!) when I remembered that about two weeks ago I was fiddling with the linkage. Pulled into a gas station and...yep, sure enough. The nut holding the 4/fwd selector had vibrated off, and the bolt had backed out about half way. So much for putting it on finger tight the next time . I'm planning to swap the shifter handle as soon as this damn snow melts which is why I didn't tighten it fully. So I get to my friend's house and decide...huh, maybe I should check the *gear selector* as well. I was messing with that, too...and yeah. No nut. Fortunately that bolt didn't back out on me, and I found another nut to replace the one that is somewhere between here and there. Drift busting was fun, learning I could have 'stranded' myself for stupid reasons...still worth it

A free "I broke it I fix it" is a good thing. Hopefully he gets it right!

Wow, a full year? That's impressive! I have to take you at your word (sounds a bit far-fetched, but I wouldn't know either way), but I'm happy to hear it's more or less working out. Not gonna jump and do it myself, but...I'll keep it in mind should I ever be in a pinch.

That is a really easy fix. How did you get her home? An awesome car for almost no work (on your part).

Maybe he's too embarrased? Or forgot? I'm curious, too. Almost want to buy a cheap (<$500) car, put new hoses on it, and try this out. Not with a subie...an old beater of some sort, though!

If you remove the clutch fan, be sure to leave the pulley as it also drives the water pump, which is a slightly important piece! You could probably swap in a second electric fan and wire it to run while the car is on, or wire it to run when the thermostat opens (tap in to the temp sensor) or by a switch...lots of options.

The electric fan is also wired to come on when your engine temp starts to climb, regardless of the a/c status. Mine wouldn't come on until I was flirting with the red zone, so I cut the wire from the in-rad temp sensor (near the fan there) and wired it to a switch in the cabin that I can reach while I'm driving. Eventually I took the fan out completely because it was making a lot of noise when it turned on, but I don't recommend it. I haven't needed it (yet), but it doesn't mean I won't.

The local Pull 'n Pay yards will sell entire cars. If you can catch them quick enough you may even be able to drive one out of the yard before it goes up on welded hubcaps. This link is the one in Aurora, but you can also pull up the one in Denver, and one in the Springs. http://www.upullandpay.com/aurora/home There is a 'notifiy me' button where you can request to be notified if a particular car comes in.

Your username is Justy, but the thread title says Loyale, I based the location of the speedo on a Loyale, not sure where it is on a Justy.

Something quick and easy you can do is check the transmission end of the cable is all the way in. It plugs into the tranny on the passenger side, just behind the axle and about 3/4 of the way up to the top (where the axle is only 1/2 way between top and bottom, or so). If it is there, make sure it's not caught or pulled somehow, and no clean threads are showing which might indicate it's backed out somewhat. It has a plastic housing with a 17mm wrench grabby face. The cable has a lot of play in the engine compartment, follow it to make sure it's not caught on something. It could have been pulled and popped out of the back side of the instrument cluster. Does it show any sign/mark of being pulled where it goes into the firewall? (Shiny spot, grease mark, change in color, etc) Does your tach, fuel gauge, voltmeter, oil pressure, etc still work? And odometer? If only the odometer and speedo is broken...

This just kicks a** (The beer is for after you get home)

Got a deal on snow tires today. Four of them. Even with normal tires she did great (well, with the 4wd on), regularly drove through plow drifts without blinking, ice, snow, hills, etc. But stopping was always an adventure. Now I can do all I could before in 2wd, including the 20" drifts the plow puts up in front of the parallel parking spots in front of my building. This means I ALWAYS get a parking spot when it snows and for a week afterward. And I can stop!

oops, double post, please delete!

I found a good deal on snow tires at Discount Tire, so I jumped. Wow! The difference is night and day. The car barely noticed the snow before, but now... it's amazing. I have a decent amount of cash left over, and I'm seriously considering this metal thing, but I'll have to read more about it. A house for 500 ounces sounds a little far fetched, but I wouldn't mind having something on hand for small emergencies or savings. I'll read up and see what happens!

:-p

I'll check it out next weekend (off Friday and Saturday, so no tomorrow). That will give me some time for reading up on the subject as well. Why? Or wait for it to go up more?

Correct, if just the rotor has a problem, the coil will still spark. Been there, done that, paid $250 to find out it was a $10/10minute job. I add a vote to there being a problem with the belt. Even a loose rotor will turn a bit, though it may not start the car. (That, in fact, is why I took it to a mechanic--I checked that the rotor moved, but never fingered it). A non-turning rotor means the disty isn't turning, which means either the worm gear at the bottom is *completely* stripped, or the belt is gone--and considering it died while otherwise fine I go for the belt. When mine broke I didn't hear any noise, just sudden silence and lots of lights on the dash.

I had to pay my phone bill last night. Because my smart phone was stolen and I regressed to a not smart phone, my bill was reduced...except it wasn't. I think I'll buy tires next week with what I have left . I do like the idea of a class, though I think that will have to wait, and maybe I'll do the lift and 22 at the same time so the car is only out of comission once, rather than twice. And buy some silver or bonds or something--it's such a small amount (long-term) that it seems pointless, but I guess I have to start somewhere

Sweet . Progress is always best shared, imho.