man on the moon

FTW Maybe I'll sand off the 4wd emblem and put one on that says something along that line. Don't mind playing with the fit a bit. I noticed the top portion of the handle is held on by a pin, so I'm guessing the assembly comes apart with a little persuasion and I can figure something out to get it working. I'll cut a slit in the skirt for the 4wd handle. I'm debating whether to cut a slot in the original metal floor piece, too, but im going to wait and see whether the skirt leaves a gap or not. Miles: are you saying it IS a switch that is always on, or it can be wired that way?

Denver, near downtown, car died while I was moving so I ended up staying. She's running now, though not without a mystery our two and a few headaches along the way. Do you have a subaru shop, Shawn? In the last six months I've had once mechanic screw up, a dealer tell me I've done too much and they can't touch the car, and another scolfded me for it not being stock, though the last one was willing to do the work. I do a lot of my own work, but it's not easy with street parking.

Denver, near downtown, car died while I was moving so I ended up staying. She's running now, though not without a mystery our two and a few headaches along the way. Do you have a subaru shop, Shawn? In the last six months I've had once mechanic screw up, a dealer tell me I've done too much and they can't touch the car, and another schools me for it not being stock, though the last one was willing to do the work. I do a lot of my own work, but it's not ready with street parking.

Wait and use it to actuate air ride shocksif I ever get around to installing some.

I just did a 5sp/dr swap. The new shifter is brown, my car interior is blue. I am thinking of putting just the push button shifter handle back on so it looks as close to oem as possible, and toying around with things I can connect to the button now that I don't need it anymore. So far I have: Driving lights Spotlight/offroad lights Noise maker Keyless starter button Interior light (stock or cargo light) Rear hatch opener (would require a motor in the latch) Any other ideas, or anyone done it? If it turns out the shifter won't fit right, the wiring is still in place and it would be nothing to wire up a small switch.

Mine did not work with either capital or lower case letters. I have a copy sitting around from when I bought the car, so I don't have any need beside curiosity. Still cool though

+2 Well done you guys, and thanks for not sliding into a flame war

I think I need to make this two parts, so bear with me. 1. After a week of not hearing from the mechanic, I walked over there to talk to him. He seemed pretty upset with me for not telling him what all I had done to the car. I didn't bother to say the list wouldn't fit on a full page, much less the note card I had written my note/phone number on. He told me the gas is good, and that it is a timing issue. Apparently my rotor was loose and not spinning properly, the cap was burned out, and at least one wire was shot. I saw the cap, couldn't tell with the wire (couldn't see inside the rubber bit). The inside of the cap looked ok, but one of the posts was definitely worthless. I asked him to just get it running, it's going to be about $250 for him to check the timing, the distributor, new wires, new rotor, new cap. I could do it myself for less but I'm not in the mood to mess with towing it back to my place, finding a place on the street where the truck can drop it, etc. 2. Why did I have trouble with the injector? The best I can gather, either I cranked it with the key off ? Or with the battery too low? Some combination? Guess I will have to wait to find out (and I hope it's a long time before I have that trouble again).

This looks so easy I could do it in my studio apartment and install it into the car in a few minutes. I think I'd put the jack on or next to the radio as I have other plans for the ashtray area, but otherwise...wow. Can't wait to hear if it works! Cheers

Idasho: I like that thing a lot. How do you get the aux in to work, is it with stock radio or after market? I think there are a couple ways (I think there was another thread on it even, iirc). ETA: I wish there was an embarrased smiley. Just clicked back over to the main page for the old gen forum and...tada! Turns out the thread I was thinking of is YOURS. And what's more it was (at the time I clicked) the one immediately next to this one...sigh. Someday I will learn!

On rocks and trees and things I do wrap three, pull two. In this case we did something similar but clipped it together with a carabiner and clipped that to the tow hook. Total of five anchors--four tow hooks and the support pillar. We did use water knots . Anything else is either death by falling (failed equipment/untying while on rope), or death by driving yourself crazy untying the damn things afterward, depending on what knot you use. The plastic piping is just a rope protector so it doesn't rub on the rock over the edge. It was fun times

It's hard to tell from the picture, but we used all four tow points for a total of five anchor points in case one pulled off (they were all solid, but if your life is on the line I prefer safe over sorry if the resources can be had).

I wonder if you could have bound up the crankshaft pulley and stalled the motor? Or bent one of the fans enough to get wedged between the belt and the crankshaft pulley? It is entirely possible the engine itself is bent, but my gut (not that it means anything) is guessing something is binding her up from outside the motor, rather than you having bent the crankshaft or something. How fast were you going?

I completely forgot about this. I was going to say it was three years ago, but I've only had her three years so...two and change? Took a little trip up the coast from Santa Cruz where I lived at the time, found a nice wide pull off and parked sidewise to the cliff (and well back, and behind a berm, and chocked the wheels): Some nice solid anchors to hold the rope: For a rappel down the cliff face: To better explore the rarely visited secluded beaches and tidepools at the bottom: That was a sweet trip we could not have done without the closed tow loops and solid upright (it holds seatbelts, it can't be too weak) to tie off of. OK, we could have done it, but may not have lived to tell about it if we had lacked those things.

Can you reach your hand in that gap on the right side (as seen from the front)? If so, you may be able to undo the hinge bolts on that side and twist things enough to get the whole thing up. There are two 12 mm (I think 12mm) bolts. Is the hood release cable not releasing? If it does you won't have to unbolt anything, just have to be persuasive and maybe pry a bit with a screwdriver.

You can work the lock barrel with a coat hanger. Slide a hanger (straightened w/a hook on the end) between the window and the weather stripping. Work the barrel. Easiest done before you lock yourself out... Alternatively, hide a key on the car somewhere (I use a carabiner to hold it to the fuel line and tuck it behind the fuel pump, or clip it to the turn signal cable and stuff it in the front of the frame somewhere). Or, this car has an electric lock, tap into that and hide a switch... Sorry, couldn't help teasing. Last time I locked myself out I knocked the rod between the lock barrel and the latch off its mounts. Still haven't fixed that, I go in through the passenger side . Had to call AAA to help me that time.

Can you point me in the general direction of these cooling system filters? At the moment mine is 'ok' (well, no, but it's not 'bad', either. yet.), but I briefly owned another Loyale I picked up for $300 because the radiator blew a hole. I stuck it up with bubble gum and drove it home, patched it with JB weld after what seemed like a week of flushing it out with cleaner/stuff and a hose. The overflow tank required solvent, it was so bad. The narrow hose feeding the overflow tank was sufficiently plugged to require my calling on a straightened coat hanger. I ended up using the rad out of my previous/current Loyale as I wasn't driving it for a while, the one in the 'new' car was so gnarly. Anyway, I want to get this car nowhere NEAR that bad if you might be so kind as to gesture in a general direction of where to get this filter! In the meanwhile, google is my friend, I guess.

If the engine runs normally while the bump is happening it is probably not a misfire of any kind (speaking to the choir, sorry). Also good news: awesome to hear the tires WERE the skipping problem and that it is now rolling happily. Even if it turns out to be not important, I would point out the fresh wrench marks and torn boot to Big-O and ask for something back, or for it to be repaired. Some customer service things just aren't worth wasting time on, but something like this is worth pointing out to the manager even if all that happens is you prevent the next customer from having the same experience. If the manager is worth their salt they will want to keep customers coming back, not driving them away (or limping them away in your case). As for the boot, I know which one you mean but I'll have to let someone else answer what it is for.

I was going to say slap some JB Weld or a bolt in there if you MUST drive, but that would only be delaying the inevitable (and probably make things much, much worse). Money says you're going to have to replace the head, sorry

No, that makes sense...as long as it works!

Details! I am interested in this too, I just have done absolutely nothing in terms of researching or gathering parts.

Ok, my question was whether AT/MT were the same axle shafts (yes to that one, too), but yes, they are the same length and mix and match being identical parts.

Yes. I just asked this question and did the job not two weeks ago . Order two of the same part and it'll work like a charm. (Just make sure to get the roll pin holes lined up or you're in for a treat/*************** doing the job).

That makes sense. I saw just from eyeballing that they are more or less teh same except for having the coolant port tapped out on the passenger side (for the intake). Not familiar with turbo heads, but the oil thing I can see, too. I was picturing heads on upside down or something.

What Miles Fox said. That hole should bottom out with a dead end, or open to the air (to drain) but should not be open to the cylinder or valves at all. If it is I'm going to recommend a new head .