man on the moon

I would be interested in one, especially if it runs. Not in a hurry to tow it to Colorado...though I may consider renting a trailer if the body is good and the price is low... I can't really afford another car, but a 360 van would be worth the trouble for me as I do a lot of traveling and could almost live out of it (save on hotels and campgrounds, and trouble getting/sneaking the dog in places).

Having spares along counts, I just hate having to make two trips to the store for the same part twice in three weeks.

I like things to wear equally. Tires, lights, belts, hoses...there is nothing that bugs me more than going to the store and buying one hose; then going back two weeks later to buy another one. Or light. Especially timing belts--at least the other things you can sorta kinda limp home with (depending on what/how bad they are), but I can't imagine what the PO was thinking "oh I'll just replace the belt that broke after I get it towed home/to the shop"; knowing full well that s/he would have to tow it AGAIN in a few weeks or months because they didn't change BOTH belts. That just strikes me as dumb. And yes, I expect that if you know enough to change the belts correctly, you know enough to tell if they need replacing, or at least that if one breaks *the other might too!*. Just my two cents. Oh, and the headlights are a cinch on the Loyale. Just...if one goes out chances are good the other will soon...just save yourself a trip to the store and buy both even if you don't install both at the same time.

The head gaskets are not too expensive, but remember you'll also have to pick up intake manifold gaskets, exhaust gaskets, I'd recommend changing all your hoses and o-rings while you're in there...you can buy a full gasket kit for $200-$250, shop around online or ask at your local Napa/AutoZone. If you don't mind doing the work yourself, this (and getting the heads milled) will be the limit of your expenses.

Brilliant thread . And lots of lawls. When I first got the loyale a lot of sh...stuff went down. It was great. Then I got it home and realized the odometer didn't work. That was the same trip home in which my nice windshield got a crack in it from a pebble kicked up from a passing truck (going the other way, not passing me). Oh, and a radiator hose burst...what a hell of a ride. But this is about stupid s**t the PO did. Within a week of getting home one headlight went out so I went to get a replacement. S/he had only replaced one (the other was new, brand new...I replaced both.). A few months later it was time for the timing belts. Bet you can't guess how many were replaced? I did two, I'll give you a hint--the PO had only replaced half that many. Oh, and the radiator was bashed in on the driver side. Not broken, just the fins smashed down in the vicinity of the fan. I was at a loss to explain this until I took the radiator out for a flush and fix. From what I can gather, the PO had taken it out, too, but when he put it back in THEY DIDN'T PUT IT IN ITS MOUNTS. I should clarify, the lower mounts were correct, but I think the guy didn't push the top down and under the upper mount, so it was just resting on the hoses. And the fan. Then they turned the motor over, heard grinding (from the fan whacking the radiator). They then wrestled the radiator in properly, but never fixed the smashed in fins...

Glad to hear the car got home, and most of the leak is fixed! The continuing part may be the camshaft seal...it is close to the headgasket and can look like it (as well as like the valve cover gasket), since it drips behind the timing belt cover. For this one you do have to remove the timing belt covers and belt or belts depending which side it's on, but the valve cover and everything else can stay in place. Actually, loosen the three bolts (10mm I think) on the timing belt pully/wheel. Use the belt to hold the thing in place while you loosen the screws. Then take the belt off, remove the wheel the rest of the way. You should then be able to remove the cover that the wheel is mounted on, and change the seal inside. As Chilton's says, replace in the opposite order...and don't worry, the timing belts on this car are a cinch, a quick search through the forum should find a dozen threads on how to do it (it's a 30 minute job if you count the time it takes to drink a beer afterward). Here's hoping it's this and not your headgasket.

My .02: I love my Loyale. Mine is fuel injected, no turbo. I wouldn't touch the turbo (I have enough heating problems as it is) though. It has some tight clearances around the valve covers, but is not at all hard to work on.

Hadn't thought about the rear main. I do plan to change the clutch plate, though, and work out linkage kinks (mine is very loose at the moment).

I have a receipt so I can swap for any other transmission I want at the junkyard, no extra cost to me besides the time.

:0 I had no idea...which is why I asked. 91Loyale just increased my knowledge substantially. Thank you. Would it be better, then, to go with a d/r out of a wagon despite the less appealing asthetics? Less work and more benefits?

Head gaskets aren't too bad on this car. You can get the heads done at a decent machine shop, and any you get at a junkyard will probably have overheated at least once (you don't know at the junkyard). As for the OP, I plan to spray bed liner on mine--tape/paper the sidewalls and windows, then bed liner on the bed. Just have to get the crap out of the back and the motivation to do it on the same day. Oh, and don't forget whatever you do to keep the fuel gauge sender accessible. You want to reach that if anything ever happens to it, and pulling up the bed liner is not at the top of my honey-do list.

Later I will be swapping the motor for a 2.2, but right now it's only the transmission. Both cars produce the same part number when you try to pick up a clutch, so I am not too worried about the motor side of things. The shaft should fit fine. Later when I do the 2.2 swap the flywheel bolt patterns do have to be changed, though. Is that what you're talking about? EA82 transmission have the same mate set up to the motor afaik (the XT does have a different pressure plate, but I'm going to keep mine for the moment and the shaft opening is big enough it won't be a problem). It's more the other stuff that does vary between the cars--distance between the end of the transmission and the rear diff, axle spline counts, that sort of thing.

The donor car was a Turbo XT with optional 4wd (pull the lever up). It was NOT full time, I'm pretty sure. It does have a switch next the the 2/4 selector labeled "differential lock" if that makes a difference. Afaik the transmission is a 5 sp d/r, though it's not labeled. It has the same linkage setup as the DL/GL d/r trannies I've seen. The turbo was missing but I checked the exhaust and found the air routing stuff on there/the engine intake, just the turbo itself was gone. I could go back and check the taillights if you need more. My car is a '91 Loyale wagon with a push button 5 speed.

I am ready to swap my push-button 5 speed for a dual range 5 speed. I just have a question before I do that. I pulled a transmission out of an XT a couple weeks back, because I like the shifter handle better than the one on the DL/GL. I have wrenches, and a jack and stands and a place to do the work. I just need to reassure myself that it will fit. --The drivetrain on a Loyale...will I need to shorten or lengthen it? --Will the axles fit? (Are the splines and lengths a straight swap/match). I wouldn't worry from another wagon, but I'm not familiar enough with the XT to know these tiny but important details. I don't want to get knee deep into swapping this thing to find out the tranny I got won't work. Call me yellow, but I'd rather get the right one the first time! Thanks for any responses.

You could always take the locking mechanism out and wire a finger operated switch somewhere...

Be prepared to do some cutting and welding, if I understand things correctly. I inquired about this very thing to a local Subaru specialist/mechanic guy here in Denver a few months ago. I wanted to knock out the second light and put in a set of offroad lights in the cavity, but same difference. Anyway, he told me Subaru changed the shape and size of the headlight body between the GL/DL, and Loyale...I haven't messed around at the junkyard to see if they will swap, but just eyeballing it I have the gut feeling he's right. Worth keeping in mind/checking out before you get too far into it. And if it works I will be your biggest fan , and will be right behind you to do it.

I found this on Craigslist last month. I haven't heard back from the guy, but I've seen the ad a few times over the last few months so it may still be available. I want it...but don't have a spot for it unless I can do something quick to get it moving (I only have street parking). Oh, let me get the link while I'm here: http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/2415811191.html He says it doesn't have the original motor or trannie, no word on whether there is something else in there (I'm thinking not). Are these vans like VWs with rear engines? And if so, how on earth could I go about putting something bigger in there? I suppose I could persuade an E series of some sort on there (81? 82? something else?) with an appropriate transmission, but how would you get a rear facing set up to make the vehicle go forward, instead of backwards? Other than this I don't mind parking it while working on glass, lights, etc--it just has to roll on request or it may get towed. Or is it a front mounted set up with lots of space in the rear? If that's the case I'll slap something in it and get it going and worry about details later. And if I don't pick it up, does someone here want it?

To be the noisy guy in the corner, check all your vacuum lines. I just did my timing belts (driver side broke, what a coincidence! anyway). In getting around the motor I apparently undid a couple vacuum lines to make room for...I don't even remember anymore. Or maybe I was taking the air intake off the injector to check for fuel and didn't reconnect the vacuum lines after...I don't remember. Anyway, point is to check that there are no loose wires or vacuum lines hanging out waiting to be reconnected. Had similar symptoms--laggy, luggy, flat spots...took me a week of the same "d* it, I KNOW the cams/belts are RIGHT this time!" to realize I'd forgotten this simple thing. And as Miles said, it's easy to misjudge the driver side cam if you are doing it in the car (especially if you leave the radiator in). Might want a mirror and flashlight.

After reading this thread again I realize I copied/repeated the ecu code thing in my earlier post...apologies to those who had to read it from multiple posters. But now for something entirely different. A couple people have mentioned the disty... My Loyale has had similar problems the last month or so. It would start, run rough. Not start. Start, run, die. Frustrating. Took it to a shop eventually (long story) which replaced the rotor and declared it fixed. It was better, but not great, so I replaced the whole distributor, we'll see how that goes. Give your rotor and cap a shot, and new spark plug wires (also check the plugs if you haven't already). It's a cheap, simple thing if you have a few bucks and access to a parts store or online shopping. Also check all the sensor wiring related to the fuel injector, distributor, etc--besides stripped insulation, a plug may have come loose from time and vibration. It doesn't cost anything except time to check those.

When there are multiple possibilities for fixing a car/motor, I always vote to try the cheapest and simplest possibility first, or at least the free ones, assuming they can't hurt/cause worse damage. If it works, you're good, if not--you have lost nothing but time and possibly gained some good info/crossed something off the list, so here is my two cents: Separate the wiring plug thing that comes from the crank angle sensor in the distributor (the only wire not related to the plugs/coil). Blow it out with air, maybe even let it sit overnight. check that none of the wires are melted together either inside or just outside/between the plug and the harness. Check inside the connector again that there are no bits of crud built up, or di-electric grease, or, or, or. From this plug I think the wires run to the ECU, but I am not sure (just eyeballing a wiring diagram, but haven't crawled under the dash). Most wires under your hood are unique color patterns (though you may already be aware of that). Use this, and a Chilton's or Haines and a multi-meter to chase the wires and hunt for your short if it is not actually at the plug. If it is or was wet inside, you may have had a short circuit at some point. Not sure how water would have gotten IN their in the first place, but that's one of those questions that is so stupid you can't ignore it--the universe is a funny place. In reality it's probably something else (especially if you're losing battery) but this will at least let you cross a simple check list item off the list of possibilities.

As for the putting it in part, my apartment only has street parking. I've done a lot parked on the street--timing belts, distributor, clutch (engine forward), engine swap (well, tore it out, shoulda put it in, too but got a 24 hour tow threat so I towed it to the garage), exhaust, fuel pump... Not sure I'm ready to go after a tranny swap on the street, though. Would need someone to put it in, and if not I'll find a shop in town. I have suspected the trannies are built to last, I will probably skip the rebuild. The push button one works fine, but I want the d/r as I am building this into something for ghost towning and other similar adventures, and want the added benefits of the d/r for the times it's needed. I don't have the equipment to do the rebuild (or a place). Mine has over 200k and doesn't bat an eye, even when I slid on ice and jammed up the wheel for a few weeks (it was up in the fender, hard. Had to put the donut in to get her home). As long as the transmission isn't the reason the car is at the yard...should be ok, yeah? Also: the XT d/r is 4 hi/low, right? not just fwd/4wd? It had three positions, but unlike the d/r machines I've seen in GLs and DLs, etc, the XT select lever is not labeled (on the one I saw), but has three positions I assume are 2/4/4low. I really like that set up vs the other ones if it will work .

I should also note that while the A/C compressor is in place, the A/C itself is drained and disconnected (minus some oil and plugs in the compressor), so there is almost no extra load from it on the solo belt. If I ever get around to turning the thing into an onboard air system I will probably put the other belt back on.

I am in Denver, CO, US. After much ado this winter with registration and repairs, I have a few bucks and want to move on getting a dual-range 5 speed swapped in. I currently have a push button 5sp. The pull-n-pays have several of varying ages, styles, and mileage, but I don't have a lift or any way to get the tranny out of the donor car. I'm willing to help, and have a small bag of tools (box end, ratchets, torque wrench, breaker bar, etc), just can't do it myself. Pull-n-pay said their mechanic can get it out for an additional $100 for me, which I *may* do, but I would as soon put a dollar (or $99) in a neighbor's pocket--plus, having no way to get the tranny out means I also have no way to get it INTO my car...if you can do both I would be happy to throw in some cash and beer. I am also considering having it rebuilt, but I don't expect anyone to do that for me, though if you can/know someone who can that would be great, too.

Ok, did it. Put in a new disty. The coolant sensor was fine when I checked it a few weeks ago (I had forgotten about that) for another thingymajig I was curious about. Didn't get around to the coil thingy, but the rough/dying idle was happening irregularly--sometimes when the motor was warm, sometimes when it was cold, so I passed. It almost died on me twice in the same trip, even--once when starting out (cold), and once when I was almost to my destination (hot). This morning I took a deep breath and swapped in the disty I got off the other Loyale I mentioned. Put the new rotor on first, that was wise, I think. Fired her up--runs! Adjusted the timing and the clutch, now to drive her for a few days and see if the problem resolves itself, or continues. Guess I'll be back if the problem continues (and it doesn't end up being foul plugs or something).

After the last time I did the head gaskets, I decided I didn't want to mess with all the bolt-on-top-of-the-engine stuff, so I just adjusted them slightly, and now everything (including the fan/water pump) runs on just one belt. It's way easier to do...well, pretty much anything motor related! I just loosen the alternator and the belt slides off, and I get work done! I'll take a picture next time I'm out at the car.