man on the moon

No, it's simpler than that. No code reader necessary. If you are plugging and unplugging the wire harnesses from the ECU you are already there, just need to know what to look at. Look at the long edge of the ECU that would be facing the steering wheel if it were bolted up under the dash (I'm assuming you unbolted it). There is a little hole with a red LED in it. The LED will blink codes at you. Crank the engine, then let the key sit in the 'run' position (though it isn't running) and count the blinks. My memory could be faulty, it's been a while since I used the plug thingies. If no codes blink, look under the hood near the starter/coil/firewall. Should be a green and a white set of plugs, unconnected. Connect the green ones together (or is it the white ones? try both). One locks the timing so you can set it. The other puts the ECU in a test sort of mode thing. If you didn't previously get codes, yuo will after connecting the plugs. Just make sure to disconnect them before driving.

I am always for checking the simpler things first. If you haven't used the squirt-squirt in a while (another technical term) the hose could be clogged. Check that your lines aren't plugged or funny colors. Maybe hold them under a dripping faucet to see if water runs through. When I got the car I actually had to put the squirt heads in hot water for a while to degunk them, then use the fine wire. They come out if you turn them sideways (look at them from inside the hood, it will make sense). Did the same with the hose. No sense taking a fender off if it's just a hose...and you now know how to remove the fender if it is the pump!

Check whether the ECU is throwing a code, and report back what it is blinking at you. It will be a series of long and short blinks. Long blinks have a tens-place value, short ones a ones-place value. Eg three long blinks and three short would be "33". This will tell more than anything else, short of checking whether the timing belts are intact. Check whether the timing belts are both intact (there are little viewing holes in the cover, just pull the rubber plug out). Poke at the belts with your finger. There are other problems, like a failed rotor; disty problem (sensor?), ...start with the others first.

I've had a few minutes to ruminate. Mechanically I stand by my first answer, but I'll give you some of the other things we don't discuss here too often. I like: The rear seats fold flat if you pull up the bench part. The bed is at least six feet, and comfortable to sleep in. Just don't sit up too fast if you're tall. Rack is cheap and easy to install. I think I paid $50 off craigslist for four towers and two crossbars. Another $50 for the bike thing. I put lots of stuff up there. Never yet gotten stuck in snow, and I've TRIED. Not to say it can't or won't happen, but I've put it to the test more than once. I think the longest it's taken me to get out is two minutes, and I had high-centered (intentionally) on a plow drift in a parking lot. Ditto for going up and down hills in ice/snow, even in worn all-weather tires. The cargo area is big. You can fit a lot of stuff in there. It's easy to work on. All parts of the car are readily accessible with minimal removal of other parts. Maybe an exception or two, but nothing like having to remove the engine to do a spark plug (looking at you, certain American cars). Anything requiring regular or interval maintenance is easily accessed, anything requiring a major project is almost as easy to access I can't think of too many things I don't like. I want more power, but that's fixable (I just haven't done it yet). That's really about it. You'll fall in love with it, so get used to seeing it around

We could write books...might be easier if you ask a few more specific questions to kick start the conversation. What movitivated you to get this car over another? What is your goal with it? How does it run? Notice any odd or curious things with it? It is a lot easier to address specific things, at least at the beginning of a conversation, than to just write rambling randomness. There is also a search function that will bring up lots of other conversations that have happened (or are happening) about these cars, and those are a good start, too.

Awesome. What did it end up being?

Is it a dual range transmission or a push button? There is another, simpler, possibility (though SLCPUDs is more likely).

Tire chains on this car...good grief. Can you climb walls?

It isn't supposed to be much better Wednesday. If anything, it will be worse because the snow will have melted and frozen again...

I was going to take my dog to the mountains today, up to Evergreen (big dog park up there) and work on replacing the vacuum lines on the motor tomorrow...yeah. This is about the fourth day off in a row that's been sixty all week and then snowed when I'm off. Maybe next week?

Overheating can also be caused by a dried out radiator cap seal. It's worth the $5 to replace the cap. If you're losing fluid over time, there may be a leak, but I'd recommend a new cap in addition to the flush/clean suggested in bright blue above.

If you think it may be the mounts, try chocking the wheels, then lay under the front of the car and either move the motor or have someone try to shift it. Look at the mounts and see if they are loose at all. Check the motor side as well as the cross-member side of the mounts. That is the only way to know for sure. Even if they are good, they may still be loose whoever last worked on the car messed with the nuts at all.

If the axles were just replaced, there are a couple possibilities. 1--Something didn't get snugged down enough. Check *everything*. 2--It is not common, but not unheard of for axles to fail out of the box, especially cheap brands. Worth having a second shop check them out. Where are you? Someone on the board can probably do it for you, or recommend you to a shop. People are on here from all over the country/world.

Is the cable attached to the fixed point, as well? The outer sleeve should be in its bracket, in order to provide leverage for pulling the fork. Then the cable, which is inside its 'sleeve' can move and apply force against the fork. Otherwise the whole thing just wiggles around when you push the pedal, but doesn't actually do anything. That is my first recommendation.

True, but I'm guessing he will be swapping things in . Good to know re: EA81 vs EA82 trick, I've wondered about that.

Indeed. The full-time offer is looking pretty good, so I just have to give notice at the other job, by June, maybe? I'm thinking of picking up a bike at a thrift store to ride over the summer. This would give me some time where I don't *need* the car, as long as I stock up on groceries before I put her down for a few days! I don't live a block from the grocery store anymore. Time for an adventure, at last!

Wow! Too many close calls, glad y'all are safe! That hammer is something else! I remember about three years ago now, I came upon a set of tires I wanted on my first Loyale. The $300 Loyale I'd picked up for a second vehicle...alt fried the ECU. Anyway, the tires were one of the many things I took from that car before scrapping her. I parked them back to back in a parking lot to do the wheel swap. Put the scissor jack under the rear diff on each car and just went for it. The second car (trashed one) was fine, it was also empty. Mine was full of stuff and not well balanced, I guess??? Anyway, got the first wheel swapped, no problem. Came over with the second one and..."wut? This tire won't fit...hmm. Put it down, go get the old one I'd taken off. No...wait. This car is getting REALLY CLOSE TO THE PAVEMENT!". I quick stuck the old tire under the frame by the passenger door and about forty seconds later, the entire car was resting on the old tire. Jack was completely bent, and in a bad way. Fortunately I was near a shop and they were kind enough to lend me a wheeled jack to get her back up! That was the last time I used a scissor jack without a backup, even for a tire-change. (I also invested in a small floor jack).

My advice: skip the parts desk altogether until you know the model, year, and options the part you need came with as stock. The more stuff you do to the car, the more you have to know. I recommend writing a list, and add to it every time you do something to the car that involves swapping in parts from another year, make, model, option set, etc. It will eventually save you time, money, and trouble. Even the oil change I got a few weeks back threw the garage guy for a loop since I didn't have the original motor in the car . Ditto with the dealer when I went in with a disty problem a couple years back...he called me up: "Umm, this is a California car, without a California engine..." Just get used to it and have fun

I called it a nut, which there is one. Not a bolt. I stand corrected on the rest. I've never tried reversing them, so it is good to know what would happen if someone did.

The heads are more or less reversible, but you need one that has a thread tapped for the...I want to say coolant return line? Under the EGR valve there is a 17mm nut (not attached to the EGR or intake manifold, it's just in that general area) that does something with coolant, I think it connects the water jacket in the manifold with the engine block water jacket? I'd have to pull it apart again to check. Just keep that in mind in addition to the MPFI vs SPFI motor thing. And don't feel bad. I ordered an entire motor once, and got MPFI instead of SPFI, the shop sent me a refund check that bounced. That sucked and took forever to resolve. These are fairly basic engines, but aren't without a learning curve. Ask lots of questions, and use the search button (upper right on your screen) and you'll get more answers than you can shake a stick at.

Indeed! Money is a bigger issue, and time. For quite a while it was my DD in a 60mile round trip commute. Now I have two part-time jobs, soon I hope just one full time job. Hopefully that change works out and I can give the car some down-time, as well as having some money to work with . I can do some of these things myself, others I'll need help with.

I drove for a few weeks with the Speedo completely disconnected due to it simply being a PITA to screw into the transmission, not to mention it was freezing cold the day I had it apart. The motor does fine, and I didn't notice much difference, if any, in my fuel mileage. At that point I was commuting a moderate distance and would fill up every payday--and I didn't have to fill up any more gas or any more often during the period the ECU was out. Speed may be a minor factor but it's not significant. If I had to guess, the ECU reads engine RPMs and engine load rather than wheel speed to adjust the fuel mixture. The car won't run at all if the crank-angle sensor is disconnected, for example.

I have a '91 Loyale. I have swapped a d/r into it. I'd like a 2" lift, 14" or 15" wheels. Maybe an extra set of lights. A 2.2 motor. Onboard air. A second battery. I think one or two other things (maybe a removable/bolt on full size skid plate, but I'm uncertain there).

I live in Denver. Well, Aurora right now but the job may be moving to the west side of town, etc. Not built for off-road but I'd like to get there. I'm not as interested in conquering the hardest challenge/deepest hole etc as I am in hunting down ghost towns and old mines and the like, which will require at least some modest off-road capabilities. I guess I'm aiming for a reasonable compromise rig. One that can hold its own on the road without losing too much gas mileage, etc; but can still handle some ditches and small logs on the trail, etc.

Regardless, that's pretty awesome . I'll try for it if I know it's possible!